I was just looking in my manual and I didn't see anywhere on how to check the transmission fluid. When I take the car out of park and into drive, it sometimes makes a 'clunky' sound. That the best I can describe it. It also makes that noise when I take it from drive to reverse. I'm also going to check the lower motor mounts.

I remember the dealer saying that one of the lower one's needed replacement. However, I already had spent enough I didn't get it replaced. What are the different lower mounts? Is there one that is closer to the front that me and a friend could change with the assistance of a floor jack.

I know its alot, any help would be beneficial.

Thank you!!

 

When facing the engine on the driver's side, the transmission dip stick is straight down and has a small circular YELLOW top.......there's a little bit of a lip to pull up and over to get it out. It's a little difficult to see it because there are wires and other stuff in the way. What's the mileage on your vehicle and when was the last time the transmission fluid was changed? It's also critical to use only the Volvo brand fluid for this transmission (expensive) or the Mobil JWS 3309 spec fluid.......read the Sticky posting thread on transmissions that has lots of info on these 2001 and new V70 transmissions. If it is a transmission problem with the clunk noise you're hearing and not the motor mount(s), then I'd get a Volvo Dealer to check it out for a software update like they did for mine which improved the shifting. But you can drain the transmission fluid yourself or buy the fluid and have someone drain it for you. My Volvo Dealer charges over $300 for a transmission service including flush which is way too much. Again, read through the thread on transmissions which includes the DIY approach for transmission drain and refill.

 

Sorry for the correction, but the Sticky posting thread on Transmission Fluid I mentioned is located as the first posting under the S60 vehicles...........the 2001 and newer V70s and the S60s have the same engine and transmissions.

 

My car has 130,000 miles on it and I don't think that it has had the tranny fluid changed. I'll have to look up how to do it myself and get some help.

It shifts fine, it just seems chunky when I put it into drive or from drive to reverse. But its not all the time.

I'll have to check the tranny fluid color to see if its brown/old.

Thank you.

 

The Sticky Thread I mentioned on the S60 section contains the DIY procedures for changing the fluid.

 

The mount the dealer mentioned is cheap and very easy to replace with ordinary wrenches. It's something you can do in the driveway in 10 to 20 minutes (its 4 bolts). It will absolutely help with the clunking. Here is a review of one by HummerGuy: Available Here

You can replace it with a Volvo part or get a performance one.

But certainly go ahead and do the tranny fluid.

 

I'm a newbie in Volvoworld, so excuse me if this is a dumb question. But, how does a car company that has made cars for years and years create a maintenance schedule that doesn't call for something as simple and obvious as checking auto trans fluid create one that after 60K miles insists on frequent inspections of suspension components and create designs that have normally durable items like motor mounts and trans mounts and bushings and tie rod ends need replacement (see other threads here)? Even Mercedes Benz, no slouch in the inspection/replacement department has life-of-the-vehicle airbags now as I understand. Volvo doesn't. I've always checked (at least by the eyeball and smell test methods) my trans fluid when I check the oil. My wife's V70 is the first auto trans car I've ever dealt with that discourages checking the trans fluid. Why, especially when Volvo knows (or at least should know) that its auto trans's aren't exactly bulletproof?

 

I can see the pic of the torque mount in the thread. Is that torque mount in the pic located on top of the engine? Or the mounts located at the bottom of the engine?

I still have to locate the tranny dip stick, I've looked all over on the driver side of the engine compartment and I can't see it. I'll bring a flash light with me next time.

I really appreciate everyone's help!!! I'm so glad that I found this site!

BTW, has anyone ever posted any videos on youtube or something for easy repairs? I've seen them for other cars. Just an idea.

 

I'm with you! I kept looking in my manual and I didn't see anything on how to check the tranny fluid. Not checking it or letting it go bad can lead to unbelievable repair bills.

 

The lower torque mount is under the car, located at the very front of the engine. It's a bit off-center and closer to the driver's side.

Here is a thread from the S60 forum regarding the dipstick, pictures of the dipstick are linked: Here. The pics are from a non-turbo. Its the same location for a turbo, but its much harder to see.

 

Thank goodness this forum exists. Way better than trial and error. Especially since I can't find a shop manual for my wife's 06 V 70 turbo. Honda, for one, tells owners how to change antifreeze, spark plugs, and other routine maintenance items right in the owners manuals.

 

OK I just had this huge post about my experience with this and I accidentally erased it, so here goes again

I had the same experience as yourself NE and replacing the transmission torque mount fixed that.

Also, I drained/sucked out a 2-liter bottle worth of fluid on 2 seperate occasions and replaced it with the Mobile 3309 fluid which is essentially Volvo fluid as mentioned. They have a special pump they sell just for this job, but I used my own contraption. I didn't want to drain it completely because I didn't want to put up with the mess and so forth, and there was some debate about our older 01 V70 transmissions getting completely swapped with fluid and an almost kind of trauma because of it. So, I changed only part of the fluid and added this stuff:

http://www.lucasoil.com/products/dis...smission%20Fix

After alot of research on the web and forums and talking to Tech and a few others here, I tried this stuff and it worked great. After a couple of weeks, the other problem I had (high RPM transmission slip) went away completely

You HAVE to check the fluid level while the engine is running and preferably at normal operating temperature. Just be careful about the radiator fan, as it's easy to get a sleeve or something caught in it while sticking your hand down there to pull the cap. Your arm will most-likely make contact with the throttle body and even though it's not scorching hot, it's hot enough to give you a few rugburn rashes.

This is the SHORT version of what I just typed When I have time, I'll add to it. I've been fighting with my V70 transmission for 9 months since I bought this car, and it's at the point NOW where it's working like new, and I didn't have to take it to the dealer or a mechanic. I'm an amateur mechanic but I've learned enough just on this forum to do my own timing belt, my own suspension and various other things I've never attempted before. There is always someone here that knows something about everything ;-)

 

Here's an example of a device you can buy to suck the fluid out of the transmission, although I've seen similar ones for around $20 to $30:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MityV...motiveQ5fTools

Since people have said putting all new fluid in actually causes the transmissions to not work as well afterwards, I just changed about half of it. I know it's not the right thing to do, but it worked for me.

BTW My FWD 01 V70 has 86k on it right now, but only had 67k when I bought it.

 

Pulling the drain plug also works. The first trans flush I did, I pulled the top return line off the radiator (spent a half hour trying to remove the line and 5 minutes doing the flush) getting 2 quarts at a time. The other time I did it, I drained and filled. It worked out to be nearly 3 quarts exactly. I did it at the same time as the oil.

 

There was a reason I didn't just drain it. I don't remember specifically what it was, but there was some reason I couldn't do it the normal way. Don't ask me why now. I think it's because I didn't have all the fluid or had a hard time finding the amount I needed.

According to the manual, the transmission takes between 6 to 7 quarts of fluid. I figure by now half is new and half is old. According to people on here, draining it conventionally only removes half of the fluid from the system. The only way to change it completely would be to use a flush kit like this:

http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-V70XC70-...-127-389-1052/

I'm no expert at it though, obviously by the way I did it

 

I think I'd still be looking if it wasn't for your pics! Thanks so much!

 

Hello,

I just bought a 2002 V70 station wagon with 143K miles.

The person owned it for 4 yrs, said his wife only drove it to work everyday (10 min away).

He said he only changed Oil and filter.

Car is in very good shape. No issues.

2 things I want to ask about:

1- I need to check and I would think flush the transmission fluids since I don't know how old it is.

I watched the youtube videos and it seems it is a lot of wasted and expensive fluid to do this job.

Shall I change it or flush it completely?

The old links on tools to help with sucking the old fluid out don't work and I can't see to find anything on ebay.

Any recommendations on this ?

And which fluid to use, does it have to be Synthetic and Volvo ?

2- The glass for the Left side headlight is broken. I see 2 different thoughts on this....some people say you have to replace the entire light assembly as it is a sealed unit.

Then I see listings for just the glass and clips and rubber seal.

Which is correct ?

Thanks for the help as I know next to nothing about Volvos.

 

A month goes by and you were left twisting in the wind.

1) I'd do a drain & fill and thus get a good look at the fluid. If the fluid is filthy you can then get organized for subsequent drain & fills or a complete pump out (flush).

Both are easy to do. Drain & fills are easier and doing one every 1,000 miles or so is appealing. Have a 24mm wrench and the 18mm washer / sealing gasket ready.

However, many espouse to pumping all the fluid out all at the same time. Disconnection of a cooling line (+replacing 2 O rings and having a standby clip) is all that's needed.

Suction through the dipstick tube is a slow process. I recommend unscrewing the drain plug as it is so fast and effective.

2) I know people who've replaced just the glass. Do what you can with the parts available.

 

What do you mean by "Replaced just the glass" what glass are you talking about ??

 

Headlamp lense glass.

Some are replaceable separately from the body of the headlamp.