What are the specs for resistance and volts for a cam and crankshaft sensor? Im getting mixed numbers from various of people saying that crank sensors should have anywhere between 550 to 750 ohms and or 120 ohms....

 

Here's some of what Vida has - 3rd page is the legend at the beginning of the chart - there's a free Vida download over on swedespeed, and other places.

 

Hoonk, you are like a volvo knowledge god haha, thank you very much for the posts! I did a resistance check on my crank sensor, and a volt check on my cam. Crank came to 123.0 ohms, and Cam (1 and 3, black and red or top) came out to be 5 v, by my understanding that should be 12v, and 1 and 2 (signal im assuming, black and middle) is 5v.

 

All of that came from the free stolen/hacked copy of 2014D VIDA (Volvo's factory service manual) that a download of is easily found. Swedespeed has a download listed in their OBD Canbus section.

 

Since my camshaft sensor isnt getting the juice it needs.... is there a fuse for it or a relay? I've looked on multiple sites and couldnt find an answer. If anyone cna post a diagram of connections of the camshaft sensor that would be amazing also!

 

Here a wiring diagram and legend - the cam sensor is 7/21. The wiring diagram is included in a complete copy of VIDA. VIDA also includes diagnostic suggestions for codes/components, and step by step how to replace stuff.

 

I'm assuming the relay is IN the ECM itself... I'm a complete noob at electrical, but thats what im assuming from the schematic youve shared

 

What are you trying to solve?

 

Why my camshaft position sensor is only getting 5.08 mv instead of 12V, at the moment i'm trying to find a schematic of the wiring for the camshaft. Haynes manual doesnt help at all -.-

 

Does the engine start and run? And doesn't the chart I posted previously titled "284 Signal Description ME7 B5244t3" show that at pin #a47 for the camshaft position sensor to expect 5 volts either with key on or running? (I do realize you posted 5.08 mv)

 

Car does not start, it cranks, and I saw that, but I thought that meant from the signal voltage, not the 1 and 3 voltage.

 

Cam sensors were a common replacement item in the 91-98 850/960/svc70s - I don't remember ever seeing a bad one on the 99+ cars. Actually I just checked my sales history, I sold 1 99+ cam sensor on a 2000 s80 with 60k miles on it, and there was a code stored for the cam sensor. I sold 89 cam sensors for 91-98 cars between 1999 and 2018.

I trust you have verified compression, checked cam timing, checked fuel pressure - volume and quality (it is pumping water or air?) injector pulse with a noid light and spark?

 

I have checked compression, 180 on cylinder 1, the other 4 have 190, Fuel pressure is good, no contamination as far as i can tell, and as far as injectors, they all pump out about equal amount of fuel. Cam timing I haven't checked yet, but also, I don't know when the last time this car had a tune up or its sensor replacements (other than o2, i've recently done those). Just to confirm though, on camshaft sensor, the prongs on 1 and 3 should read 12V correct?

 

O2 sensors have nothing to do with the car starting, the front one fine tunes the mixture to make the cat converter works properly after it heats up. And I have no idea what readings with a voltmeter on the cam sensor should be. Always relied on scans from VIDA, live data, codes - whatever was there to help diagnose what was wrong. But rarely used a volt/ohm meter. Had a tech that was fresh out of a 2 year tech program. (after his 4 year degree in film?) Anyway it took him a few years to put away that voltmeter that was constantly confusing him. So many bad/WRONG diagnosis he came up with - due to watching and misreading the numbers on his volt/ohm meter. The newer volt/ohm meters (the last 30 years) auto range - the numbers flash and fluctuate and you sometimes can't figure out what scale you are on -

Spark? Spray ether (starting fluid) into the intake and see if something happens (that will let you know everything works, cam timing, ignition, except the fuel delivery system).

 

Got spark, tried the starting fluid trick before, no go sadly

 

After some research and testing, this is what I got so far and ended up with. Camshaft sensor (ECM) side of plug is giving me 5.08 mv on plugs 1 and 3 (ground and supply voltage) plugs 1 and 2( ground and signal wire) is giving me 5.00 mv. Since mv=Millivolts i assume on a digital multimeter (DC Volts) Thats only 0.500 of a volt.. which is waayyyy below what I need of 5 volts for both. I suspect the ECM isn't sending enough power at all. So my question now is how to test the ECM without any fancy gadgets or anything?

 

Here's how these guys do it -

https://xemodex.com/us/volvo-engine-...on-by-xemodex/

 

"Without any fancy gadgets" At home common tools to use for testing... like a digital multimeter

 

So heres the update atm after a break of this car. Decided to step back a little and check the least cost first between the cam/crank sensors and the ECM, Crank sensor is good, but the Cam is a little funky. As I read, the supply and signal voltage should be 5V. For Supply voltage I checked the power coming from the female side and it is delivering its 5V. Plugged in the Camshaft sensor, turned the car on and back-probed from the Camshaft side for the supply voltage, got 5V. Now as I understand, electricity flows from positive>load>negative, which means from supply through trigger (or Signal). Unplugged, and car on, i get the reading of 5V from my signal wire from the Female side, but when I plug the Camshaft sensor in, and back-probe from the camshaft, I get 87.8mv.

So my 2 questions are this: 1- Is the signal voltage suppose to come from the female side or the Camshaft side? 2- Since the reading im getting is 87.8 mv, can i safely assume that the camshaft is bad?