I need to replace the Torque Tube bushing on my 1998 V70 GLT/AWD. I have the part, now what's involved? What needs to be removed/re-installed to do this? Specialized tools required? I've found diagrams, but no instructions anywhere on web.

http://carrepairphotos.shutterfly.com/pictures/11

http://carrepairphotos.shutterfly.com/pictures/9

 

Hi,
i have to do the same thing. I will start removing the old first then will figure out how to install new one
Alex

 

I couldn't find any instructions either, so I just went at it tonight and finished in a couple hours, figuring out what I needed along the way. If I had to do it again it would probably take 30-45 minutes.

1. The bushing replacement can be done on without removing the torque tube.

2. Remove the 17mm bolt going through the bushing and hang onto the washer. This is a long bolt w/a lot of thread engagement, so an impact wrench is quite useful.
--> I found that after removing the bolt & washer that the rubber of the bushing was no longer connected to the outer metal band...I could push the rubber straight through and removed it from the backside of the torque tube flange.

3. I then had to remove the outer metal band that was still pressed into the torque tube. I used a hacksaw to saw through most of the thickness of the band then used an air chisel with a good point to persuade the band out the back as well. If your bushing separated from the metal like mine, hang on to the metal band...you'll need it later).

4. I used some 400-grit sandpaper to clean up the scratches left behind after my band removal process, which left the surface nice and smooth.

5. In order to press in the new bushing you need to have a "backer" to temporarily put in between the backside of the torque tube and the boss that you just removed the bolt from. I took a scrap of 2x4 and traced the diameter of the bushing onto the surface. Using a spade bit on my drill, I hollowed out about an inch deep of the wood slightly larger than the traced diameter. Then I trimmed the 2x4 into a roundish shape, leaving about 0.1 inch of wall thickness around the hollowed out hole. Instead of this wood method, you could also use a 2.5 inch metal pipe cap, but it was late and I didn't want to leave the garage.

6. After putting the wood block between the backside of the torque tube and the boss I pushed the new bushing as much as I could into the torque tube. It won't go far at all because of the press fit, but enough to hold it in place. I then took the metal band from the old bushing (see step 3) and lined it up with the band on the new bushing. Below the old metal band I put the big washer from step 2.

7. Using a hydraulic bottle jack, jack against the big washer and the bushing will slowly press into place. Make sure to seat it flush with the flange on the torque tube...don't set it too deep.

8. Once it's in place, remove the block of wood (or pipe cap) and reinstall the mounting bolt and washer....You're all done and your clunk should be gone.

 

I did this job recently. I was reluctant to put a block of wood or anything else behind the torque tube as I could see no way to get this to work without putting all the pressure on the plastic fuel tank - which I really didn't want to do.

I ended up removing the entire torque tube. It wasn't as big of a job as you might think. Once it was off the car it was pretty easy to use my vice and install the bushing and then put everything back together.

You need a LOT of extensions to reach the top bolts that bolt the torque tube to the diff. The bolt here is 14mm.

I found no way to get the torque tube off without also removing the driveline stuff inside (Viscous coupler and freewheel) though the documentation says you can.

Mark the two flanges before you disassemble anything so you get it back together the same way it came apart.

The main flange bolt on the front of the tube is 30mm and the smaller screws that bolt the freewheel flange to the diff flange is a 6mm inset hex - there are 6 of these.

There is a PDF that describes this process (including going further and taking the whole rear suspension out) here:
http://www.morgis.net/Volvoforum/Vei...lingskifte.pdf

 

These instructions were very helpful to "encourage" my local shop to perform the repair. No more thunk and eliminated the raspy sound when drivetrain was not torqued. Thanks for documenting your success.