Ok, I fixed the host of problems on this newly aquired 98 V70 AWD. It has finally stopped throuwing codes and I need to get emissions in order to get license plates. I drove it for 50+ miles last night and still has sensors "not ready". I know there is a way to simulate the drive cycle, but that is close to impossible where I live. How many normal miles do I have to drive to get it into ready mode?


The catch 22 is that I am driving with no plates. In order to get plates, it needs to pass emissions. In order to pass emissions, it needs to be driven. When you drive without plates, cops get all pissy.[:@]

 

my state offers a 10 day temporary plate for emmissions testing purposes?

 

Tacket

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Ok, found this and it got me through emissions... in case anyone wonders:

Start with the vehicle cool, below 122 degrees F.
Turn off the air conditioning.
Select a location where the driving can be done without violating traffic laws and you can stop safely at the side of the road.

1. Start the engine and accelerate to approximately 1500-2000 rpm.
2. Drive for 6 minutes at 1500-2000 rpm.
3. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 70 seconds.
4. Accelerate to at least 45mph and drive for 5 minutes at 1800-2200 rpm.
5. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 60 seconds.
6. Accelerate to at least 45 mph and drive for 4 minutes at 1800-2200 rpm.
7. Stop the vehicle and remain at idle in drive for 60 seconds.
8. Park the vehicle and turn off the engine. [align=right]
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[:@][:@][:@][:@]

P0455 > ME

This code is like Herpes............


Drove 60 friggen miles and P0455 has had another outbreak [:@][:@]

 

Is there no option? Cops are getting pissy about me driving around without tags.......

 

Sorry but thats the only way to get the cycle completed.

 

so, unless I do this process, it will never go into ready mode? I have at least 5 stop signs before I get out of my development therefore making 1500-2000 for 6 minutes impossible.

 

I know it is a super PITA to get it done.
But that is pretty much the only way.
How do you plan to get it inspected if you have no tag on it?

 

IN GA, you buy the car and take the title and emissions test to the title/tag office and leave with a plate.

You have 30 days to get a tag on it or get fined $250 here. I have been chasing EVAP codes for the better part of 3 weeks now and have them resolved. I drove about 100 miles over a period of 3 or 4 days and all sensors finally made it to "ready" at about 9PM last night. At about 9:30, I whopped on it a little and it bogged. As it bogged, it tosses a P0243 and PO245............

It's been fine for a week ofabuse now. So, back to square one. I checked all the vac. lines and cleared the codes. Its (of course) running fine.

It is leaking some coolant behind the motor though. I cannot pinpoint where it is coming from. It's final decent is roughly just below the turbo. The lines coming from the firewall are dry. [:@][:@]

This car is exactly why we have a Mazda and a Ford.

 

Check the pipe along the top back of the motor. There is a rubber on online with a metal one.

Sucks that all was good then it threw the codes again.

Maybe it is leaking through the fuel pump housing.

 

I went to get my 98 S90 smogged. Failed 1st time due to P0455 vacuum leak. Fixed it and reset the OBDII. Went back 2 more times after doing a modified drive cycle, both times they said the OBDII was not ready. Couldn't read anything. Contacted Volvo USA customer service and they sent me the 8 page instructions from the Service Manual. Below is what I did to get almost all of my OBDII codes to read OK (according to AutoZone - I'll take it to the Smog Station on Tuesday & let you know if I Don't pass).
This should work for 1996 - 1998 850, 960, C70, S/V70 & S/V90

1: The most important thing to do 1st is do a "Flywheel Adaption" reset. This is easy. While your driving and there is no one behind you put the car in either 3rd or Low and speed up to 3000 - 3500 RPMs then take your foot all the way off the gas and coast to around 1500 - 2000 RPMs. Do this a bunch of times. I did it 10 - 12 times in Low and then 10 - 12 time in 3rd on the freeway. I even did it a couple of times in Drive on the freeway, getting up to around 80 and coasting down to around 50.
I did this over a 3 day period. I did it a lot because I don't have any electronic instruments to tell me if I've completed this step or not. If this doesn't get reset then doing the drive cycle is worthless.

The next steps you should do on a subsequent day.

Preliminaries: Gas tank should be between 1/4 & 3/4 full. All accelerations should be gradual, no jack rabbit starts, pretend there's a ripe tomato between your foot and the gas pedal. Try to keep your throttle position as constant as is reasonable. I had a little variation, but again, all adjustments to keep speed were very gradual. Braking should also be very gradual. A/C must be off during the idling periods. I had the A/C off the entire time & I should have had it on at least while I was doing the freeway part. DO NOT TURN OFF THE CAR UNTIL THE ENTIRE DRIVE CYCLE IS COMPLETED. Otherwise you will have to start the Drive Cycle over from the beginning.

Must start the drive cycle with a cool engine, between 84 & 112 degrees. I'm in Phoenix so my car is at least 84 in the morning, you may have to idle your car for a minute or so if the temperature is pretty cold in your area.

Drive Cycle:
A- Drive city streets trying to stay around 35 mph (in Drive) and having as few stops as possible. Accelerate gradually after a stop. I started at 5 am on a Sunday, little traffic which was helpful.
DO THIS FOR 6 MINUTES and then park somewhere and idle for about 90 seconds. Turn off the A/C while idling.

B- Do A again.

If you are going to use a freeway for the part C below, try to end up very near the freeway on ramp. Park somewhere and idle for 2 - 3 minutes ( I did 3 minutes).

C- Speed up to around 55 - 60 mph in Drive ( 1800 - 2200 rpm's) and try to keep the throttle position as constant as possible. You may want to turn your A/C on. OK for the speed and RPMs to vary a little but try to keep as constant as you can. Do this for 5 minutes. Pull over, turn off the A/C while idling and stop for 2 - 3 minutes (I did 3 minutes). I pulled on to the shoulder of the freeway. When stopping I used the brakes very gently, taking a long way to stop, probably about a 1/4 mile.

D- After the 2 - 3 minutes repeat C for 5 more minutes. Pull over and stop for 90 seconds remembering to turn off the A/C while you're stopped.

E- Now GENTLY accelerate until your RPM's are between 1800 - 2000 in Drive, but try not to go higher than that while you're accelerating, don't worry if it's a little over, and then coast to a stop. It's OK to VERY GENTLY brake to help to slow down but the coasting is an important part of the cycle so we don't want to cut it short. Repeat this for a total of 5 times. If you're on the freeway, try to end up on or near an off ramp. When you come to a stop, idle (with A/C off) for 2 - 3 minutes.

If you had an OBDII reader you could check to see if this completed the Drive cycle. I did not have one
so...

F- Go back to step A and do the whole thing again.

When you finish the 5th "coast to a stop" part of E, idle for 2-3 minutes and the go to the next step G.

You can do this next step in 3rd or like I did, in Drive. MPH's refer to what I did but the RPM's are what are important.

G- Accelerate to 55 - 60 mph (1800 - 2200 RPMs) in Drive and drive for 2 minutes.
H- Accelerate to 85 mph (3000 - 3500 RPMs.) for 30 seconds then coast back to 55 - 60.
I- Maintain the 55 - 60 mph for 2 more minutes then repeat H for 30 seconds.
J- Coast down to 65 - 70 mph (2300 - 2500 RPM's) and drive for 2 minutes.

That should do it. I drove immediately to an AutoZone & they were able to see that almost all the codes were reading ready & OK. If this had not worked I would have gone back to the very beginning with the Flywheel Adaption Reset.

As of May 2013, the Local Volvo Dealer guys want $360 to $400 to do this for you. I asked if they would check to see if my Flywheel Adaption was ready, but they would not. A non dealer Volvo repair shop said they would check it for me, & had this not worked that would have been my next step. They would have charged $300 to do this entire procedure but would have checked the Flywheel reading for free. It took every bit of an hour and a half to do the drive cycle.

I hope this is helpful to somebody.

 

Update. Passed smog test, all OBDII reset and working properly. This drive cycle works! Make sure to do the "Flywheel Adaption" reset, that's what made the difference.