hello all, i need to change the automatic transmission fluid in my 2000 v70 xc. i cannot find a repair manual for the car. i have asked a few mechanics and the last quote i got was $440. i like to do things myself because of interest, and i dont have much money. one mechanic said he would just drain the old fluid, refill it, drive around a bit, drain and refill it again. is this a bad idea? another mechanic said they would need to use a "special" machine to clean the filter. if i can get away with draining and refilling it, i would rather do it myself, i just dont know where the drain plug is located. if anyone could let me know if the drain and refill method would be fine or a waste of time and money, i would appreciate it.

 

$440 to change ATF? seriously? Someone's trying to take you for a ride. There's a drain plug on the bottom of the transmission, through which you can drain the fluid. You then refill it with the correct fluid (not sure offhand if your vehicle calls for the new fluid or not... check your owner's manual) You can actually stop with that, however, that method (on ANY car) only changes about 1/3 of the fluid. Fortunately, there's a way to completely flush the fluid. IPD (ipd-usa.com) makes a flush kit that will work with most Volvos, including your car, for about $20 that greatly simplifies the procedure, though it's not 100% necessary. Either look on this site for the instructions, or follow the instructions with the IPD flush kit, and you can change all the fluid yourself fairly easily, if you're reasonably handy. Good Luck!

 

Don't bother with the flush kit, just go to your local hardware store and buy some 3/4" OD clear tubing and use a clear jug with quart markings on it. I used a milk jug and put 1qt markings on the side. I bought about 6' of tubing so I could set the jug where I could see it while sitting in the car.

 

I don't know the current price of Volvo ATF, but 16 quarts (the usual quoted number for a flush) times $20 a quart is $320. So his quote of $440 is steep but not outrageous. I have a 2001 and I ordered the Mobil special stuff (3309) on line (around $6.50 a quart), or use the Toyota type IV. I got 3 cases of this local at the Toyota dealer in Vacaville Ca for just under $3.50 a quart (for future use). I used 1/2 clear line from Home Depot but had to add several layers of duct tape to the end to get a snug fit into the radiator outlet. I figured smaller was better and i could build up if needed, but perhaps the 3/4 inch is the right stuff as suggested by JTrapper. I also agree with his suggestion to use about 6 feet. This makes it easy to see yourself on how long to run the engine without the need for a helper. I highly recommend 2 quarts out, 2 quarts in and continue until the fluid is red. For me it only took 12 quarts, but my fluid was only slightly brown to begin with. Good luck, let us know how it goes!

Jerry

 

3/4" line is the way to go, whether you have a P1 or P2 Volvo. I believe on the P1's the fluid goes in the top of the cooler, so if you remove the top tranny cooler line it comes from the line. On the P2, it comes from the cooler side. Pretty easy to tell if you hook it up wrong, You'll make a mess.

On the P1, the 3/4" tubing fits OVER the end of the line, and the P2 it fits snugly inside the connector on the cooler side. No duct tape required.

I used Toyota Type T IV which is 3309 compliant, and I have read (unconfirmed by Mobil) that it is just rebadged Mobil 3309 fluid.

I have been running it for 3K miles with no issues. If you use the wrong stuff, you'll know within 100 miles I'm sure. Shifts will get sloppy and engagement into drive and reverse may be delayed.

Like Checksix said, go with the Toyota fluid. I think I paid about $80 for a case of 12qts, and I flushed with it all.

 

New to this forum but need help? I have a 2001 v70xc that is having trans issues. shifting hard(erratic up and down) and sometimes slipping. I want to flush trans with new fluid. How do I find out if I have a P1 or P2, and can anyone give me step by step directions to hook up the flush tubing. Basically which side to diconnect and how to actually do it.I have a IDP book that shows the flush kit. not really much to it, tubing and connector for $25. I would order it to get the proper instructions but do not want to wait for the kit as I am in Florida and it would take a week to receive it from Idaho.I need to flush this thing soon(yesterday) Do you have to use a new connector, or can you replace the o-ring and reuse the green plastic lock? Does just replacing the fluid solve these problems? My car has alot of miles 130k and has anyone used the Lucas ATF conditioner that conditions seals,stops leaks and stops slipping? Two long time mechanics that I asked both have used many or their products and had good luck with them. Any help in these matters would be greatly appreciated... Pete

 

I'm no whiz kid at math, so I can't figure out the answer to an issue about trans fluid drain/refill that's been bothering me. What happens if you simply drain out that 1/3 that drains out and replace it with new at 10,000 mile intervals? You'd have 1/3 clean fluid which I suppose would mix with the older fluid, and drain out 1/3 of that mix at 20K, etc. I know you'd never have 100% clean fluid in the mix, but you'd have 33.3% good fluid at the time of the early change, and the rest would be only 1/3 worn (assuming 10K drain & refill intervals, never mind what Volvo says about no need to change fluid) and 2/3 worn at 30K interval when another 1/3 would be replaced . So except for the little bit that never mixed up for whatever reason, you'd never have a trans full of worn out fluid. Wouldn't that be a better plan?

Or is this just me thinking too much with my "cheapskate" hat on? Seems to me that worn/used up fluid is the problem and this is an easier solution that wouldn't take all day to resolve.

 

Because the time it takes to flush the other 2/3 of the fluid the first time is less than setting up for subsequent flushes.

You're not saving any money really...you're still buying 12qts of fluid, just not at one time.

 

Malaka, Probably a good plan if the owner starts early and stays with the plan. My experience is they wait way too long until they already have a problem, then you have a third good with 2 thirds junk! I'm one of those in the middle. I didn't have problems, but didn't discover the forums until around 60K miles on mine. I couldn't set up fast enough to do a flush after all I had read! Did a total replacement using 12 quarts, and then again about 10K later. After that I've settled into a 30K full replacement interval. With only 105K on the ticker, it's still way to early to say if my strategy is the right one, but she shifts just as good as the day I bought her new in 2001.

Now if the ETM would only hold out too (so far so good)!
Jerry

 

Cracks me up every time!

 

JTapper, glad to make you smile! I sure miss the days of the red blocks. When I 1st bought it, I figured I'd never understand the fuel injection, but after careful study, it was actually a pretty simple and reliable system. I look back on my P1800ES with 2000 cc 115hp and got a combined 25 MPG. My 01 V70 T5a is a much bigger car with twice the ponies and gets better MPG at a combined 27-28. Technology marches on! A special thanks to all forum members who makes it possible for the average guy to keep em running and away from the stealership, I couldn’t do it without you!

Jerry