Hi all,
Joined the group a few years back after buying a V70R. The car turned out to be a disaster but I still love the V70 and am starting to shop. I am going to look for a regular V70 FWD for around 8000 US. My basic question is if there are any real problems I need to know regarding this model. I think I'll stay away from AWD for now and will probably prefer non-turbo over turbo. This will be my new commuter car replacing a VERY reliable 89 Mazda 929
which is going to my 16 Y.O. son. Commute is about 600 miles a week. I need reliable easy to fix transportation. I can service my cars for the most part, timing belts included. The V70 is the best riding car I've ever driven and I really want to boxy wagon type car. I may also consider a late model 850 as long as it has exceptionally low mileage. Even a V70R would be considered but I'd have to be overwhelmed. I don't car much for the SUV looks of the XC. AWD scares me due to storied regarding the angle drive. Turbos bother me due to leaks and hi test fuel. Advice openly sought and I'll be a contributor shortly. I do like working on cars and am not too bad at it either.

Thanks,
Rich

 

These are nice, non turbo is good. Not many problems.

 

I run my 01 V70 T5a (high pressure turbo) on regular, (yes I drive like the old man I am). When i need the power, it's there, I would stay away from the 01-03 as they have had transmission issues, but mine has been flawless. I had the computer up graded to remove the neutral at idle feature before the car had 5,000 miles at the recommendation of my dealer, and have done DIY drain and fills at 70K and 100K. The electronic throttle is also an issue, but can't say what years. Again mine is still good, but when it does go, there is a brushless replacement you can do yourself for around 6-700.

Jerry

 

Hello, Do a search on transmissions as per checksix's post. Your $8,000 budget will go a long way if you buy a P1 car (Platform 1 -2000). You'll have money left over to refresh the car-suspension, engine oil leaks,interior and fluids. Skipping 2001-2003 will increase your asking prices. You might get exercise replacing the heater core and/or A-C evaperator in the car you find. Gone will be the secondary air pump if you go non-turbo. I'm pretty sure about that one. If the V70 you get has one then drill the 0.25" hole in the bottom for drainage. Maintenance records are a must. Pre-purchase inspection sould include a visit to a Volvo dealer to see if updates were downloaded. On these boards the dream car a 1998 (pre ETM) V70 with 2,000 miles in your favorite color for $500. Happy shopping. Kira

 

I would not recommend regular fuel in a NA either; my 850 NA has 10.5:1 compression ratio; you'll make those knock sensors work overtime with regular!

I run mid-grade in both mine; works very well...

 

I just bought a 2005 V70 2.5T Sport and it is the best car I have ever driven. Smooth quiet powerful when you step into it but very comfortable to commute in. The one I bought has 50K miles and cost me $12700.00 I looked at Audi's and Subaru's and Mazda's and the V70 just outdid them all. A little more than your $8000.00 but perhaps in the US you could find one for 8 or 9K. I am hoping the turbo will not give me problems but I am learning on this site every day. Good luck

 

I talked to a Volvo specialist regarding the turbo and now am open to the turbo also. I've raised my budget to 15K. I'll still stay away from AWD though. A lot of hardware and complexity for the occasional snow issues here. I'l use my 4WD truck in nasty weather. The hunt is beginning now as I'll be going back to work soon after a 2 month surgery induced vacation. I'm going to buy the best I can with deferance to low-mileage and good service records. Time for a new ride !

 

Easy to maintain/fix doesn't describe newer Volvos too well. While replacing windshield wiper blades is easy, much beyond that gets excessively complex in my opinion. Even air filter is a "tight squeeze". Plugs are "buried" under a multi-piece cover, PCV equivalent buried on back side of engine, transmission has no easily visible dipstick, oil filter isn't a spin on kind (replaceable cartridge goes into permanent housing), and it seems most every electrical circuit runs through a computer box. Replacing headlamp bulbs seems to require tool steel fingers much thinner than The Terminator's , but of similar design. And, at least on my '06, you have to remove a panel before you can work underneath the engine compartment. (It does keep things clean, but its an extra step).
Trans fluid changes (never needed per Volvo hahahahaha) require the job to be done three times (drain, refill, drive; repeat; repeat). Using only one type of fluid -- Mobil 3309 spec.

Its not exactly a 1968 Chevy straight 6 with Powerglide trans in a large Impala engine compartment, if you get the analogy.

Other quirks noted here include suspension bits (tie rod ends, bushings) wear out, motor mounts ditto. While I haven't done it, things like alternator don't look too easy to reach, and the auxillary drive belt (formerly called fan belt) doesn't look like a piece of cake, either.

That being said, carefully check this useful forum to see problem years/areas. Many recommend avoiding 2001 at all costs, and some aren't too fond of 2002 models, either. My 06 has performed flawlessly through 50,000 miles with only one tie rod end being replaced under warranty.

 

Hello, In the order you mentioned: If the air cleaner box(1) is a "tight squeeze" and the plugs(2)"burried", then you must have trouble tieing your shoes. The PVC breather box(3)is under the intake manifold-in the front of the engine-and requires some disassembly. I'll give you that one. Once you see the dipstick(4), it's easily seen. You must have a turbocharged car. Complaining about the cartridge filter(5)?; are you serious? The over-computerization(6) of these, and other, cars is unforgiveable. Two for you. Headlamp bulbs(7) are not that hard. Remember; the air box lifts straight out for access. The splash shield(8) which protects the engine, is a great idea and weighs all of 6 ounces. My car didn't have one and I made one from scrap industrial belting. My engine is finally clean. Changing of transmission fluid(9) can be done via the "self powered" method by removing a transmission cooling line and extending it with $3 worth of tubing. JWS 3309 is more widely available than it was ,say, 2 years ago. CAUTION: Never go to a generic Monkey Lube place for a trannie fluid change with these cars. The owners don't care. The meth heads they hire can't care. Merely mentioning it gets them twisted up for real. Finding an independant mechanic who knows a little about various foreign cars should be within the capabilities of someone who wants to own a better car. It is true that many of the differences between domestic and foreign cars is evaporating.
Suspension bits, motor mounts, alternator and auxillary drive belts(10-14) are no more difficult or prone to failure than other cars. Okay, maybe the ONE tie rod end you had replaced. I think I have one to be replaced too; at 115K.
So, to recap; It's 12 for the liberal, soccer mom, foreign car buying coast dwelling scum who want to destroy America (I listen to hate radio occasionally, I know what they say) and 2 for the guy who thinks America should live in the past. Long live wife-beating, cigarettes and brass radiators. Kira

 

OK, in truth the maintenance aspects of the V70 don't scare me much. I've owned a V70R and did a boatload of maintanance on the thing and even though it was my first Volvo, I never really got stuck taking care of it. In hind sight, I should have kept it but after a drive shaft failure (US$1000) and angle gear noise (would have been US$3500) I just went into financial meltdown and sold it. Having said that, yeah there are some oddities caring for the car but I already have 2 cases of 3309 (mistakenly bought for my 98 V70R, no I didn't use it) and have some wierd kind of clamping tool for the hose clamps and such. This group and others are better than most mechanics for getting through any maintenance work. Going to look at a car today, 12K 2004, 75000 miles. Offer 8 and see how it plays.
Thanks.