Hello, a newbie here.

I have a Volvo V50, 2005, automatic, 2.4l engine. It is sporting a P0026 code, that means Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1, but I haven't found anything on the net about it and the stealership wants 400 bucks for replacing the solenoid and then we will see what the next code will be.

The check engine light comes after having a hard acceleration to pass some slow pokes on the highway. If the ride goes easy for a couple of days, then the check engine light goes off, and the OBD2 code reader can still get it.

Has anybody had that problem before?

Cheers

 

Haven't seen that as of yet.
But the reset valve might be bad.

 

I have had the P0026 code on my 05 S40 2.4i. I just had the dealer diagnose the check engine light and found that the real culprit is the battery. The car starts and runs fine but the battery, even with 12.7V out, does not have enough amperage to run everything properly and lots of codes are triggered that can only be retrieved from the dealer. I am not saying that this is the case for lomolover but it is a good place to start when trouble shooting for something that seems to be working properly.

Also, I would like to thank the guys at My Swedish Parts for their help in the matter.

 

My 2005 S40 2.4i spat out the p0026 code as well. She was lacking power in the braking dept, and the engine was not putting out the power it should. I had the Midas guy check the brakes and pull the check engine code. The mechanic said it could be a faulty solenoid or just gunk/buildup. The engine light went off by itself a day or two later. Also, turns out that the air filter needed replacement which I took care of myself.

She's been fine for the the past 1000 miles/5 months, but the engine light just came back on. Once again, she drives fine but does lack in the acceleration area. She feels a little labored like she's starved for air. It's time to fix the brakes at a 'nominal' $450. I can't really spare the pocket change for whatever else might need a fixin', but I also don't want the fix to become more expensive while I get more funds. So I was just wondering what solutions/expenses came from everyone elses code.

 

This is what I paid out to fix the problem:

100 for the diagnostic charge.
116 for the "gas leak" update(was not required however it was throwing a CEL).
125 for the much needed battery(purchased from auto zone).

All of this was to fix the P0026 intake reset solenoid.

keep in mind that this P0026 code is a generic code and it does not correspond with any of the CEL's that volvo uses. The volvo code that I was handed was for the gas leak sensor, not the solenoid.

If you feel the need to check the solenoid:

you can pull the solenoid off and inspect it. It is located behind the Oil cap on the valve cover, looks like a roll of quaters sticking up out of the valve cover. It has one torx screw holding it in, you may have to pull pretty hard and maybe twist a little to get it out. clean it if necessary, then check the electrical connectors and make sure there is a small resistance across the two pins.

 

That helps. Thanks for the info.

 

I too have a 2005 S40 and have had the Check Engine light come on about every 6-8 months and get the P0026 Solenoid error code. It seems to turn itself off after a day or so and the guy who fixes my car says he can't do anything about it unless the light is on. I do feel like the car lacks power when stepping on the gas, a bit of a delay. Any suggestions from you who have had similar experiences?

 

Sorry, I don't have any solutions. I live fairly close to work, so I only put about 25 miles on her per day. However after taking a 360 mile roundtrip drive she reset herself, to my joy, a couple days later and the cel went off. unfortunately, that only lasted for a few hours.

 

Has anyone found a solution to their P0026 problem? I too have this CEL, but on a more regular basis now. Seems like it may be causing a rough idle and slight hesitation from a dead stop.

 

I'm getting the P0026 on my 2005 S40 2.4i. Started sometime back. But mine doesnt go away it's permanent. Time to fix it to get an inspection sticker.

My scanner says P0026, but as some mentioned earlier, for volvo, it might be the gas leak sensor.

My battery is new. But I too have noticed that my car lock power in the acceleration and sometimes (rarely) misses a few beats at stop lights.

Solutions??

 

Is it easy to replace this solenoid? How much is it?

 

Well last night i replaced the vvt valve or solenoid or whatever you would like to call it and so far it is good. I was throwing a P0026 code and had pretty severe lack of acceleration from a dead start. otherwise the car ran fine. The volvo OEM part number is 36002687 and cost me $120 after core swap.

The solenoid is under the timing belt cover on the passenger side of the engine. Two torx screws removes the cover, than one torx screw removes the valve. Simple fix (if this is your problem)

Hopefully this info helps others. Good luck

 

Will this fit my 2005 s40 2.4i?

I took he old valve out and cleaned it but code came back after 10 minutes, so i take it that the valve is bad.

What brand did you buy?

 

I cleaned mine too and it did nothing. The valve visibilly looked perfect (no sludge buildup, nice and shiny. But I still haven't thrown that code (knock on wood) sinse it was replaced.

I used genuine OEM from volvo parts. I'm learning that volvo doesn't take well to aftermarket parts so if it is reasonable enough I'll buy direct from Volvo. This part was $120 after core swap and I have the exact car you do (2005 s40 2.4i non-turbo)

 

I called the dealership this morning and gave them the part number. It's $112 here but he didnt mention any core swap?

Im going to get this part and change it. I will report results once done. Hopefully the P0026 goes away and check engine turns off. Thats the only thing preventing me from getting an inspection sticker.

 

The volvo dealership did that to me too. Didn't mention any core swap until I actually paid for it. It was $112 over the phone, then $140 when I picked it up. Core was only $20.

As for your other question I would say fix what you know is broken (i.e. a/c pulley) and if it does not solve the problem then you know the next step. It doesn't seem completely unreasonable that it would cause that code, I guess it depends on the severity of the pulley damage.

Good luck

 

THe pulley makes a loud noise almost screeching sometimes but when the mechanic did his work he took the belt off and spun the pulley, sounded pretty bad. SO my thought was that the bad pulley might be throwing the code since it's connected to the crankshaft belt and wiggling.

I'll try to get the pulley changed first and see if the code goes away.

 

No more check engine lights !!!!

I changed the solenoid reset valve today (took 5 minutes), cleared the codes and check engine didnt come back. I drove about 60 miles after changing the reset valve.

I can finally go for an inspection. I still have to change the AC compressor. IT works but i fear the bearing is gone. After taking the belt off and starting the car, it was very quiet and I spun the compressor manually and heard the grinding sound. So I'm looking for a used working compressor. I just don't have $550 to spare for it. I have gone through so much expenses fixing this car. If anyone know of a place online i can get a refurb one, that would be great.

I started with 6 check engine codes when i first joined the forum.