I had to replace the sway bar bushings on my wife's 1999 V70GLT. Everyone said they only come mounted to the bar and you buy it as an assembly for about $200. Wrong - this company has the bushings for ~ $14 each. So for $35 bucks I fixed the issue. Took about 6 months to find but worth it.

Dave

http://catalog.worldpac.com/ibusines...ay+Bar+Bushing
________
LovelyWendie

 

I like the idea of changing bushing but I don't like Scan Tech (which is the mfg in your link). This is b/c Scan tech does not have good reputation.

Do you know if there is a Volvo PN at all?

 

CN90,
I was not able to track down a Volvo part number. I spoke with several dealerships and they all said that the bushings were part of the sway bar assembly and could not be purchased separately. Even FCP and IPD did not have these bushings - same story. My thought was that somebody made them to put on the bar, so they had to be out there. Maybe somebosy else sells them. Did you have a bad experience with Scan Tech or just a bad reputation is keeping you away? Thanks

Dave
________
Pissing outdoor

 

I have no experience with Scan Tech but if you google "Volvospeed Scan Tech", there are tons of people who bought Scan Tech control arms etc. and are very angry at the early failure rates.

Bushings, I don't know because you are the 1st person to post this.

I am looking into "Energy Suspension" parts.

 

Sounds good - post to the forum if you find another source. I was just glad there was one company that had them. Thanks

Dave
________
Wendie 99

 

Dave,

Thanks for the info but I need to ask this Q: in my 1998 BMW 528i, the busing has a bottom slit, so I simply open the slit and slide it over the sway bar and clamp it down.

The Volvo bushing you mentioned is round (no bottom slit), so I have to disconnect the endlinks to install it?

 

I did remove the endlinks and slide them over. My endlinks were shot so I was taking them off anyways. By the way, the heavy duty endlinks from FCP are really stout. The bushing slid over fairly easily and I used some KY to make it easier. Use a water soluble lube so it can dissipate without any slippery residue being left behind. My truck had the ones that had a cut in them. I actually contemplated cutting these if I could not slide them on.

Dave
________
Upskirt ***

 

Hey ddrewyor,

Any feedback on your new bushings?

Thanks!

 

The bushings are working great. That annoying clunk is gone and has not returned. They seem to be working well.

Dave
________
Infants prilosec

 

How many miles in your car when the bushing went bad?

 

The clunking showed up at ~ 100k miles and I replaced them at 122k miles. The car has about 130k miles on it now. Did you ever find another source for these bushings?

Dave
________
MERCEDES-BENZ M103 ENGINE

 

My next project is to jack the car up, remove the wheel and measure the exact dimension on this bushing (I know it is 20-mm) such as total thickness, distance from the bottom center of the hole, bottom-top distance, width etc.).

I wrote a DIY for my 1998 BMW 528i here, you can see the bushing has a slit at the bottom:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=399580




All you need is the proper rubber size, cut a slit at the bottom and slide it in. This way you avoid forcing the bushing through each end (which is not round). At least the BMW bushing has a slit at the bottom, you simply spread and slide it from the top of the sway bar.

So, I am looking at these options.

- "Energy Suspension" Polyurethane bushings
- Volvo P1800 bushings
- 2005 Honda Accord REAR swaybar bushing ($2 at dealer)

 

Good pics. You are correct, I did have to force the bushing out of shape a bit to get it over the end of the bar. It did go back to round once it hit the round part of the bar. I agree the ones with a slit are much easier to install. Thanks for the alternative sources for bushings.

Dave
________
Teen german

 

FYI,

There is a similar thread going on in Matthew Forum:
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=1&t=29384

I am waiting to hear from "kaireland" to install the "Energy Suspension" bushings on his Volvo.

 

OK,

I just jacked up the car for inspection. My FRONT sway bar bushing is cracked after 12 years 106K, but no significant gap between the bushing and the bracket yet.

I measured the dimensions in case anyone needs to buy the generic bushings (I have not replaced my bushings yet).
My car is 1998 V70:
- Sway Bar 20mm
- Bushing is 40 mm x 30 mm x 30 mm, with 5 mm at the bottom. See pic:

 

Dave
I'm also looking for sway bar bushing for my 1999 S70.
My bar is also 20 mm.
Can you tell me where you bought them and do you have contact person?
Jim V

 

As a thought, you may want to consider installing the IPD heavy duty sway bar (25mm Front/25 rear) since you need to go to the trouble of removing the bar. I installed the kit on my 850T wagon and it was remarkable what an improvement it made to the handling of the car. Oh and you get the bushings with the kit :-) One suggestion should you go to the IPD bar, use the IPD HD end links as well...

 

Took your advise.
Ordered HD front and rear with HD end links.

Jim

 

Where your bushing vulcanized to the bar? I have a 99 C79 cabriolet and yes they are supposed to be vulcanized on the bar.
If the old were vulcanized to the bar, how difficult was it to remove traces of the old bush?
Did the Scantech bush last very long?
Ditto on the scantech control arms. I got a few months out of them. Not an easy job on this car either.