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I would hope a shop that has a big VOLVO sign and a garage full of Volvos new and old would have a $100 VIDA diagnostic scanner. Perhaps I should anonymously inquire. Perhaps a battery shop would have a wider array of specific testing scanners.
Originally Posted by ES6T
The alternator cannot be fully checked by AutoZone. You need VIDA to test it at all temperatures.
A note on alternator:
- Bearings x2 usually last some 160K-200K. After that very noisy.
- The slip rings last 250K or so.
- The copper winding rarely goes out.
- The diode rarely goes out.
- The Voltage Regulator, being an electronic part can go out any time. It could go out at 50K, 100K, 150K, 200K or 250K.
- Now if your alternator has less than 150K, and if you want to save some money, and if you prove that the VR is the culprit, then:
---> Do a google search for Volvo PN 8637851 = Bosch F00M145279, about $45 online. And stick to Volvo OEM or Bosch only. Do NOT use aftermarket part!
I have searched and searched on repairs and FINALLY did the amazing Alternator replacement. I bought a ReManufactured from AdvancedAuto with promo for like $180 total. Anyways.....
I got my old one out new one installed which took all of 8 hours. 1 day later My POWER SYSTEM FAILURE SERVICE URGENT came on the dash. I found that my LIN wire connector on the Alternator was loose and would only slide up and down and would NEVER clip into place onto the Alternator. I bought a replacement Alternator plug off eBay for $8 and used cut off the OLD Connector. I used a Tap Splice connector and plugged the new harness / connector on to the Alternator but it was stil not charging. I thought F**K I may have to drop the Alternator again and have it tested. I also NOTICED my Washer T connector on the Pass side was also broken on the bottom which dumped Fluid down towards the alternator, so i replaced that as well.
Here is what I'm getting at....I NEVER saw this on ANY FORUM, so I wanted to SHARE in case someone runs into this as well. I have a iCarsoft Scanner. I thought WHY NOT checked and see what codes it may display. I showed the ECM having a ECM-U012087 " Lost communication with starter / Generator Control Module.
ALL I DID WAS ERASE THAT CODE AND BOOOOMMMM THE CAR WAS BACK TO CHARGING!!!!!! It has been 2 weeks since I have cleared that code with no issues charging. CHECK YOUR VOLVO ERROR CODES WITH A SCANNER, AND ERASE! I hope that helps someone!
Good day, My old alternator developed bearing noise. I replaced it and the computer did not recognise the new alternator. On the instrument panel it indicated that there is no charge. However, when I tested, the new alternator was fine. I removed the regulator from the new alternator and replaced it with the regulator from the old alternator. Problem solved!
Thank you for all the info. One question though... If I do buy an alternator for an 05+ with the computer controlled voltage regulator, and I install a self regulated voltage regulated for the same amperage, would everything work?
A shop buddy had a client back out of an alternator job, the alternator is a AL0854X (140 amp made for 2005+) and the one made for my car is the bosch AL0820X (2001 volvo s60 T5)
I have compared both voltage regulator's on FCPeuro's site and the holes for the screws and the brushes look identical, I do not know if the alternator itself has different internals.
Thank you for all the info. One question though... If I do buy an alternator for an 05+ with the computer controlled voltage regulator, and I install a self regulated voltage regulated for the same amperage, would everything work?
I can confirm that this does work as I just swapped the regulator on a 2004 V70 D5. After trawling through a lot of online stuff trying to find out the correct part numbers etc I made a YouTube video on the subject (Search for "Volvo battery charge light wont go out").
Cameron,
What is the secret to getting the top bolt out of the alternator? Wicked long 10mm racheting wrench from the top?
Has me stopped.
Thanks,
Bill
Basic tool
