Is AW-1 the correct tranny fluid for the xc60 ? I see that AISIN fluid is advertised but it does not say AW-1 on the container.

 

What year, engine and trans?

 

its a 2013 XC60 B6324S4 engine. Is the tranny label located on top ? Plus do you have to remove the air cleaner box to see it?

 

Volvos part number is below, type "WS"

 

it is the TF80SC

 

It is the TF 80SC tranny

 

 

My last 6 chassis numbers are 406830 which suggest fluid T-IV in the TF 80 SC tranny, according to SwedeSpeed. SwedeSpeed claims that type fluid WS is a good middle ground. Since I live in warm southern Calif, hot temperature is what I should worry about. I was wondering what your thoughts were?

 

Hoonk.
Very sorry to bother you again. 3rd battery change in 8 days. I had a 2022 battery in my 2013 XC60 it went dead, it read 6VDC. Because the battery was still under warranty, I received a free replacement. The new battery replacement was installed on 9/30/23 read 12.6 VDC static. On the 7th of Oct the new replacement battery (car alarm went off because of the BMS telling the ECM that the new battery was at 4VDC) was dead again after 8 days. When the engine is running, the alternator charge at the battery is 14.2VDC at first then gradually going down to 13.8VDC, so there was a good charge going to new the new battery. I noticed in the mornings 10/1-10/5 that the battery was at 11.35VDC static and I could see a slow drain to my battery using my fluke meter.. I now 10/7/2023 have another new (free) replacement battery, This is number 3 battery in 8 days. So I now assumed I have a very serious parasitic drain, or I do not know the CORRECT procedure to do the BMS application. . I did the "wait 30 seconds" with the 2nd replacement battery (engine off ignition on). But i would not think if I did the BMS incorrectly that the battery would drain. I saw an article online, showing that (when changing to a new battery) there is a specific procedure using a VIDA external diagnostic tool. Is there no way to install a new battery on the XC60 without that tool? My windows all work fine as I do not have auto windows and I looked at the receiving antenna and see no openings in the mounting sealant. I have not yet put in this 3rd battery, as I'm not 100% confident that i can locate this strong drain (if it is that) before the battery is dead again. Thanks for any comments/suggestions you have

 

Another point if i may. I also did the turn light **** on. then hit the switch 6X then did the flasher button. but never did see the battery symbol come on.

 

Sounds like the alternator is charging. - But the alternator (on that 6 cyl engine) is known to loosen it's drive pulley (on the engine) when the overrun clutch on the alternator does not work properly. Then it slips and battery goes dead.
Is your fluke an inductive ammeter? If so open all the doors and trunk, close the hood, latch all the doors and trunk (so they register as closed). Lock car and check for a drain on the system after waiting for all modules to turn off.
Many a battery has been replaced without resetting that. How many amps is it using when locked and off? There has always been talk of the sattelite radio module creating problems, but I've never seen that.
Someone has posted a you tube video (here and on sweedespeed) of how to reset it without a special tool. I've never tried that method.

 

hoonk,
WOW, I just lost my big write up, so I will start again. Here is the results of my unsuccessful parasitic drain location on my 2013 XC60. Hooked up my Fluke DMM (non-clamping) in series on ADC setting (probe correctly attached in A/mA) Neg post to Neg battery terminal, DMM fluctuates wildly 080-0844mA and fluctuates all the time, never stops, like a capacitor charging and discharging. I pulled ALL (fuse panel locations - engine, 2ea in glove box area and cargo area ) fuses 1 by 1, and did not see even a slight difference in parasitic readings. I then tried the voltage drop test (moved my DMM probe as appropriate) on each fuse to see of I could read a draw on any 1 fuse. Only F14 by glove box saw a 0.002 indication, every other fuse read 0000. So both test show no parasitic drain going on. What I have yet to try is the Alternator diode check (do I have to remove the intake manifold to get at the alternator post?) I also have not pulled any relays yet. I made sure that all lights were off, all doors closed and waited 30 minutes for the modules to settle down. I even went out at night and saw only the alarm light blink and the start stop switch to blink on occasion (which I thought was strange). After I did the youtube on installing a new battery and resetting the BMS I can only assume that this works. Or do I HAVE TO do the VIDA thing to reset the battery? The first battery was installed by Kragen and I don't if they knew what they were doing. The 2nd battery I replaced and pulled off the BMS clip for 20 seconds. The third battery I replaced this time using the youtube instructions. Am I just flogging a dead horse? Maybe I do not have a problem at all? I have seen the new (3rd) battery show as high as 12.7Vac right after starting the car for 10 minutes. Then after 2 hours 12.56Vac in the daytime and by the next morning it is down to 12.13Vac.

 

My 2013 xc60 Car has 74K. When I go to do a serpentine belt/idler pulley/water pump change, I'm guessing that i should do a alternator decoupler with that small belt change as a preventative maintenance measure. I'm ordering the removal tool right now.

 

HOONK,
I pulled off the pos and neg connections on the battery, but with the thick wire still connected to the Alternator, I get a diode reading of .433V and in the other direction I get 1.4450V. Because the main wire to the Alternator is still hooked up yet both battery pos and neg are disconnected I was not completely this is a good enough method to do that diode check of the alternator. I was doing my best to not have to remove the intake manifold . any comments

 

Hoonk,
FYI My neighbor has a 2013 Honda and the battery went dead. A new battery was installed and i noticed that the car had a battery monitoring system. The old battery, when the car was running, showed that the alternator was putting out 14 +voltage to the battery, When the new battery was installed, the alternator showed 12.3 volts output. The car sat overnight and the next day she took it to Honda..........Honda told her everything was ok including the Alternator. Here is the Question: Is this the same senario for Volvos?

 

A fully charged battery (since it does not really need anymore electrons) will charge at a much lower voltage. A discharged battery will charge at at higher voltage.

 

Hoonk.
My 2004 van has an old battery that statically measures 12,65VDC and when running the alt shows 14.6VDC. XC60, I just did a 10 min step by step looking at the lights, opening doors running ALL window. tailgate, and when the car is running the alternator measures between 12.40 VDC and 12.92VDC, When The xc60 is shutoff for 30 minutes it measures 12.45VDC. After running then, shutdown, I see 12.73 VDC and within 18 seconds I see 12.60VDC a quick drain. Within the 30 minutes it shows down to 12.45VDC. In 60 minutes it measured 12.40 VDC Should not my alternator at some point be going higher as I operate the different components? I tried to read the (diode) ALT with the cable off the battery but not off the ALT. My 2 readings were .433 and 1.450 but because the main wire was still attached to the Alternator and the battery cable disconnected I was not sure this would read properly.

 

Hoonk,
Sorry, the wife took the first drive in our xc60 non turbo, non diesel, 2013 for a long drive and ran the tank down to the low light. I want to replace the Fuel filter as a precautionary measure. I have found nothing on line as to its location. I pulled off the belly pan and gave a serious look at the rear of the vehicle and found nothing. Where is this little stinker located please.

 

Hoonk would you happen to have the 2013 xc60 B6324S4 torque specs? Specifically thermostat, water pump, alternator bolts, intake manifold. I saw a spec sheet for the S60 but nothing for the XC60.
thanks

 

Does anyone have the 2013 xc60 B6324S4 torque specs? Specifically thermostat, water pump, alternator bolts, intake manifold. I saw a spec sheet for the S60 but nothing for the XC60.
thanks