Hi all, I'm looking for some help. I've got a 99 v70r that has been overheating, and I'm looking for some suggestions of what to look at next.

I'm trying to get this solved ASAP, because I REALLY need my car up & running for the weekend (plans for my birthday with my girlfriend)

Before I go on, I want to point out, I'm no mechanic, not by far, so please feel free to treat me like an idiot or point out flaws in anything I say. Thus far, we've been troubleshooting based on help from family, but may be completely barking up the wrong tree.

Ok, so background on what's going on. (this may or may not be related to the overheating problem). There was an odor coming from the heating system, which we believed to be caused by a leak in the heater core. Some stop leak was put in the system (note: car was not using volvo coolant, but standard green type coolant). Very shortly (24 hours or so) after the stop leak was put into the coolant system, the car started running hot. There was a visible sludge in the reservoir, so we went under the assumption that it may have gunked up the system somewhat & decided to flush it & start with new coolant.

So, after flushing the rad (yay! no more gunk) the car is still overheating, obviously this was not my problem.

An attempt was made to replace the thermostat, but one of the torx bolts got rounded, and we can't get the housing off. (side note: good suggestions for removing it would also be greatly appreciated.. I assume I'm going to have to drill it our or something at this point, but I was scared to do that.. can't get it with vice grips)

I was told though, that by checking the top rad hose as the car is warming up, if it gets hot, it's likely the thermostat is working? not sure if this test is valid, but the tip rad hose does get hot.

Now, as far as the car overheating goes, if I drive it for more than a few minutes, (10-15 will do it) it'll heat up to redline (if I let it) I've been able to fend this off though, just by cranking the heat on full to dissipate the heat. This will bring it down to a "normal" temp.. but, of course, isn't the most comfortable for the driver/passenger.

One thing brought up, was the possibility of air in the system? airlock or whatever? Is this a possibility? and how would one bleed it off if it is?

So... . I am looking for suggestions of other troubleshooting methods, things to check, etc etc etc.

If the thought is to just to go right to the thermostat, any help/ideas for the bolt would be great.

Note: if you mention any parts to fix/test/replace, please also let me know approximate prices, and where to find (ie: if it's something dealer-only? I don't have a dealer too handy to me right now)

Thanks for any help! much appreciated!

 

I would do everything I can to get the thermostat housing off.
But be very careful doing it as well. They are known to break at the block if it is hit to hard.
Try to find a really good torxes but to try again.(Snap-on Mac ETC)
You might need to start removing engine parts to get to it easier.

 

replace the thermostat and flush the system really well to get the stop leak out.

Nick

 

Your Radiator is blocked, even though you flushed it, it is still
blocked full of gunk....
My dad had the same problem, he ended up changing out the radaitor..
I wish you luck...

v70 2.4t

 

I have the same feeling as v70 2.4t does. I myself never consider using any stop-leak stuff into any of the fluid lines. However, you may be able to get those gunk out by power-flushing the radiator. But if you can afford to, I would replace the radiator, as well as the heater core.

A parts source:

http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo.htm#c70

To get the stripped Torx out, I would first like to know how badly it is stripped. If itis beyond help, I would spray some PB Blaster, let it soak for a few hours and hit the Torx head with a small chisel & hammer, aiming it at CCW (Counter-Clock Wise). But do so little by little, as Tech said that it may do more damage than good. If the Torx head is not too bad, try different types of bits or one size larger/smaller Torx. If these don't help, you'll have to drill it out. Some members here know good method as to using something like Easy-Out (though EO seems to have poor reputation).

I hope this is of some use. BTW, Volvo coolant is not a mandatory; aftermarket coolant should be fine, I usually use Prestone.

Edit: If V70 uses similar cooling system set-up as 850 does, the air should be purged on its own, as the reservoir is at the highest point of the system. Some cars have bleed port but not on 850.


JPN

 

with the torx, if the head of the bolt is sticking up (not flush), you can grab it with vice grips and take it out.

Nick