well i had this bosst issue or lack of power issue since i got the car.. last week i decided to remove much of the boost tubing and other simple stuff just to see if i could find a leak anywhere.. i ended up finding oil in the tubes.... quite a bit actualy.. i removed the skid plate and found the bottom fwd section of the motor soaked as well as the oil pan.. so what do i do? i took EVERYTHING off the front of the motor... all the piping, the manifold and ETM, power steering pump, alternator, AC compressor belt fuel rail, and all the vacuume lines.. i found that the oil box or vent box was full of oil and grime and that the transfer tube was torn and leaking.. also oil was going from the top of the box through the metal line and into the turbo intake tube on top of the motor.. I also found lots of dry rotted vacuume tubing, two bad vacuume check valves and on the drivers side wastegate i found the short piece of vacuume hose to be kinked.. i ordered new gaskets for the manifold, and ETM gasket, fuel injector O rings, a boost blow by valve, a vent box and all the seals and piping for it and the two bad check valves (@ $76).. then while i waited for the stuff to come in i replaced ALL the dry rotted vacuume tubing, cleaned off all the oil and degreased the engine, cleaned the ETM/throttle body and cleaned the MAF sensor with maf sensor cleaner.. when the stuff came in i put it all back together (tonight) and then changed the oil and topped off all the liquids.. hooked up the batter and had my fiance start the car while i watched it.. obviously it started hard and ran like crap for about 5 minutes.. there was a little smoke also initialy but i got ALOT of cleaning agents on a bunch of stuff so it could have been something like electrical cleaner still in the alterator or something that needed to burn off.. once the smoke cleared i reved it up a bit and cleaned it out.. once the idle smoothed out i shut it down and re topped off the liquids and put the skid plate back on.. then headed for the highway.. i drove around for about 3 hours.. HERES THE WEIRD PART.. ITS PERFECT... runs great, no noises, no lights or messages, NOTHING! i expected to be up all night trying to recessitate this POS and finding things i forgot to do or did backwards..... there was none of that... ITS DONE... and its definitly got more power and is more responsive then before.. more consistant also..

now i have a question..

i dont feel like its down shifting quite right.. how do i find out if its had the software updates and or should i go get it done and if so how much..?

thanks!

 

tech told me you should run by the dealer with your vin and see if all updates have been performed.. also i know that a degraded maf sensor can cause some drivability issues and erratic shifting.. and it wont always set a code... so i just wonder how dirty your maf was... you need to get some specs on it... whats the numbers on voltage at idle and then at like 2500 rpm... then check for glitches.. and do you have a volt meter or graphing meter or even an OBDII scanner with data..

 

cool ill check with the dealer.... i bought the car in febuary.. and all of the servicing has been done and stamped by volvo so would this indicate that the software upgrades have been done? or do they not do them unless requested?

how can i check the maf sensor... i know how to use a volt meter and all that but not sure where to take readings from... do i need to poke into the wires?

 

The Dealer should be able to look up what software downloads have been done and what it may need.

 

im not 100% sure on that one.. usually a maf has three wires.. voltage, ground and signal to comp..sometimes the iat is incorporated in the sensor as well..so youd have to get a schematic for your car....