Most of the oil trap writeups on the forums deal with the pre-2001 vehicles.

I figured I would add some lessons learned after I did my v70 2003.

My symptoms of the bad oil trap. Whistling and high suction on the oil cap. Had to use almost two hands to pull off the cap.

As a temp fix I pulled the dip stick out a little and this stopped the whistling, Check engine light came on (lean mixture). Car ran okay, stalled when stopping short but that's it.

Cost of parts About $80. Oil Trap, top hose to a sensor passenger side manifold (its visible), short tube to the block and regular hose claps.

Tools.
Must have a 1/4in drive, extensions, flex (!/4 in each side), 10mm socket.
This is for the manifold bolt near the sensor above. To make more room you can rip the hose off the sensor (this hose will be replaced). Guess you can take the water hose off (i didn't). Real difficult to get the sensor off, the back bolt is too difficult to fool around with.

Need a 3/8in drive extensions and flex 10mm, 12mm.

Biggest issue.

The quick connect on the fuel line. I called every volvo dealer in the area, spoke to the head service managers. No special tool to remove. I was told the connect was a european sytle. Most of the service managers didn't even know what I was talking about and the parts diagram called the piece a spacer.

Part of my problem in removing the connect was that I thought the disconnect was removed from the rail. I now know that the disconnect stays on the rail and that the fuel line (which has only a little play) is pulled from the connect.

To disconnect I ended up having to pull the injector rail out using a pick to release the connect from the line. As a followup I am again contacting Mac-tools and Snapon with a picture of the connect. When I spoke to them they said they didn't have any type of tool for the connect. Possibly seeing picture might help in finding a tool.

Other considerations.

After you remove all the intake bolts (don't remove the bottom bolts they are slotted) you think that the intake will lift out. There is another bracket (bolt 12mm) under the 2nd intake passenger side. You can see it from under the car. I took it the bolt off from under the car but was able to put the bolt back by snaking my arm under the manifold.

When you are ready to reassemble leave the bracket a little loose. This is so you can adjust the bracket to align with the hole.

I did not replace the intake gasket but tighten the bolts fairly tight. It is difficult to use a torque with extensions and impossible to use it on the bolt near the sensor.

When placing the injector rail back on make sure you grease the injector gaskets going into the intake. This will prevent cracking. I used motor oil to lube them. To install the rail line up the injectors push in driver side first working right to left. The connect just snaps in.

Before starting the job, pull the fuel pump fuse out and start the car. This will burn excess fuel in the lines. Also make sure you relieve the pressure using the pin on the rail, passenger side.

Of course disconnect the battery from the rear of the car after you purged the lines.

Make sure you allocate two days to do the whole job.

The check engine light was resolved after I finished.

Good Luck.

Madness

 

Hey madness

Since this is a big job, I have always wondered how do you know when to do this job early enough to avoid blowing various seals due to the clogged PCV? Is the oil cap suction test (using a piece of paper to check suction) early enough of a warning?

I have wondered if I need to do this for my car. I have no whistling sound or leaks on either of my 01s. One at 115k miles with ETM done 25k miles ago and the dealer cleaned the PCV system then. The other one is at 85k miles and probably never been cleaned. I run mobile 1 synth on both cars.

 

I have had a 740 88 and have a s70 98.

The symptoms for these cars which have a flame trap were that I had positive crankcase pressure which manifested in the oil dipstick being pushed out or oil pushing out of the cap. With these cars it is easy to tell flame trap was clogged because the pressure blew out.

On my 2003 a maintenance item at 95k is a oil trap change. On this car, no flametrap, and tube goes into the block rather than sump. The problem with a clogged oil trap was suction not pressure pushing out.

On the earlier models the issue is with the seals blowing out. On the 2003, once the whistling started I pulled the dipstick out a little and did not develop any leaks. I drove it over a week.

 

Wow. That's where I'm at right now- the disconnect. Anything new on this?? I honestly can't imagine how you got it with a pick tool. I'm trying. Maybe if I had 4 picks and 6 hands...

Anyone?

So far, I've only broken one vacuum line. Easy enough to repair (not going to replace).

I'll post pics if anyone is interested, I'm going to have lunch with the wife right now. Back in a bit.

 

Got the disconnect disconnected. Now, I find out I have the wrong oil trap...

I swear. I have not got the correct part yet for anything I have ordered.

I wish I could invest in restocking fees.

 

Vee7eventy, where are you getting parts from that is the problem, and what are you driving? The few items I've ordered from FCP Groton and Darrell Waltrip have been PERFECT with never an issue. (strut seat replacements, full tune up and several timing belt changes) over 2 different cars (98 S70 and 2001 V70 T5a).

Jerry

 

The car is a 02 N/A V70. The biggie was the radiator (I ordered from Radiator Classic). The oil trap came from eEuroparts. Price was right, I just couldn't verify the part until I tore the car apart, which I did after I received the oil trap- it was for a turbo model.

If I had the money to go to the dealer and buy parts, I would be sporting a V70R for sure. 100% certain of it.

SO- I will adjust my buying habits to eBay (shudder) where you at least have some protection. eBay refunded the restocking fee difference after convincing them it was listed improperly.

 

Darrell Waltrip is a dealer and provides very competitive prices. Check it out next time you need something then factor in Factory vs. ?????? No I don't work for them nor am associated in any manner. Just a very satisfied customer!

Jerry

 

Thanks - saved lots of time. Took it to the car wash and pressure washed the engine before starting. Was able to get to that nasty passenger side intake manifold bolt with a cheap short 1/4" drive 10mm socket and extension. The passenger side bolt on the flame trap cannot be seen. Use 1/4" drive 10mm socket and extension. Fish between the intake support bracket and the flame trap.

Thanks again.