I replaced the valve body on my 2006 xc90 4.4 awd today with a rebuilt unit with a transgo shift kit. I reset the oil counter and tcm adaptations. When I first started it I cycled through P N R D to move the fluid around, when I moved it off the ramps it had a transmission performance low warning....I'm assuming it's because there wasn't fluid throughout the whole unit yet. I'm not to worried unless it becomes a constant thing as I drive it. Drove it around my neighborhood and it was a little rough at first (to be expected I'm assuming) and smoothed out quite a bit by the time I got back. I also installed a filter/magnet on the return line from the trans to radiator. I'll try and update as I put on some miles(Vida says up to 200-300 miles to fully relearn). This is the first time I've done a valve body before....is there anything else I should do or missed???
I still have to finalize the fluid level...I'll do that after I warm it up on my return from my office tomorrow. I left the undertray and front brush guard off until it's done.

Also does anyone know the nut size for the transmission mount on top ( I'm talking about the 2 front and back of the engine about lower radiator height about where the trans meets the engine)....one fell somewhere into the mount or area around the mount and didn't hit the ground...and 20 min of magnet fishing didn't get it. If my memory is right the front was a 15mm head size.

 

Sure - You could do the actual adaptation - here's a portion of it, you set the TCU into "adaptation mode", and drive the car - it's a page out of VIDA

 

Here's the rest of the procedure -

 

I ran through the adaptation mode, set the final level of the fluid and it's doing great....shifts smooth, no flaring, no issues.

I'm still trying to find the thread pitch for the *engine mounts, not transmission mounts as stated in the original post. If someone knows it would be most helpful...I've looked at 10+ motor mounts for sale and none have the thread pitch

 

Just in case anyone needs it....engine mount nuts are M10 1.5 pitch nuts

 

Hi, could you tell me what was involved in getting replacing the valve body? Was the removal of the transmission required? I'm contemplating installing a transgo kit, but if it requires removal of the transmission to install it, I will just get another transmission and install it on that one and replace the current transmission.

 

You don't have to remove the transmission. I needed to remove the nuts on the engine mounts to lift the engine about 2-3 inches to get the valve body cover off. If i were to do it again I'd just buy a new/rebuilt valve body. When I was originally searching there were only a few available from china, last time I searched there's a bunch on amazon and ebay (new) $500-600. Mine transmission seems to be doing pretty good...the only issues I've had since VB rebuilt/replaced is the occasional flare....once every 3-4 months 2-3 shift, only when hot and making multiple stops and go's.

 

Thanks for the quick reply, why would you go with the new/rebuilt valve body compared to the transgo improvement kit? Do you mean the updated valve body or the same version your transmission came with?

 

From what I've read the main reasons for the shift flares are wear in the shift solenoid/wear in the shift solenoid bore. With the transgo kit you'll end up grinding off the original solenoid caps and "rebuilding" them, If I remember I think you can pick up a new set of solenoid for around 150-200, I think I paid 120 for my transgo kit. I think it's gonna be a better use of your time and money to spend the extra $300-400 and get an entirely new unit (I don't think updated or same version will matter to much, I'd probably lean towards the same version the trans came with for simplicity) It'll have new solenoids, unworn bores, and already be assembled. (that part is a chore in and of itself) Plus I'd assume you'll flush the transmission with new fluid at the same time and essentially be good for another 100k. (all that assuming it's only the valve body)

 

I don't really have any shift flare, it's more of a shudder on low throttle shifts but I'm also at around 270k miles on the transmission

 

I just hit 170k. Just today I finished up valve cover gaskets, PCV, hoses, and power steering pump.
Either way my opinion is to buy the new valve body.

 

I'm torn, I'm not sure I want to spend the money on a new valve body if I could even find a quality one at a decent price. I think I may just rebuild mine and install a new torque converter. Possibly get a junk yard trans, go through it/install the trans go kit and a new converter at the same time.