98 v70 xc awd, new to me, stutter
#1
03-31-2012, 09:01 PM
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
98 v70 xc awd, new to me, stutter
Hi All,
I'm new to the wide world of Volvo with my 98 V70 XC wagon. I don't trust car shops as far as I can throw one, but I'm a Motorcycle mechanic, not a car mechanic. So here I am without the answers, or even a very good Idea of how these cars are supposed to perform, or the intimate details of their functioning.
This site has given me some great advice that I've already applied to my wagon, but I'm still having some issues. Hope someone can help.
My volvo was tuned up just before I got it by Jollyville Auto in austin, tx, who I am naming because of their behavior. They caharged the previous owners Over $110 for spark plugs in their tune-up! Yea, just the Part, labor was on top of that. Who knew this was a double plugged head?!? LOL. They stuck a Fram filter on it and the way the oil felt when I drained it felt and looked like Penzoil! So sad... Just did oil, MAF/throttle body clean up, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, $700.
Since I got it there have been a few issues that I've treated.
I was getting a sudden drop in Rps both at Idle and on the road. It seemed like the spark just stopped for a turn of the engine. Some times you could smell the raw fuel for a second. My thought was somthing was grounding out, probably the coil. I checked this site out and decided to move the wiring on the Cam Position sensor, I think, and that helped... for 2 days.
Same intermittent problem. I had checked the Coil and my Ohm meter said it was fine, but then I saw it arc through the side wall in the dark, so I replaced it with a VOLVO COIL. Fixed the Problem for 2 days.
Started looking into the MAF. The car had a K&N filter, which i changed for a Non oiled type. When I unplug the MAF, it makes absolutely no good difference, except the car runs rougher at idle and stinks.
The Sudden rpm drop seems to have quit... I have more power with the new coil, and the overall running characteristics have improved with the changes so far. What is still happening is like a seething.
The engine seems to run like a really happy cat purs, and not in a good way. It hasn't tripped the engine light yet, since the other parts. Then I started it and suddenly the car had no controll over it's idle. It fell to 350 or so and then up to 1,000. Up and down trying not to stall, and it didn't stall. then it gradually started running back to the cat purr thing. I had a BMW 325 that lost the Computer and it behaved the exact same way before my buddy diagnosed it as the computer, and fixed the problem in 15 minuts, and it was fixed.
All day after the car was warm it has nearly died on me when I start it after sitting for about a half hour. If the AC is on when I start it, it almost dies, and doesn't quit when I turn the ac off. If the AC is off when I start it, it almost dies, then turning the AC on helps to smooth it out. On the highway with the AC on, I can really tell when the AC kicks on, but it isn't the sudden cut out like before; that seems to be fixed.
Don't know how big a problem this is, and am out of ideas for fixing it without experimentally buying parts (No, no, no!). I have to take a trip to Michigan from cen Texas, and back this up coming week, and I can't deal with fixing it en route. What do you think?
Sorry for The long post, Tried to mostly give the important info. here's some other tech info I know:
128K Miles, Factory Maintanence to 60K, then no records, but clearly well taken care of.
New Bosch Oem Coil, Cap, wires, (allegedly, I havn't personally verifed) Bosch Platnum plugs, roter.
Non oiled Air filter.
New looking Fuel Filter.
Not old looking Belts, maybe 30-40K.
Fuel Pump makes steady whining noise, but maybe that's normal, my first volvo.
Angle gear leaks.
Turbo dose not leak oil. winds up, sounds fine.
Usually only a problem when the vehicle is warm.
What do yo ThinK? I think the Compter. Does the Law suit cover the computer on these? I'm not that familiar.
Thanx!!!
Oh, and FORD SUX
I'm new to the wide world of Volvo with my 98 V70 XC wagon. I don't trust car shops as far as I can throw one, but I'm a Motorcycle mechanic, not a car mechanic. So here I am without the answers, or even a very good Idea of how these cars are supposed to perform, or the intimate details of their functioning.
This site has given me some great advice that I've already applied to my wagon, but I'm still having some issues. Hope someone can help.
My volvo was tuned up just before I got it by Jollyville Auto in austin, tx, who I am naming because of their behavior. They caharged the previous owners Over $110 for spark plugs in their tune-up! Yea, just the Part, labor was on top of that. Who knew this was a double plugged head?!? LOL. They stuck a Fram filter on it and the way the oil felt when I drained it felt and looked like Penzoil! So sad... Just did oil, MAF/throttle body clean up, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, $700.
Since I got it there have been a few issues that I've treated.
I was getting a sudden drop in Rps both at Idle and on the road. It seemed like the spark just stopped for a turn of the engine. Some times you could smell the raw fuel for a second. My thought was somthing was grounding out, probably the coil. I checked this site out and decided to move the wiring on the Cam Position sensor, I think, and that helped... for 2 days.
Same intermittent problem. I had checked the Coil and my Ohm meter said it was fine, but then I saw it arc through the side wall in the dark, so I replaced it with a VOLVO COIL. Fixed the Problem for 2 days.
Started looking into the MAF. The car had a K&N filter, which i changed for a Non oiled type. When I unplug the MAF, it makes absolutely no good difference, except the car runs rougher at idle and stinks.
The Sudden rpm drop seems to have quit... I have more power with the new coil, and the overall running characteristics have improved with the changes so far. What is still happening is like a seething.
The engine seems to run like a really happy cat purs, and not in a good way. It hasn't tripped the engine light yet, since the other parts. Then I started it and suddenly the car had no controll over it's idle. It fell to 350 or so and then up to 1,000. Up and down trying not to stall, and it didn't stall. then it gradually started running back to the cat purr thing. I had a BMW 325 that lost the Computer and it behaved the exact same way before my buddy diagnosed it as the computer, and fixed the problem in 15 minuts, and it was fixed.
All day after the car was warm it has nearly died on me when I start it after sitting for about a half hour. If the AC is on when I start it, it almost dies, and doesn't quit when I turn the ac off. If the AC is off when I start it, it almost dies, then turning the AC on helps to smooth it out. On the highway with the AC on, I can really tell when the AC kicks on, but it isn't the sudden cut out like before; that seems to be fixed.
Don't know how big a problem this is, and am out of ideas for fixing it without experimentally buying parts (No, no, no!). I have to take a trip to Michigan from cen Texas, and back this up coming week, and I can't deal with fixing it en route. What do you think?
Sorry for The long post, Tried to mostly give the important info. here's some other tech info I know:
128K Miles, Factory Maintanence to 60K, then no records, but clearly well taken care of.
New Bosch Oem Coil, Cap, wires, (allegedly, I havn't personally verifed) Bosch Platnum plugs, roter.
Non oiled Air filter.
New looking Fuel Filter.
Not old looking Belts, maybe 30-40K.
Fuel Pump makes steady whining noise, but maybe that's normal, my first volvo.
Angle gear leaks.
Turbo dose not leak oil. winds up, sounds fine.
Usually only a problem when the vehicle is warm.
What do yo ThinK? I think the Compter. Does the Law suit cover the computer on these? I'm not that familiar.
Thanx!!!
Oh, and FORD SUX
#2
04-11-2012, 09:05 PM
Hi and welcome to the forum. Sorry I didn't see your post sooner.
What cel code did/do you have? Your OBD-II port is in your armrest. Most auto-parts stores will pull the codes for free. Is sounds like the car is idling rough and running rough. My first guess would be a weak fuel pump. Maybe you should check your fuel pressure at the end of the fuel rail. It has a valve stem there where you can easily check the pressure with a gauge.
Second: Vacuum leak. The best place to start checking is at the idle control valve. That is under the plastic cover where the throttle wire goes. Sometimes a hose will come loose from the valve. Check as many of the vacuum lines as possible.
Computers rarely go bad. The codes will be a key to letting you know where to go. Read the New 850 owner thread in the 850 section. Your car is basically a new 850 model with 700 improvements.
Oh, be glad that you don't have a Ford/Volvo, they didn't start till '01.
What cel code did/do you have? Your OBD-II port is in your armrest. Most auto-parts stores will pull the codes for free. Is sounds like the car is idling rough and running rough. My first guess would be a weak fuel pump. Maybe you should check your fuel pressure at the end of the fuel rail. It has a valve stem there where you can easily check the pressure with a gauge.
Second: Vacuum leak. The best place to start checking is at the idle control valve. That is under the plastic cover where the throttle wire goes. Sometimes a hose will come loose from the valve. Check as many of the vacuum lines as possible.
Computers rarely go bad. The codes will be a key to letting you know where to go. Read the New 850 owner thread in the 850 section. Your car is basically a new 850 model with 700 improvements.
Oh, be glad that you don't have a Ford/Volvo, they didn't start till '01.
Last edited by rspi; 04-11-2012 at 09:06 PM. Reason: add
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
