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Alternator Bad? If so, how easy to replace?

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Old Nov 5, 2009 | 07:08 PM
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Default Alternator Bad? If so, how easy to replace?

So my battery light came on tonight while I was driving. I just hooked up a multimeter while the engine was running, and the battery only read 11.9 Volts (so it's not charging). I'm assuming that I need a new alternator. The question is... how hard is it to change on a 98 V70 T5 FWD car? If anyone has done it, please give me some pointers.

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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 09:49 PM
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You may not need to replace the alternator, try replacing the regulator first. $57 delivered on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/alter...Q5fAccessories

I did this job on my C70 convertible turbo.....pretty sure the engine bay is the same or very similiar. I can post some pics if ur interested. The alternator didn't need to be completely removed.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2009 | 10:15 PM
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Originally Posted by MoneypitC70
You may not need to replace the alternator, try replacing the regulator first. $57 delivered on ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/alter...Q5fAccessories

I did this job on my C70 convertible turbo.....pretty sure the engine bay is the same or very similiar. I can post some pics if ur interested. The alternator didn't need to be completely removed.
Very interested in the pics. Also, what were your car's symptoms?

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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 07:06 PM
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Symptoms varied...check engine light came on (i didn't read the code), my front seat refused to power forward, the car had a hard start situation and the battery light flicked on/off.

Regulator: $57 delivered, better than a $200 alternator

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Totally disconnect the battery. Remove the coolant overflow and the power steering reservoir (no need to disconnect the hoses). Pull the computer vent tube off and pull the power steering pump, still don't need to disconnect the hose, just move it aside. I believe there are 4 bolts that hold the alternator...they need to be removed and that is the biggest pain of this job. You will need a couple different extensions to reach them.

You are basically clearing a path to twist the alternator to remove the regulator, not to completely remove the alternator from the engine bay.

Here is the alternator ready to be worked on. (Pay no attention to the crowbar, LOL)

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Here is a close up with the 2 nuts removed holding the regulator on.

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Remove these 2 screws and off comes the regulator.

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Old vs new.

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Here is the issue...

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Make sure to clean this contact before reassembly.

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Last edited by MoneypitC70; Nov 10, 2009 at 07:35 PM. Reason: Added pics.
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 08:01 PM
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Hey thanks for this post! The pictures help a lot. So the only thing left connected to the alternator are the actual wires from it? It looks like you've pretty much removed the mounting bolts from it.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2009 | 09:31 PM
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YW. Pretty sure the 2 nuts on the back held the wires and yes, all the bolts are removed. More of a time consuming job than anything. GL!
 
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 05:01 PM
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So I started to work on the alternator today. I got all the way down to removing the bolts on the alternator itself and ran into an issue. I've got the top 2 bolts off, but I can't figure out where (and obviously how) to get the bottom bolt off. I reached around the bottom of the alternator, and I simply couldn't find the bolt. Any pointers?

Thanks
 
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Old Nov 15, 2009 | 10:04 PM
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Default Picture of alternator mounting bolts

I haven't done this but it looks like you have remove the top mounting bolts of the AC compressor where one or both bolts are shared with the alternator bottom mounting and also loosen the AC bottom bolts to provide some clearance for alternator removal.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 08:30 AM
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Well, Swen, its just another case of design to maximize service bills. The alternator/regulator needs service 3x as often as the power steering pump so we put it UNDER the power steering pump. Sort of like how we put our PCV/flame trap under the intake manifold for difficult access, and how we forgot to put an accessible auto trans dipstick under the hood.

Thanks for the pics -- this is a good, clear set. Sticky????
 
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by FirstV70Volvo
I haven't done this but it looks like you have remove the top mounting bolts of the AC compressor where one or both bolts are shared with the alternator bottom mounting and also loosen the AC bottom bolts to provide some clearance for alternator removal.
That picture shows one of the bolts being perpendicular to the other ones. I don't think the alternator holes are setup like that are they?
 
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 04:23 PM
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Here is a pic of the alternator......

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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 04:25 PM
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Those last 2 bolts are DEEP under the alternator....hence the need for various extensions.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by MoneypitC70
Those last 2 bolts are DEEP under the alternator....hence the need for various extensions.
Wow that looks complete different from the one that I bought. Here's what mine looks like (I bought it from Advance Auto, but it looks just like this one)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ALTER...Q5fAccessories
 
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 07:03 PM
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Here's another look...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Volvo...Q5fAccessories
 
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Old Nov 16, 2009 | 07:10 PM
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Ok, it seems that volvo changed the design from 98-99, so that's where our difference is. Thanks for the help anyway though. I really appreciate it.
 
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Old Nov 22, 2009 | 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by malaka
Well, Swen, its just another case of design to maximize service bills. The alternator/regulator needs service 3x as often as the power steering pump so we put it UNDER the power steering pump. Sort of like how we put our PCV/flame trap under the intake manifold for difficult access, and how we forgot to put an accessible auto trans dipstick under the hood.

Thanks for the pics -- this is a good, clear set. Sticky????
Or how we put the fuel pressure valve on the fuel rail all the way at the top of the engine where it is easy to get to. Marketing or incompetant vs. detailed engineer? Incompetant designs tranny dipstick location of course.
 
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