Any suggestions for an affordable code reader for a 2005 Volvo V50 Turbo? When started , every now and then Starter making a sound like a car that is already started, and you start it again. Been more frequent. I assume she needs a new starter, but want to make sure it is not something else first before I spend the $250.
Thanks!

 

really depends what you want from your code reader. You can get a blue tooth code reader which links to a smart phone app for about $15 these days. Code readers go up in price as you start to expand the code sets - ie all will do the powertrain (emissions and some transmission codes) P codes, then as you go up in price you get chassis codes for the ABS, the SRS codes, more detailed transmission codes and the ability to view/record run time data. Top of the food chain are the models that can read Volvo proprietary codes ($100-150) and the king is the Volvo VIDA DICE tool which is the full blown service shop tool used by dealers (beware, to get the real deal you need software licenses - and there's some black market versions on eBay which may not be active or up to date. Volvo does sell temp subscriptions but its really for a fully skilled mechanic). Personally, I have a $39 unit from Harbor Freight which works just fine for viewing and clearing check engine codes. For any other codes you can always borrow a unit from Autozone etc or have a friendly local indy who will scan codes for free.

 

The Bluetooth OBD system that I use is the Torque Pro app (I use it on a droid phone, but it may be available for others). The app is cheap ($5-10) and the OBD Bluetooth "dongle" is only $10-12. The capability is amazing, so you can do advanced troubleshooting like graphing the oxygen sensor outputs, or set up a custom dashboard (I do this for my long road trips, and it's SO much better than other options).

 

Do you think the bluetooth version your talking about can give me a code for my starter issue? The local indy shop has tried to check it, but car always starts fine when I leave it with him, and of course he cant simulate the problem or guarantee it's the starter.
I'm hoping I can leave it plugged in and have it record it when it happens. Thanks!

 

And thanks for the pointer on Auto Zone. I borrowed a "block tester" from them once, to test the block in this V50, but did not know they lent out the expensive stuff.

 

I'm not aware of any starter-related OBD codes, so I doubt that the reader will do you a lot of good. To be honest, I can't really decode your description of the initial issue, so it's hard to offer much more advice.

 

+1 on the starter issue. That you may need to diagose the old fashion way - you can check voltage drops when you turn the key on, inspect cables to start. Typically starters fail one of two ways - the solenoid/gear can get worn or fail - and the motor will just give the click click sound or the brushes/windings/bearings can go and the starter will crank slowly and draw a lot of current. Sometimes you can wack the starter with a mallet on the solenoid and it will free up (assuming you're stranded). The worst case is you may have a chipped tooth or two on the fly wheel (ie a dead spot) - which means you'd need to pull the tranny and replace the flywheel (most people would just leave this as a character issue for the car :-) not a very common thing so its likely you may need to replace the starter and possibly the cable to the battery.

 

here is the starter problem on video...the voltage is about 14 V across the terminals cold. Connections are all good. But just does this sometimes.

 

Interesting. What I'd recommend is to split the troubleshooting in half. Put your voltmeter on the "signal wire" (the small red (?) wire going to the starter that tells it to engage). Then, if it remains at 12 volts with the key in the start position when it behaves like that, you now the problem is the starter. If the 12 volts drops out when the starter disengages itself (seemingly) then you know that the problem is in the ignition switch / immobilizer / whatever else Volvo put there.

The only other thing I can think of is that you would want to check the ground to the starter (through the engine block). Easy enough - just use the engine block for the negative lead of your voltmeter, and the big red lead for the positive. Then if the battery voltage stays when the starter disengages you know that your positive and negative connections to the starter / engine block are good.

 

Thankyou! I will do the diagnosis tonight when car comes back home from work or tomorrow morning when it's more cool.

 

FYI, It was the starter. Could not get at the damn thing myself. Had to bring it to a mechanic. $700 we got the actual Volvo starter, could have save about $200 with OEM, but we will have this car for a while and the motor is solid.

 

The starter can get a dead spot when it spins - it’s like Russian roulette if it lands or not.