before I go rippin and tearin what does it take to change it out? Should I take a tranquilizer first and contact my banker, or is it not that big of a deal? Anything special I shoul know or special tools reqired? Thanks

 

It really isn't that bad just time consuming.
There is a linkage covering the pipes. Grab where it meets the box carefully and remove the entire linkage as one. They break very easy.

Also the clips for the pipes are a pain to get back in.

 

Tech or anyone else, I was considering doing this also since my heater seems to take forever to get warm. I tried blowing the climate control sensor with compressed air like you suggested but it didn't seem to make much of a difference? Should I try replacing the sensor first? Are the heater cores on these similar to domestics (ie: passanger side under dash / behind air bag area). If so the passanger floorboard would most likely be wet? Just curious becasue I lost some radiator fluid awhile back and the light came on and I could smell it. I topped it back off and haven't seemed to have lost any since? Sorry, not trying to take-over the thread just curious. TIA

 

How about a basic lesson, which side does it come out of, passenger or driver or do I disassemble most of the lower dash or what... thanks rv / ps. I checked on prices for the exchanger and have contacted my banker. ouch!

 

It is under the dash in the center on the S80. It comes out the drivers side.
I always remove the lower dash panels on both side just for the extra light.

 

Tips please on how to get out those dang clips. a video for the s80 heater core removal would be awesome. I am to the core but cant get the clips out.

 

So almost five hours later, the heater core is half way out, stuck on the brake sensor, The clips were next to impossible to remove, that is what took most of the day. I was worried about braking something. Now the core is half way out. Not an easy task so far for a rookie female. Gotta figure out how to get it out and past the brake sensor and steering column. Then to get the clips back in which I read somewhere to put them in on the opposite side and it still works, so I will be doing that for sure. Disappointed with the site not having someone on here to talk and consult. Bummer

 

Why do so many people come here for free help and then complain when they don't get help in two hours? No one gets paid to sit here and help people.

 

Your are right ES6T I have greatly appreciated those who have used their power and knowledge for good even when they are not getting paid. Greatly appreciated! Thank you
The task today is to get the O rings seated and clips back in. It took five hours to figure out how to them and the heater core out in one piece. Luckily the heater core going back in finally worked. Thank you all for the tips. That decreased the time.

 

Getting the clips out is the easy part. Go buy a cotter pin puller and give them a good yank.

https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?...&hsimp=yhs-001

Sears carries them on the rack. Getting the clips out is the easy part. You also need to pull the steering column on an S60. The slip joint that connects to the steering rack is 14mm. Push the column all the way in and then pull it out to easily disconnect from the rack.

You will need a T25 bit to take the cover off from around the column.

There are 4 bolts that are T30s. Two can be accessed from the opening behind the cover. The other two can be accessed from under the dash. Buy yourself a T30 socket and a u-joint to make the removal and install easier.

Unclip all of the wiring connections to keep the stress off of harness. Once the 4 bolts are out you can unseat the column and point the end under the dash out of the way of the core.

You will also want to get some zip ties to hold the pipes out of the way. Put one around the accelerator pedal loosely and one loosely around the pipes. Then loop the third through the other two and pull it tight to until the pipes clear the core.

Next fun part. Getting the brake switch out. You'll need a board and dowel rod. put the board against the back of the seat and use it and the dowel rod to push down the pedal.

Back up under the dash push the switch all the way towards the firewall. Reach around the front of it and pull the white collar out till it clicks. Then you can push in the tabs on the top and bottom of the switch and pull it out.

All of that will allow you to pull the core and slide in the new one without bashing either one up. now the REALLY FUN PART... Getting those dang clips back in. I will let you know when I figure that one out. The pipes have to be in really tight. I used a caliper spreader to put even pressure on the pipe and free my hands to fight the clips.

https://search.yahoo.com/yhs/search?...&hsimp=yhs-001

even with both hands I am still not able to get the clips on. I am open to ideas and I apologize for reviving an old thread. Hopefully the info I've provided will help someone else.

 

Well I got the clips in. To do it I had to crank down on the caliper spreader to get the needed clearance. In the picture you can see that one side of the spreader is against the brake pedal assembly. What you can't see is the deep well impact socket being used as a spacer against the steering wheel mounting bracket to keep the spreader level. The wood was used to apply even pressure and not crimp the pipes.