2008 V8 Sport

Going to do my first brake job this weekend and I'm a little confused about the 18mm caliper bolt specs. I plan on removing the 18mm bolts and then taking off the caliper in one piece, replacing the pads and rotors. Now some say to remove the brake fluid cap when compressing the piston and some just crank it in with a c clamp without opening the cap. I prefer the second method. Is that fine?

On to the 18mm bolts. Some guides mention applying loc-tite before reinstalling the bolts and others make no mention of this. Suggestions? Lastly, the torque settings. Does anyone know the correct ft/lbs to torque to? Also do you need to tighten a certain degree more after torquing?

Thanks in advance.

 

You don't have to open the bleeder.

Volvo rotors come with new bolts that have loctite already installed on them.

I have no idea what the torque spec is off hand. Using an impact, I don't really worry about it.

 

Well, I just went to look at my rotors. No bolts included, and they are genuine Volvo parts ordered from FCP Euro. Crap. Can I reuse the old bolts? If so, would you use a certain color of loc-tite?

 

I have never used new bolts but that doesn't make it right. I think the thread lock comes in light, medium and high, I would use medium.

 

You can reuse them. For some Volvo's, the bolts are not included, so I reuse the old ones. I don't put any loctite on them if that is the case.

 

Thanks guys. I somehow don't think reusing the bolts will be a big deal. If it were, they'd be in a lot higher demand. I've searched for a few hours and only came up with one site on the entire interweb that sells them. You can find the 7mm caliper bolt/pins easily, but not the 18mm bolts.


Side note: the bolts were listed as M14 x 35 on the site selling them. Is that the same thing as 18mm? I love my Volvo, but it is nearly impossible to find parts diagrams with OEM part numbers. Maybe this is by design to force people to give up and take their cars to dealers, it's just a whole lot of frustrating.

 

i just did this job including new zimmerman rotors, those bolts were not included with new rotors but are fine to reuse unless they look damaged or the head is rounded off. i've done brakes on 7-8 other cars and never had new bolts included with the rotors (except the little bolt that holds the rotor to the hub). I would use loctite on those caliper bolts. I can tell you they are very tight, I had to use a breaker bar and my jack handle to make it longer to get them off. to push the piston back it helps to open the bleeder, you will squirt some fluid but just use an old towel to catch it. i don't know the torque spec but I used the breaker bar to tighten them.

 

I am asking about the 2 large caliper bolts. I'm thinking I'll just use Loctite and set my torque wrench to 100ft/lbs and call it good.

 

Now some say to remove the brake fluid cap when compressing the piston and some just crank it in with a c clamp without opening the cap. I prefer the second method. Is that fine?
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Dirt build inside the calipers. When you push in the piston you are forcing any dirt into your brake hoses. When it happens let say in the front the car may pull when you apply the brakes. Is you open the bleeding port the dirt will go out of the system. Brake fluid absorb water from the air thru the years and deteriorate whit the hi temperature so is better to bleed and flush your system every 3 years or 30,000 miles. Brake fluid absorb so much water that is you live a new can of B/F over night they recommend you not to used. About 22% of a LB of air is water.

 

You don't need to open the bleeder. The fluid moves back and forth anyway during braking.