Here's the marks - it will take a couple of special tools to remove and reinstall the cam gears - if you get that far. I would line the crank mark up, there's just a tiny dimple on the inside edge of one tooth (it's really hard to see sometimes) and figure out why it's no longer timed. Oh yeah - this is one with the engine mount in the way - you have to remove the mount and support the engine with a floor jack just to get the cover off.

 

TY, while I am waiting on a bore scope to arrive I will check the timing. I have watched a few videos on the removal procedure. I did brakes, replaced the spindles, and the AC & Serp belts I have been in ther4e that far. I have plenty of tools, pullers. Built engines and done frame off restorations. Let me get in there and see if the timing is oof, sure it is. It's kind of weird, when I took those pictures the belt had a1/2 inch ply but after turning over quick to see if the cams were moving it got tight againg with close to no play. I may be a few days as I am working outside and it's raining here in WNC. TY so much.

 

Still to cold to work, few more days I hope.

 

 

** Looks like the AC / Alt belt shredded and jumped the timing as I found that inside the timing cover.
** Looks like the cams may be off by a tooth.
** Have not got bottom cover off to see crank timing yet
** Bore Scope comes tomorrow.

Probably a head job and replace all the timing belt stuff.

TY for your help. It really helps to have someone in the know.

TY

Jim

 

 

I posted some pictures of the cam timing. Bore Scope should be here today.

 

Question??? What is the best way to lock the engine so I can get the Harmonic Balancer / Pulley Nut Loose.

Question??? The engine mount bolts are real tight, I tried changing the amount the engine is lifted but it is still turns tight after at least 2 full turns out???? the right side lower is off but left is the tight one.


TY

JIm

 

? I always used a impact wrench to get the big nut loose. Some engines have a slot below the flywheel starter teeth, you can jam a large screwdriver and keep the engine from spinning that way - might take 2 people if the car is on jackstands.

And Those engine mount bolts can seize, strip out, or break

 

I hit it with an impact wrench but it didn't move. I hit with PB last night along with the mount bolts also. I guess I can hit the Pulley bolt with heat? Mount bolts also if I need to? TY for your input.

Jim

 

I have used the starter many times on cars to loosen a crank pulley bolt/nut. Have not tried in the close quarters of a side engine Volvo.
Put a socket with pull handle, or long wrench on nut (securely as possible) and engage starter - pull handle/long racket/long wrench handle will contact something firm or not - if handle placed just right - it will loosen the nut. If not the tool falls off. If you can get it positioned correctly - it will work, has never failed for me at least. Obviously don't let any human parts get near the pull handle/wrench when you are doing this.

Thinking about a Volvo the lower control arm is firm enough for the pull handle to swing and hit - but from memory is at an angle and will tend to push the socket off.

With normal front engine cars there is usually a frame rail for the bar to whack against.

I would not use heat on the crankshaft. - but you will probably be eventually replacing the crank seal anyway - the oil pump is right behind the front engine seal. The motor mount bolts may end up broken or stripped or a damaged bracket. Had to deal with that several times.

 

TY for reminding me of the starter trick. If I recall once the socket with handle sre wedged the starter will unscrew the bolt? I presume the starter turns the corect way and the nut is not a reverse thread.

I will just have to attack the mount and if they break drill it out and replace.

The Bore Scope was delayed due to the weather hope it arrives today.

Putting the Automatic in drive will not lock it up also?

TY

JIm

 

The auto tranny won't lock anything, sorry.

One old shadetree trick is to pull a plug and rotate that cylinder so the piston's all the way down, then feed in as much thin rope (anything that'll fit through the spark plug hole), and turn the crank bolt counterclockwise (as in removing the bolt). This will compress the rope until it stops the engine rotating. To remove the rope, you'll have to replace the bolt and rotate the crank enough to let go of the rope.

Or you could break down and buy the right tool (always my last resort)...

 

Yep, engine turns clockwise, bolt loosens the other way

Nope, jamming a screwdriver in the starter teeth on the flywheel through the slot (if available) will work - but takes 2 people working under the car.

You don't have to take the crank pulley off to see the timing marks - (you keep mentioning your borescope, as in not diagnosed yet)

 

We know that it jumped timing since I fund part of the Alt / AC Belt in the timing cover. I though the pulley had to be off. I was thinking the bore scope could also go down and see the crank timing.

I got the 2 piece engine mount off, got the confidence if it breaks I fix it.

Let me see if I can see the crank timing, from below??? I f I can just move the cams back I guess to see if it starts ?? It's a part and I got a timing belt kit sitting..

Bore Scope to see if pistons are marked by Valves hitting.

I didn't think there was anyway to diag without tearing into it a bit??

Any feedback is much appceciated.

Oh Yeah the starter crank pulley trick bent the Craftsman 1/2" Socket bar thing. It's on there tight. I think it was a flood car up to the doors. Evberything has been hard to break, doing brakes, Spindle/Bearing replacment.

 

Crank timing marks are visible (but very difficult to see sometimes) from the top. The pulley will need to be off to replace the belt - but I think I've heard of those done without crank pulley removal

 

If I can get it back in timing and it starts, I may just leave it for now. I will see if I can get a light or that Scope camara in there to see the crank timing.

TY

 

Mr HOONK

Weather has been cold but got 65 and Sunny today.. Took some pictures of the timing gear, still have NOT got that pulley to budge even using the starter. I figure if I can get the crank on the timing mark and then be able to correct the cam timing and it starts. I am happy as it is a temporary Station Wagon I bought to haul stukk, a rebuilt title car. Anyway do you see anything here???

 

Sorry can't see anything from your pictures - The timing marks for the crank are illustrated in the two attached pictures. Look for the tiny notches in two teeth close to the aluminum oil pump cover - they are very hard to see - I always used white out to mark them once they were found.

 

1 more question. What piston would be TDC when in timing or timing. I figure that will get it close to where it needs to be. Right?? My classic Mini engines I bring #1 to TDC in order to do the very fine cam timing. For this it's more of in the ballpark but it would get thje timing mark close right? The Gear picture shows me it is on the side, not sure if I can see that or not, using the endoscope to get in there.to see.