Remote key fob issue SOLVED (UEM reset) 2000 S80 2.4l
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Remote key fob issue SOLVED (UEM reset) 2000 S80 2.4l
Hi!
I've been scouring these forums for a few weeks looking for a solution to my electrical issues. To cut to the chase: on this model, the appropriate reset sequence is
1. Insert key, start the engine
2. lock, unlock, lock, unlock, lock, unlock (using the lock button on the driver's side door - not not the lock ****, the actual button that locks all of the car's doors)
3. turn engine off. The remote fob should work now.
Here's the symptoms I had to aid search engine discoverability:
- remote fob worked intermittently. At times it would work 2,3, even 10 times - and then stop. It wasn't clear if it stopped working for no reason at all or if it was just down to the slightest disturbance in the system. In general it appeared it had the best chances of starting a "period of working" after a long highway drive, and this honeymoon ended once after I unlocked the remote fob to put it back in my keychain (real disappointment there, haha) and once when I changed the air filter (which involved disconnecting and reconnecting the sensor).
- none of the courtesy lights worked
- auto dimming mirror did not work
- battery had been discharged somewhat, I topped it off to no effect (though the 10 times' run did occur following the next long trip after this.... however, on the way back the functioning was not restored).
- a lazy locking sequence when turning the key on the lock
- previous owner had removed the siren fuse. I wonder why.... :D
I tried...
- replacing key fob battery. Many times.
- cleaning every surface of the key fob internals with alcohol and cotton buds. No help, but did really restore the look and feel of the fob, so there's that
- disconnecting the car battery overnight
- disconnecting the car battery while leaving the key in the ignition slot, in pos II, for about 15 minutes, and then reconnecting the battery while the key was in that position (pretty epic sparks, would not really recommend doing it for no good reason)
- using a lab power supply to take the car battery right up to 13.8V over many days of gentle trickle charging
- using the same lab power supply to power the key fob with voltages ranging from the 3V manual specifies to the 3.3V a forum post called out. No effect.
- the UEM reset sequence most readily found on this form - key in pos II, hold windows up buttons for 5-8s, remove key, lock/unlock lock/unlock. Tried this many times, both using the door button and the physical key, just pos II and in engine run, just the 2 lock/unlocks as well as adding an extra 3rd one because some posts suggested 3 of those cycles alone would do a reset. Basically I tried every recombination of these elements on at least 10 different occasions, driving myself slightly mad with these bizarre "magic dances" that feel a lot less like magic when nothing happens :D
- slamming the driver's door shut. A few times. To be sure.
- tapping the mirror where the UEM lives, in case that might wake it up from its slumber. If it works for kids, maybe it....
- knocking the front wheel covers in case the above could apply to the alarm module. And kicking the spot above the gas pedal because some post said there was something related there at least in some cars. Not to mention tapping and knocking anything and everything that looked even vaguely like a black box at the top of the boot, because some guy said there was some transceiver there. And tapping the dash because some other guy said it might live there instead. Yeah, I was getting desperate. Don't pretend you've never been there.
Now....
- the remote works with very reassuring promptness, unlike that which it had before even when it did work
- one of the courtesy lights at the back works. It might be the rest of the bulbs are blown or something else is still amiss
- I have not yet witnessed the auto dimming mirror do anything
- I have not yet reconnected the siren.
- the locking sequence remains "lazy" (first the driver's door, then the rest kind of sluggishly follow) when operated with the key blade.
I'll first give this a few days before that :D. However, I'll post an update here later to document how (and if) this fix held up.
My main reason for this post is documenting the proper reset cycle for this specific make of car - whether it completely addressed my underlying issue remains to be seen.
As background, the car had sat for nearly a year. The battery was measured at 11.5V when I checked, which seemed to start the engine alright but could definitely mess with computers. Consequently my present diagnosis is that this period of low voltage will have screwed with the UEM in a way not solved by fixing the voltage alone - a reset sequence was also needed to get it back on track.
I've been scouring these forums for a few weeks looking for a solution to my electrical issues. To cut to the chase: on this model, the appropriate reset sequence is
1. Insert key, start the engine
2. lock, unlock, lock, unlock, lock, unlock (using the lock button on the driver's side door - not not the lock ****, the actual button that locks all of the car's doors)
3. turn engine off. The remote fob should work now.
Here's the symptoms I had to aid search engine discoverability:
- remote fob worked intermittently. At times it would work 2,3, even 10 times - and then stop. It wasn't clear if it stopped working for no reason at all or if it was just down to the slightest disturbance in the system. In general it appeared it had the best chances of starting a "period of working" after a long highway drive, and this honeymoon ended once after I unlocked the remote fob to put it back in my keychain (real disappointment there, haha) and once when I changed the air filter (which involved disconnecting and reconnecting the sensor).
- none of the courtesy lights worked
- auto dimming mirror did not work
- battery had been discharged somewhat, I topped it off to no effect (though the 10 times' run did occur following the next long trip after this.... however, on the way back the functioning was not restored).
- a lazy locking sequence when turning the key on the lock
- previous owner had removed the siren fuse. I wonder why.... :D
I tried...
- replacing key fob battery. Many times.
- cleaning every surface of the key fob internals with alcohol and cotton buds. No help, but did really restore the look and feel of the fob, so there's that
- disconnecting the car battery overnight
- disconnecting the car battery while leaving the key in the ignition slot, in pos II, for about 15 minutes, and then reconnecting the battery while the key was in that position (pretty epic sparks, would not really recommend doing it for no good reason)
- using a lab power supply to take the car battery right up to 13.8V over many days of gentle trickle charging
- using the same lab power supply to power the key fob with voltages ranging from the 3V manual specifies to the 3.3V a forum post called out. No effect.
- the UEM reset sequence most readily found on this form - key in pos II, hold windows up buttons for 5-8s, remove key, lock/unlock lock/unlock. Tried this many times, both using the door button and the physical key, just pos II and in engine run, just the 2 lock/unlocks as well as adding an extra 3rd one because some posts suggested 3 of those cycles alone would do a reset. Basically I tried every recombination of these elements on at least 10 different occasions, driving myself slightly mad with these bizarre "magic dances" that feel a lot less like magic when nothing happens :D
- slamming the driver's door shut. A few times. To be sure.
- tapping the mirror where the UEM lives, in case that might wake it up from its slumber. If it works for kids, maybe it....
- knocking the front wheel covers in case the above could apply to the alarm module. And kicking the spot above the gas pedal because some post said there was something related there at least in some cars. Not to mention tapping and knocking anything and everything that looked even vaguely like a black box at the top of the boot, because some guy said there was some transceiver there. And tapping the dash because some other guy said it might live there instead. Yeah, I was getting desperate. Don't pretend you've never been there.
Now....
- the remote works with very reassuring promptness, unlike that which it had before even when it did work
- one of the courtesy lights at the back works. It might be the rest of the bulbs are blown or something else is still amiss
- I have not yet witnessed the auto dimming mirror do anything
- I have not yet reconnected the siren.
- the locking sequence remains "lazy" (first the driver's door, then the rest kind of sluggishly follow) when operated with the key blade.
I'll first give this a few days before that :D. However, I'll post an update here later to document how (and if) this fix held up.
My main reason for this post is documenting the proper reset cycle for this specific make of car - whether it completely addressed my underlying issue remains to be seen.
As background, the car had sat for nearly a year. The battery was measured at 11.5V when I checked, which seemed to start the engine alright but could definitely mess with computers. Consequently my present diagnosis is that this period of low voltage will have screwed with the UEM in a way not solved by fixing the voltage alone - a reset sequence was also needed to get it back on track.
Last edited by johannesmajamaki; May 30, 2021 at 04:48 AM. Reason: Added further admissions of.... percussive diagnostic procedures undertaken.
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Hello...Any updates on this odd situation & cure? We have been having exact same symtoms (and then some) w/a 2007 s60. Paid may $$$ to have it scanned but haven't pulled the trigger on a $900+ dollar mirror/install yet. Yes, I have been that desperate & done all magic dances over the last few years...some work temporarily, most just make brain/feet hurt worse. Please update your findings...you are NOT alone...but I feel I am.Thanks
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Hi! Definitely feel for you.
My issue did reoccur, and has become intermittent. I'm really suspecting some kind of a wiring fault somewhere, and have been hunting it down - trying to deduce what circumstances cause it to start/stop working. My latest guesses relate to the boot area.... it doesn't seem like the prime suspect, but I have already gone over the more obvious connections around the front of the car and they are alright. And just recently, while loading a bicycle in the back, functionality was returned. And pretty much everything I have messed with has involved messing with the back, because of the need to disconnect the battery or access some tools I keep there
Bought myself a vida/dice scanner, too. The fault is CEM not communicating with UEM at the worst of time and that communication being faulty at the best of times.
The proper diagnostic procedure according to the programme would be to use some breakout boxes to take resistance measurement of the various circuits, but last time I tried to get those they asked for money... so for now I am looking over the wiring as I am in any case cleaning the car to get rid of the tobacco smell and adding some sound deadening.
My issue did reoccur, and has become intermittent. I'm really suspecting some kind of a wiring fault somewhere, and have been hunting it down - trying to deduce what circumstances cause it to start/stop working. My latest guesses relate to the boot area.... it doesn't seem like the prime suspect, but I have already gone over the more obvious connections around the front of the car and they are alright. And just recently, while loading a bicycle in the back, functionality was returned. And pretty much everything I have messed with has involved messing with the back, because of the need to disconnect the battery or access some tools I keep there
Bought myself a vida/dice scanner, too. The fault is CEM not communicating with UEM at the worst of time and that communication being faulty at the best of times.
The proper diagnostic procedure according to the programme would be to use some breakout boxes to take resistance measurement of the various circuits, but last time I tried to get those they asked for money... so for now I am looking over the wiring as I am in any case cleaning the car to get rid of the tobacco smell and adding some sound deadening.
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Joined: Jul 2021
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Kiitos for the update! I actually tried the reset last night & what do you know...It worked right away! BUT...for how long?
The thing has been doing this for a few years now. And when locks dont work, neither do most interior lights and some other electrics. Also random service messages appear for things that aren't wrong. Then, drive over a bump or honk horn & MAGIC, it works again...but for anywhere for 20 minutes up to a few days...than back to manual key locking and darkness inside. I did have it scanned w/VIDA recently and paid $$$ and the verdict was similar to yours, UEM & Possibly CEM, both would cost around $2400 USD to replace. Gulp.
SO again, wondering how long the UEM reset trick lasts in between dances? If anyone finds any other mysterious fixes for this dilemma, please let us know!
Thanks .
The thing has been doing this for a few years now. And when locks dont work, neither do most interior lights and some other electrics. Also random service messages appear for things that aren't wrong. Then, drive over a bump or honk horn & MAGIC, it works again...but for anywhere for 20 minutes up to a few days...than back to manual key locking and darkness inside. I did have it scanned w/VIDA recently and paid $$$ and the verdict was similar to yours, UEM & Possibly CEM, both would cost around $2400 USD to replace. Gulp.
SO again, wondering how long the UEM reset trick lasts in between dances? If anyone finds any other mysterious fixes for this dilemma, please let us know!
Thanks .
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Hi!
I've been scouring these forums for a few weeks looking for a solution to my electrical issues. To cut to the chase: on this model, the appropriate reset sequence is
1. Insert key, start the engine
2. lock, unlock, lock, unlock, lock, unlock (using the lock button on the driver's side door - not not the lock ****, the actual button that locks all of the car's doors)
3. turn engine off. The remote fob should work now.
Here's the symptoms I had to aid search engine discoverability:
- remote fob worked intermittently. At times it would work 2,3, even 10 times - and then stop. It wasn't clear if it stopped working for no reason at all or if it was just down to the slightest disturbance in the system. In general it appeared it had the best chances of starting a "period of working" after a long highway drive, and this honeymoon ended once after I unlocked the remote fob to put it back in my keychain (real disappointment there, haha) and once when I changed the air filter (which involved disconnecting and reconnecting the sensor).
- none of the courtesy lights worked
- auto dimming mirror did not work
- battery had been discharged somewhat, I topped it off to no effect (though the 10 times' run did occur following the next long trip after this.... however, on the way back the functioning was not restored).
- a lazy locking sequence when turning the key on the lock
- previous owner had removed the siren fuse. I wonder why....
I tried...
- replacing key fob battery. Many times.
- cleaning every surface of the key fob internals with alcohol and cotton buds. No help, but did really restore the look and feel of the fob, so there's that
- disconnecting the car battery overnight
- disconnecting the car battery while leaving the key in the ignition slot, in pos II, for about 15 minutes, and then reconnecting the battery while the key was in that position (pretty epic sparks, would not really recommend doing it for no good reason)
- using a lab power supply to take the car battery right up to 13.8V over many days of gentle trickle charging
- using the same lab power supply to power the key fob with voltages ranging from the 3V manual specifies to the 3.3V a forum post called out. No effect.
- the UEM reset sequence most readily found on this form - key in pos II, hold windows up buttons for 5-8s, remove key, lock/unlock lock/unlock. Tried this many times, both using the door button and the physical key, just pos II and in engine run, just the 2 lock/unlocks as well as adding an extra 3rd one because some posts suggested 3 of those cycles alone would do a reset. Basically I tried every recombination of these elements on at least 10 different occasions, driving myself slightly mad with these bizarre "magic dances" that feel a lot less like magic when nothing happens
- slamming the driver's door shut. A few times. To be sure.
- tapping the mirror where the UEM lives, in case that might wake it up from its slumber. If it works for kids, maybe it....
- knocking the front wheel covers in case the above could apply to the alarm module. And kicking the spot above the gas pedal because some post said there was something related there at least in some cars. Not to mention tapping and knocking anything and everything that looked even vaguely like a black box at the top of the boot, because some guy said there was some transceiver there. And tapping the dash because some other guy said it might live there instead. Yeah, I was getting desperate. Don't pretend you've never been there.
Now....
- the remote works with very reassuring promptness, unlike that which it had before even when it did work
- one of the courtesy lights at the back works. It might be the rest of the bulbs are blown or something else is still amiss
- I have not yet witnessed the auto dimming mirror do anything
- I have not yet reconnected the siren.
- the locking sequence remains "lazy" (first the driver's door, then the rest kind of sluggishly follow) when operated with the key blade.
I'll first give this a few days before that. However, I'll post an update here later to document how (and if) this fix held up.
My main reason for this post is documenting the proper reset cycle for this specific make of car - whether it completely addressed my underlying issue remains to be seen.
As background, the car had sat for nearly a year. The battery was measured at 11.5V when I checked, which seemed to start the engine alright but could definitely mess with computers. Consequently my present diagnosis is that this period of low voltage will have screwed with the UEM in a way not solved by fixing the voltage alone - a reset sequence was also needed to get it back on track.
I've been scouring these forums for a few weeks looking for a solution to my electrical issues. To cut to the chase: on this model, the appropriate reset sequence is
1. Insert key, start the engine
2. lock, unlock, lock, unlock, lock, unlock (using the lock button on the driver's side door - not not the lock ****, the actual button that locks all of the car's doors)
3. turn engine off. The remote fob should work now.
Here's the symptoms I had to aid search engine discoverability:
- remote fob worked intermittently. At times it would work 2,3, even 10 times - and then stop. It wasn't clear if it stopped working for no reason at all or if it was just down to the slightest disturbance in the system. In general it appeared it had the best chances of starting a "period of working" after a long highway drive, and this honeymoon ended once after I unlocked the remote fob to put it back in my keychain (real disappointment there, haha) and once when I changed the air filter (which involved disconnecting and reconnecting the sensor).
- none of the courtesy lights worked
- auto dimming mirror did not work
- battery had been discharged somewhat, I topped it off to no effect (though the 10 times' run did occur following the next long trip after this.... however, on the way back the functioning was not restored).
- a lazy locking sequence when turning the key on the lock
- previous owner had removed the siren fuse. I wonder why....
I tried...
- replacing key fob battery. Many times.
- cleaning every surface of the key fob internals with alcohol and cotton buds. No help, but did really restore the look and feel of the fob, so there's that
- disconnecting the car battery overnight
- disconnecting the car battery while leaving the key in the ignition slot, in pos II, for about 15 minutes, and then reconnecting the battery while the key was in that position (pretty epic sparks, would not really recommend doing it for no good reason)
- using a lab power supply to take the car battery right up to 13.8V over many days of gentle trickle charging
- using the same lab power supply to power the key fob with voltages ranging from the 3V manual specifies to the 3.3V a forum post called out. No effect.
- the UEM reset sequence most readily found on this form - key in pos II, hold windows up buttons for 5-8s, remove key, lock/unlock lock/unlock. Tried this many times, both using the door button and the physical key, just pos II and in engine run, just the 2 lock/unlocks as well as adding an extra 3rd one because some posts suggested 3 of those cycles alone would do a reset. Basically I tried every recombination of these elements on at least 10 different occasions, driving myself slightly mad with these bizarre "magic dances" that feel a lot less like magic when nothing happens
- slamming the driver's door shut. A few times. To be sure.
- tapping the mirror where the UEM lives, in case that might wake it up from its slumber. If it works for kids, maybe it....
- knocking the front wheel covers in case the above could apply to the alarm module. And kicking the spot above the gas pedal because some post said there was something related there at least in some cars. Not to mention tapping and knocking anything and everything that looked even vaguely like a black box at the top of the boot, because some guy said there was some transceiver there. And tapping the dash because some other guy said it might live there instead. Yeah, I was getting desperate. Don't pretend you've never been there.
Now....
- the remote works with very reassuring promptness, unlike that which it had before even when it did work
- one of the courtesy lights at the back works. It might be the rest of the bulbs are blown or something else is still amiss
- I have not yet witnessed the auto dimming mirror do anything
- I have not yet reconnected the siren.
- the locking sequence remains "lazy" (first the driver's door, then the rest kind of sluggishly follow) when operated with the key blade.
I'll first give this a few days before that
. However, I'll post an update here later to document how (and if) this fix held up.My main reason for this post is documenting the proper reset cycle for this specific make of car - whether it completely addressed my underlying issue remains to be seen.
As background, the car had sat for nearly a year. The battery was measured at 11.5V when I checked, which seemed to start the engine alright but could definitely mess with computers. Consequently my present diagnosis is that this period of low voltage will have screwed with the UEM in a way not solved by fixing the voltage alone - a reset sequence was also needed to get it back on track.
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