So my son hit a deer with minimal damage, minor hit on front. Airbag did not deploy but the sensor did and preventing a start. What to do? Is there a way to switch sensor off?

 

Having worked at my Volvo shop for 38 years - I have never seen an inertia switch in a Volvo. A switch that cuts off the fuel pump or otherwise prevents the car from starting after an accident - such as I've seen on some older Ford? vehicles.

What "sensor " do you think deployed? If the car won't start a good first step would be to scan all the control units to see if there are any codes that might help with a diagnosis. (after making sure basics like the timing belt is still spinning the cams )

 

Says “SRS Airbag Serive Urgent”. See pic. Engine turns over no start up.

 

The SRS system (air bags/seat belts and stuff) will not prevent the car from starting. There is a SRS code stored (causing the message) - First step would be a scan with a compatible tool that can talk to all the control units in the car. (after making sure basics like the timing belt is still spinning the cams - if the timing belt came off the engine would not have compression - and that is very obvious when you try to start the engine )

The car has 213k on it - when were the timing and serpentine belts replaced?

Glad no one was hurt (other than the deer)


Edit - I see you replaced the alternator not long ago - what is the condition of that belt? It happens far too often - the belt shreds and parts get in and interfere with the timing belt.

And it is true there is a " crash mode" - as described in your owners manual.

 

The timing belt was replaced about 160,000 mi. My son who just turned 16 is driving and this is his first car. I had instructed him to check the oil last summer, well he did not seat the dipstick all the way down. It was left up an inch and when I checked a week later there was oil on the overhead manifold, and some on the alternator. The alternator lasted a week or so and basically shorted or malfunctioned internally. So it has a new alternator and we replaced the belt as well.

I guess I will try to track down one of these code readers…..the alternative is load it on my flatbread trailer and take to a shop in town. We live about 15 miles out. I will talk to a couple shops Monday..there is some damage, but could of been worse. See pics

 

Update. So today did the lock/unlock three time with the remote key. Then start attempt. It definitely fired at least a few second, spark and ignition. Then died. I need to get someone with the code reader as you mention. In terms of body damage, could of been much worse. The left headlight crushed and the front end valence/wraparound need to be replaced. The hood appear okay although it seems to have moved/rotated maybe 1/16 o1/8 inch max. Squeaks against rubber stripping.

assuming it is okay mechanically, I will need to replace that large plastic wrap around valence. We hit a deer a year ago with 4Runner and I know these modern plastic parts are speedy. Can anyone tell me where to find a new or even used piece this large?

any ideas?

IAndy

 

I think the damage is a whole lot more than you think it is at this point. Looks to me like the whole front end of the vehicle has been shifted to the left(side - right in the photo). Getting that RIGHT is going to be really expensive. You may be able to get it "close enough for a kid's car" without spending too much though...

Of course, you're going to want to figure out what's going on with the refusal to run. Being a teenager's car, sometimes the answer lays buried in info that hasn't yet been passed along. Could the radiator have been compromised, and then the car driven from the scene until it severely overheated, for example?

 

Habby,

agree and hard to know for certain the extent. No coolant leak evident. I noticed this rod on the right side, in picture. Anyone know what this is or does? I am guessing it is a crash sensor of some type? The one on the left is stuck in, so whatever it is damaged. Need those codes read!

frustrating in that we have put a lot into this car in last couple years….tires, windshield, steering rack, alternator, hatch struts, ugh….should know more in next few days. My first and last Volvo!




Passenger side pulls out. Drivers side stuck, what is it? Sensor?

 

That's the headlight washer nozzle. They spray when the windshield is washed with the headlights on. But not every time.

 

Wow bought the car new in 2006 and had no idea.

 

Good news habby guy. I tried again today and started right up. Drove into town and the scan showed only a broken shoulder,lap belt tensioner. Looking at replacing that front bumper plastic part, both headlight lens assemblies, and that tensioner if I can find one. My only real concern is disassembly of all this plastic without something shattering. Like those plastic cover pieces on the headlight was,sprayers.

anyone know how to remove them? Maybe a hidden spring clip or something like that?

really appreciate all the positive inputs.

 

That is the entire seatbelt assembly - remove it and see if the explosive charge has gone off. That explosive charge tightens the seatbelt in an accident, and is a one time use. If so you have to replace the entire seatbelt assembly. If the replacement is good, reading and erasing the SRS codes will keep the SRS warning off.

 

Hoonk, thank you and yes will remove seatbelt assembly. Do you have any advice on those head light washer devices? Removing the caps on the front? Also, should these light receptacles slide out with just the one tab bent? I use simple green which is a kind of spray soap mixture and that helps plastic slide. I have a history of snapping plastic parts.

looking for a little guidance.

 

Swapping out the plastic bumper (etc.) cover is fiddly, but pretty intuitive. You just remove hardware / pins until it's loose and do the opposite to replace it. I am a bit concerned that you're going to find that the new cover won't fit right, as (unless it's just a matter of an optical illusion due to the camera angle) it sure looks like the front end is structurally twisted.

The headlights are dead easy to swap, happily. Don't recall what it took to get the connector off, but don't remember it being tricky.

And if it was my car, I wouldn't worry about those headlight sprayers - I kind of hate that "feature" on my BMW, as every few times I go to spray the tiniest bit of water on my windshield to clear some dust, those things blow water all over my hood (leaving very obvious water / dust spots on my black hood). If it's not throwing some sort of code, I'd just zip tie the device out of the way and fuhgeddaboudit.

 

Here is the next piece of this puzzle. Apparently I need to remove the shoulder belt which is Locked tight. Then send it to a company that can unlock and then be useable and the code goes away.

I did manage to crack the rear of the cover that provides acces to the bottom and where it attaches to the seat. See picture. Apparently I need a
jumbo sized star wrench or star socket to loosen the belt from the seat.

anyone know what size star socket or wrench this is? Sure it will cost and arm and a leg and I will only use it once…correction, twice…once to loosen and once to tighten.

 

That's just a Torx head bolt. You can order a whole set of Torx sockets for chump change from "all the usual suspects" (Harbor Freight, Amazon, eBay, etc.). Just get a whole set from (say) T10 to T50 or so, and you should cover anything you're likely to run into. Modern cars have lots of those.

Here's an example of a cheap option (not what I'd suggest for rugged, everyday use, but if you've gone your entire life without needing those yet, they should be fine).

 

You car uses a "rocket belt". (looks like a rocket attached to the belt) There is a one time use explosive charge that pulls the belt tight. That explosive charge is not replaceable. If it's gone off (and you can tell by looking at it - if you know what you are looking at) you will have to replace the seat belt. (a good used belt will be ok) SRS codes do not "go away". They have to be read (then problem fixed) and erased. If easy to get to - compare the left and right belts - Below In the green square is the explosive charge that pulls the cable pulling the belt tight in an accident.

 

Thanks. Pulled off front bumper. Hood was difficult to latch, got past safety but took several tries to latch secure. When latched I took two pics. The gap on the drivers side is kinda tight. It is hard to tell if the hood rotated a bit, or if the drivers fender moved. Check out pics.

 

Only see one photo (of the passenger fender). I'd say there's a 0.01% chance the hood is rotated, and a 99.99% chance that the fender is moved (since that's where the impact was).

If you can get it "close enough" to look OK, then you're golden. It's probably never going to be right unless you spend (a lot) more than the car is worth the get it straightened out.

 

Got the belt assembly off. Removed the top part and that bottom torx head does not need to be removed at all. There is a little pin you push just above the bolt. and voila. Came out. Now I have to send it off to get readjusted for about $40. The nearest Volvo dealership wanted $700 for an entire new belt assembly.