I'm looking for some help on this one. I have a 98 V70 XC with 185k. It started to sputter to a stop and stall the other day and then could only get it to start and drive about 1/4 mile before it loses power and stalls. Now, I can start it and it will idle for 1-3 minutes before stalling. During this time, the MPG gauge started to drop to the 5mpg range.

1. Checked ignition components. Looked like original Volvo plugs and wires (07/98 date) and replacement Bosch cap and rotor. All looked bad, I replaced them with the correct parts and no change. I also replaced the fuel pump relay for good measure.

2.Attached fuel pressure gauge, start the car and it shows 20psi of pressure, then within a minute, it drops to 0 and the car dies.

I'm thinking fuel pump, but I've never had one die this way. They have either worked or not, and when they didn't, I could bang on them and they would work until the car was shut off.

Any other tests I should try, based on the symptoms?

Also, since the pump is a ***** to replace, can anyone tell me if the pump is removed the same as a FWD V70 (spin off the ring and pull out the pump assembly)? I want to just cut an access panel above the pump. Anyone know if there is anything in the way above the tank that would impede my cutting wheel?

Thanks,
david

 

Sure sounds electrical where over time and current draw something heats up, fails, cools down and reconnects,You were smart to have good pressure readings to help! I know you just replaced the pump relay, but when it fails and the cars stops, can you hear the pump cycle as the key is moved from acc. to run? This is IMMEDIATELY after it fails and prior to it cooling enough to make the connection again. I once had a starter problem on a friend’s car. We figured it was the solenoid (easy to get to as it was a mid 60's Ford). We replaced it, but didn't fix it. Hours later, we were again convinced it had to be the solenoid, so we bought yet another one. Sill no GO!!! Finally a few more hours I pulled the one out of my truck and BINGO!!! Lesson here is, just because you put in a new one, doesn't mean it was a good one. Better to have a known good one to substitute.

Good Luck![sm=icon_cheers.gif]
Jerry
01 V70 T5a

 

Hi, before you go to the fuel pump exercise, replace the fuel pump relay, easy and cheap ie. 15min and 50$. It's103 under the fuse box cover in my 850-94 and i had to replace it in 2004 after 10years service life. You might also jump the relay for immediate testing and see if it runs longer than a minute.
br Tapsa

 

I would try to get to the wiring and make sure the pump still has signal.

But the really bad part is since it is AWD you have to drop the tank and part of the rear end some to get the tank loose.
There is no access hole like on the FWD because the tank is under the seats more on the AWD and it also saddles the drive shaft.

 

Thanks, for the responses.

I'll check for power. I know how to get the tank out, that's why I want to just cut a panel over the pump. I just want to know if it's that easy, or if there is a bunch of crap I will be cutting through to get to it. When done, it will have a new easy to use access panel and won't have to deal with this travesty of design again.

Tech, have you seen these pressure regulators fail in this fashion, with too low pressure? I'm still not comfortable with the huge drop in fuel economy, like an 02 sensor sending a wrong signal. My brain can't understand too little fuel pressure with what seems to be too much fuel??

Tapsa, I replaced the relay for age and the small hope that it might help.

 

More info (and yes, I have been using the search engine here for a few weeks, but not much info on Volvo's vs BMW/Porsche/Mercedes):

The fuel pump is working, or at least has power and is running. I can keep the car running at a fairly steady state just off idle forever. It only reads 12psi constant. If I blip the throttle (by hand, since the throttle assembly has to be removed to attach the gauge. Another "way to go" design flaw), it makes a sucking noise in the intercooler pipe, hesitates, then increases in rpm. I can use the whole rpm range, no change in fuel pressure.

When I disconnect the throttle linkage and the throttle closes on its stop, the car chokes and dies and the fuel pressure goes immediately to 0psi. If I hit the pressure relief valve on the gauge while running, fuel does squirt out, but nothing comes out that or directly from the schrader valve when the car is off.

I want to fix the fuel pressure issue first. It looks like I have the pressure regulator with no return line or vacuum hose on the fuel rail. Is that it? Can it be tested?

What else should I look at on this car for low fuel pressure?

 

Check in the back by the fuel filter I think there is also a port back there to connect the fuel pressure guage. If so connect there and see what the pressure is. That will rule out the regulator. I haven't seen a ton of problems with the regulators.

As for the hole I have always thought about trying to cut one but never had the chance to try it.

 

I checked the pressure at the rear and it is also 12psi. Should I condemn the pump at this point and start cutting? Man, that fuel filter looks like a joy to replace, too.

Tech, can you give me a hint on a starting point to drill from the car's centerline? The wires look like they go right of centerline.

In return, I contribute a pic of my rally car I'm trying to finish in the next week.

Thanks,
David





[IMG]local://upfiles/19506/E1BFF805E2F44CC18F4DB0E94EE51DD0.jpg[/IMG]

 

Nice Roll Bar!!!

The pump assembly is like right under the rear passenger side seat. I cannot tell exactly where it has been 3 years since I did my last one.

I would say it is time for a pump.

 

That's what I needed, thanks. I'll hole saw the vicinity until I see it, then cut out a rectangle. When I'm done, I'll post pics and measurements for the future.

Now to get those rear seat backs out...

 

Well, I finally got time to look at the pump. I had to finish the rally car and run a Rally America rally over Thanksgiving, so I'm back to this.

I was able to estimate where to cut the hole, since I could see the where the pump was under the car. So, I cut a square around the seat bracket and folded it forward. You can see there is now good access to the pump.

Tomorrow I'll see about getting it out without destroying something.


[IMG]local://upfiles/19506/6FF7C73A4ABA427E87C0EC8819A23B27.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/19506/36F6F837634E4B82863A7875E792C2D5.jpg[/IMG]

 

Good job cutting the hole!!

Now to get the lines loose do you have one of the panel clip removal tools? Looks kind of like a nail puller but it is the size of a screwdriver.

I have one that I bent to a 90 degree angle and it slides in under the center plastic on the lines that need to be compressed for the lines to slide off.

 

I used a 90 deg flat blade scewdriver to release the fuel lines. I cut the wires, since I didn't want to bother with fishing the harness through on top of the tank.

Now, Volvo used a Walbro GRJ235 pump on the V70 XC, I've found out. I also found out that it can't be found in the US, though I do see that it's sold in other countries. Of course, it's different than the other models. So, I raise another big FU to Volvo, as I try to get this car out of my life.

Looking at an old SAAB Walbro pump I have, I think I can modify the normal replacement V70 Walbro to fit. The problem may be in the fuel pickup, though. The stock pump has an angled bottom tube to pickup low hanging fuel. I may just need to keep from running the tank too low on fuel to pickup. Maybe I can bend the arm on the level sensor to have the light come on a little sooner.

Unlike the only other post I've found on the internet that gets you to this point and then doesn't conclude on which pump was used to complete the repair, I vow to finish this thread!

Some pics:





[IMG]local://upfiles/19506/BE6ECC63323B4AE5ACA35B0F1BFBF099.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/19506/6992857BE3DD452989A1D4D992B36A87.jpg[/IMG]

 

I wonder if you can just use a 850 pump itself in that housing? Might be worth a try. All of the ones I have done we replaced the entire assembly.

BTW how did the race go?

 

I have contacted the major pump distributors to see if they can get this pump from Walbro. If not, I think this one will work, and comes with a sleeve that should take up most of the extra space in the housing.

http://www.fuel-pumps.net/5ca231.html

The end of the stock pump fits into a hole on the bottom of the housing, which steadies the pump. Looking at pics of the 850 and others, they seem to fill the whole housing.

The race went well. We finished both rallies, about 70 miles total, almost hit 3 deer on the last stage and bounced off of a giant hole at speed, but recovered. We built a custom suspension and were trying it out before entering the longer rallies. I will post a pic later from a different computer.

 

That pump looks pretty good.

Happy for you on the race. I would love to see the pics.

 

I ended up ordering a Walbro GCA749 fuel pump. I only needed the pump, so the rest of the kit is trash. This pump is exactly like the original pump, except that the tube sticking out at the bottom is 180 degrees off. I don't think that will matter, since the rest fits right. Even the stock wire harness plugged right in.

link to pump:

http://www.jdsperformance.com/index....m&inmake=0

I used 3M window weld to seal the cuts. After charging the battery overnight (the car sat for 3 months) and cranking it for awhile, it came to life and ran smooth! I need to go get a state inspection done to be road legal again. After that, I'll report whether it was a complete success.

 

Glad it is going good so far thanks for all the info along the way.

 

Let's see some pics of that Aspire! Thought of doing a mazda b6t swap?
Hi Jack!

 

Another update. I've been trying to get the state inspection done, but every time I get to the station, the check engine comes on. P0172. I also have a hard start issue, where it takes about 3 good cranks to start. Then, about 80% of the time it falls flat accelerating from a stop.

I didn't find any obvious vacuum leaks, so I checked fuel pressures again and found 0 psi at the fuel rail (didn't know that was possible with the car running), and 12 psi again at the fuel pump. Maybe I have a bad gauge, but no gas comes out of the schrader valve at the rail after shutting off the car.

I'm leaning toward buying a fuel pressure regulator. Any other suggestions?

Also, how does this fpr work? Internal diaphram or something?

Thanks,
David

JTapper: yes, i have a b6 motor from a capri in the garage to swap into the Aspire. My friend almost has his Escort GT motor in his.