I bought an S-80 with problems and working thru the worst have come to discover that there is a measured 1.9 amp draw on fuse circuit #32 (Central Electronic Module, Courtesy Lamps,Glove Box Lamp). It definately isn't the lamps we checked those and confirmed they are off. This is sizeable drain and kills the battery if not driven for a couple of days. Help! ALSO while pulling fuses to isolate the problem I have effected my C D changer and the carousell appears to be stuck between discs and showing a "CD ERROR" code on the display. What can I do to get this back on line and functioning correctly. I MISS MY TUNES! and finally I get an oil pressure message when the RPM drops below 1000 rpm. Do I replace the sending unit first and where is it located , and the easiest access path to get to it. Thanks RV

 

First part are you measuring the Parasitic draw off the battery?
If so how long did you wait to see if it drops?
It will take about a good 15 to 30 minutes for the car to go to sleep.

The C/D player you might have to disconnect power to the radio and let it reset.

The oil pressure switch is located in the front of the engine it has a single wire going to it.

But usually there is a problem with the oil pan o-rings.

 

I had waited overnight , this was a first thing saturday morning job and the car hadn't been started when we started testing. I went off of the battery negative cable since that was the only single cable that carried the common load. We opened the door , hood , and trunk and started pulling fuses one at a time and replaceing them and zeroing as we found a change. That circuit was the major culprit. Next , So the CD player just needs to be un-fused for a while and it will re-index itself? If not then what? That really stinks because I really like the sound system in that car and can't play any CD's. On the oil pressure situation are you saying there is a problem internal to the oil pan that is allowing a suction air bleed killing the oil supply to the pump and that re-o-ringing will fix that problem? I have the new sending unit already but I wanted to pull off the least amount of stuff as possible to get to it so what is the easiest pathway to access the old sending unit so I do a swap-out just for fun anyway.

 

1. There is so many things that could cause the Draw. If you want a diagram to search the circuit click the link.http://www.volvotechinfo.com/WD123/

2.Try the Fuse thing if not the radio might have had a short and went bad.
Ususallly either unplugging it or pulling the fuse will reset.

3. Yes the oil pan o-rings go between the pan and the block. Also the line inside the oil pan is known for the Seal to blow out.

4. Access the sending unit from underneath for the Best access(usually)

 

Sorry it's been so long. I had to go to a couple of weeks tech training and certifications. The trick you gave me on the CD changer worked. Thanks a million. next , I never got an answer about the oil pressure issue if it was an o-ring that was allowing air to bleed into the suction side of the pump and kill the pressure or what. Finally back to the battery drain, does the car come to conscienceness when the door is opened or the trunk opened? How long and at what condition do I wait to make the battery drain test? i.e. with all the doors closed and waiting 45 minutes or.... thanks Richard. oh yehh, my wife just called me and said her 2001 S-40 is puffing a little smoke at start-up and this is after a crank-no-start episode. I have seen some of the crank-no-start complaints so where should I look to fix that? RV

 

Yes that is what happens with the oil pan o-rings. They crack or get deformed and allow Air to get into the system Loosing oil pressure.

The Battery drain thing Hook the meter up to the car. Open the door and Note the Amps.
Then sit and watch it. It will drop down in stages. Some take 15 minutes and others take 30 minutes.

I believe .050 is the Min.