Coincidence or???

About 100 miles after doing the timing belt job on the wife's 01 XC 70, she came home today and said the check engine light came on. She said the car ran great, but still the light is on. When I did the timing belt, I replaced it, the tensioner, the pulleys, the serpentine belt, tensioner, pulleys, water pump, spark plugs, air, oil, and fuel filters. Do you think any of the above could have caused the light to come on.

Now, I know this next question is probably easily found using the search function, but....How can I get the code read and the light reset without going to the dealer? I've heard Auto Zone will do it.

Also, I had a 97 Ford F-150 that would trip the check engine light about every 5000 miles like clockwork. Nothing was ever wrong, and the light would simply go out after about 10 starts. Might the Volvo do this as well if it was just a hiccup?

Thanks,

Glenn

 

i recently purchased a cheap generic code reader on ebay, about 50 bucks with shipping. i know this doesn't help in the short term but it is handy to have. i have heard autozone will read but not clear the codes, i guess there is probably a liability issue. i don't think there is a way to clear the codes without a reader.

is it the cel or the service indicator?

all your maintenance appears to be routine. is it possible you have a loose plug or wire? is it possible you knocked something loose while replacing the air filter? with the oil or fuel filter i think you would see an immediate problem.

 

Ok, I got a code reader from my neighbor (Who I didn't even know had one) The code that came up was P0014 Camshaft Position Actuator B - Timing over advanced +/- 1 degree.

So, I'm wondering if I got the tensioner a bit too tight or if it was a hiccup, or??? IKNOW the timing marks didn't move when I replaced the belt. Funny how it came on after 100 miles or so.

Anyway, I cleared the code and took a short spin and the light stayed off.

If it comes back on again, I'll read the code and if it is the same, how would I retard the timing...Mark the present position of the crank/cams, remove the belt, and move the crank one tooth? If so, which way would I move the crank, to the left or to the right?

Glenn

 

as i reviewed vadis, there is mention of temperature compensation. timing should be set with the engine at 68 degrees F. where are you located? is it cold or hot? i can email you a screen shot of the page from vadis, just pm me with your email address. this may or may not help your problem. at any rate it sounds like you might be digging into the timing cover again. if it is any consolation, the problem sounds relatively minor. any major timing issue would have crashed the valves into the pistons.

 

i forgot to mention, the vadis information i am referencing is for a my 2000. i can access you my with your vin.

 

I set the manual tensioner as per the service guide for 68 degrees (tensioner tab at the center of the window) but at the time, the outside temperature was about 57-60 degrees (close enough) Today when my wife had the light come on, the engine was warm, but the outside temperature was only about 45. I'm thinking it may be a tad too tight. I agree the problem is relatively minor. The car is running well right now, and like you said, if the timing was off too much, the valves and pistons would have crashed!

 

Recheck the timing.
Make sure nothing is off.

 

Well, I dug into it this afternoon and it looks like the timing may be off a tooth. Right now, I look at it and on the crankshaft gear it has TWO teeth with those little cut out notches on them (just likeon the 850, but the 850only has one) Anyway, those two notched crank gear teeth are at roughly the 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock positions respectively when the cam gears are at what appears to be the 12 o'clock position.

What I am going to do is take the belt off and try again. I'll leave the crank gear with its two notches right where it is at (with the notches at 11 and 1 o'clock) and make damn sure the cam timing marks are at 12 o'clock. My only question is that the rear most camshaft (nearest the firewall)appears to be spring loaded. I'm assuming that is the VVT cam. Does the timing mark on that spring loaded cam go to the 12 o'clock position without any spring pre load on it, or does it need to be set at the 12 o'clock position with some amount of spring load.

Thanks for the help (again) tech

Glenn

 

Forgot to mention, the light came back on today and the code was the same P0014 Camshaft Position Actuator B - Timing over advanced. Which cam is cam B? Sounds like that is the one that is off a tad.

Glenn

 

You will most likely need to hold the Rear cam at 12:00 to have it set correctly.
Some will stay on their own others you will need to hold. Cam B should be the Exhaust with the VVT.

One tooth off can throw the light on.

 

Tech,

Thanks for the confirmation that the exhaust was "Cam B" I'll be digging into it today as soon as it warms up a bit. If I am able to keep both cams at 12 o'clock and the two crank gear marks at 11 and 1 o'clock, I think I should be ok.

Funny how just one tooth off will trigger the light. The car ran great. Oh well, live and learn.

I'll keep you (and everyone else ) posted.

Thanks,

Glenn

 

Your Welcome
We will be waiting to hear from you.

 

Ok, I got it back together again. The crank marks (gear notches) are at roughly 11 o'clock and 1 o'clock, the intake cam timing mark is dead center on the top cover cutout, and the exhaust cam mark is at the forward most edge of the top cover cutout mark with no spring tension/preload on the VVT. Also, the tensioner mark is at the center of the window.
It started right up and idled fine, and ran fine on the test drive. After warm, the idle seems a touch lower than it was, especially if you are turning the wheel, but so far so good.

Last time it took a couple days each time to set the light, so I may have to wait a couple days for a final verdict. Therefore, I have not put the lower timing cover or spark plug covers on (just in case I have to go in.

Based on everything so far, if it still triggers a P0014 code, what is the next step? moving the exhaust cam a full tooth over?

Glenn

 

If it comes back then I would look at the Reset Valve bolted to the top of the Head.

 

Sure enough, it came back..... P0014 code. I looked at it just now, and all the marks are exactly where they were before. The exhaust cam mark is right at the very forward edge of the timing notch on the top cover. I'm thinking of moving the exhaust cam one tooth toward the back of the car (so the cam timing mark will be at the very back edge of the timing notch not the very front) What do you think.

Also, I will look at the Valve you mentioned. I see it is on the top of the head nearest the cam gears. Can I simply un bolt it or is it under pressure or spring loaded, or...? Also, once I unbolt it, what am I looking for and how should I check it.

Soory to take up a ton of your time tech, but this icode throwing is starting to annoy me!

Glennstarting to

 

Ok, I reset the timing with the crank notch marks at 12 o'clock and about 2 o'clock respectively. At this setting the intake cam timing mark is centered in the top cover notch, and the exhaust cam timing mark is at the forward center edge of the top covernotch. I started the car and it seemed to runa bit smoother (maybe wishful thinking). Additionallyafter four consecutive starts, the code scanner shows no codes,and no pending codes (neat feature on the scan tool) either. MaybeI got lucky!

Istill would liketo check out the reset valve though. Is there a way to electrically check it? Also, how do you mechanically check it?

Thanks again,

Glenn

 

Hope all is good now.
I would have to try to remember the specs from work.(Getting old forget alot) Electrical.
You could unscrew it and check and make sure it doesn't look like it has sludge in it.

Do you have live data on the scanner?

 

Hi tech,

Yes, all is good now. I ended up taking the belt off again, as I was still getting the code. I found out that I was looking at the wrong mark on the engine to line the crank pulley marks up. I finally found the correct mark by taking the tensioner off so I could see the pulley better. Once I did that I was able to see the tiny (and I mean tiny!) pointer mark on the engine.I set the crank pulley notches between that tiny pointer, lined up the cam marks with the notches on the top cover, and set the tensioner. Works good now.

Talk about lesson learned! I ended up taking that damn belt off 5 times until I got it right! I could probably do a riming belt in my sleep now!

Thanks for all your asistance. It would have been a lot harder without your input!

Glenn

 

Your welcome just glad to help.
Glad you got it all figured out.

I could to the belt with my eyes closed already.
working on replacing the VVT unit(pulley)with eyes closed. LOL