Hi Guys, I have just started a replacement of my Oil Trap. (2005 XC90, 2.5t, 144,000mi) I have a couple print outs, Car history is that it lived in Florida, and a short while in Georgia. Then last summer it made the long trip to Wisconsin. While doing this job, I want to make sure there isn't any other handy to do's that should be done while I have the access to the engine (Intake coming off, ...)


Known problems
Timing Belt still needs to be done. (should I do it now)


Engine was feeling like when the turbo was going to engage, the motor vibrated roughly. (Uncle thought maybe it was a sign of poor performing fuel pump) fuel filter?


Right headlight washer doesn't like to work, (is there a way to test while its out of the car?)


Front Shocks/Struts are Shot


Top Motor mount was shot (middle was ripped out) Replaced
So are the bottoms ones equally shot?


Should I worry about doing a oil case O-ring job? if I determine the oil trap to sump passage is clogged?


I guess I need to replace the air filter


There is oil in the intercooler lines, should those be replaced? I haven't looked for cracks yet.


of course the rear main seal is shot (small leak, maybe)


Thanks,
Tobie

 

In middle of project, I have to do the full replacement. (If I think of it, I will upload photos later) Everything behind the oil trap, is clogged, Their was a little skinny tube, that once I got the intake manifold off, I could not tell what it was used for, I didn't see a wire, and it didn't have a tunnel, to make me think it was a tube. I took it to the dealer, dealer got me that metal tube system, (sorry name eludes me). I have started taking the Oil pan off I seem to think the oil pan will fall out with gravity. (so far it hasn't) that is where I have left that project. I have the bolts out of the oil pan, so that can be inspected, I have new o-rings to do that job right.

Has anyone figured out a way to test Headlight washers? (side job) (can not test until first job is done otherwise) I am sure there is another thing I wanted to ask, but I think I will wait and see if this forum is alive?

Oh this is funny, (at least to me) I took off a box that was on the side of the oil pan, and since I had no Idea what that was for, I was expecting it to be a pass though for oil. Once I got the clamp off, and out gushed the last of the coolant. Oh boy was that quick. For the record I still have no idea what its for, just know that now I might need more anti-freeze.

 

Those are all things I wouldn't put off.

The timing belt isn't that hard compared to most. They make it fairly easy. I strongly recommend replacing the tensioner and pulley while you are in there. Water pump too for peace of mind. Some folks only replace the water pump every other time. It's up to you. If it has never been replace I would do it. If it was replaced around the 100k mark I wouldn't worry about the water pump.

Front main seal isn't hard to get to with the timing belt off. Just have to take a couple more things off. You would do it through the access in the wheel well. Might be worth it if you see oil buildup down there.

My car has the same amount of miles within an oil change. My PCV system was clogged TERRIBLY. I didn't own the car before I tore into it (it's all apart right now for a transmission repair) but it seemed to run ok before we took the plunge. But boy that system was clogged.

Here are some pictures from my thread for the oil trap. Don't have the new one yet, but this is what mine looked like coming out. Keep in mind I have the T6.







Also not sure if this helps or not, but here is the banjo fitting into the intake so you know what to look for. Someone pointed that out to me just this weekend as well.



Hope this helps.

 

Yup, sure does look familiar.




I started last Tuesday morning, and by 3pm, I figured out I need more parts. So I took my extra parts, went to the dealer, and he sold me the "Volvo Crankcase Breather Pipe Assembly (S60 S80 V70 XC90) - Genuine Volvo 30650578"

I got that, Oring for the oil pan. The current state is the Oil pan propped up by a 2x4 until this tuesday. before I get started again.

My next worry after getting all this replaced, is the intercooler. I watched one person clean his intercooler, I haven't seen anyone suggest even touching it. The parts guy at dealer (I have strong respect for him, he was very helpful)

Yep, that hasn't been done yet. I am half thinking about doing it. Especially since I have the car up on blocks, kinda worried about doing too much, with out regard to did the bugs get worked out of the last job.

Where did you end up getting your T-belt from? Nevermind, I found your answer, thanks for the answer!

That Tube plugged into the banjo bolt, the small one, was completely blocked. So bad I didn't know what was running though there. I am still at a point where I could replace that tube from NAPA, or something, and return the above mentioned breather line. I seem to think Seaform, or something could clean that out really good, (except for that one tube, that it snapped while I was pulling out the intake.)

 

So the pooling oil under the butterfly, kind of infers that the oil level is potentially substantial. The oil splatter on the butterfly doesn't give me super feelings of perfection.

Does anyone have a rock solid idea to clean this out? I am leaning towards filling up a shallow tub,with simple green, or purple power, and rinsing out the inter cooler, and adjacent tubes.

Should I also worry about the turbo, I seen a thread that referenced a Mitsubishi gasket kit.

(am I just being Hypochondriac)

 

Status update, spent yesterday working working on the oil pan. The oil pan fell off once I moved the brace. Last week it refused to budge.

I spent like 4 hours looking for a metric torque wrench. Most of the directions were giving torques in NM's. Then I knew from taking it apart, most of the bolts were very lightly torqued.

So I used my pressure washer on that square tube in the pan, It was clogged as much as the worse clogged passages that I have seen on the net. I was able to convert the top rubber trap elbow, and the old lower trap to engine wall connector, marry the two together, and fell the elbow with seafoam, and let that sit and soak. (I put paper towels in the bottom part to keep the seafoam in place until I was ready to work on it.)

So the lesson learned from the oil pan, something I hadn't gleaned from previous posts, is that the baffles don't seem to be removable. Which made getting to the clean out hole nearly impossible. I was able to use a brass wire from a romex about 12 gauge wire (I will have to double check if someone is wonders) 12 inches. Bent it to flex into the hole, and attempt to clean out that passage. Maybe since it was dry crank case it dehydrated, and normally that doesn't happen. I am incline to think that passage needs be thoroughly cleaned out.

I did replace the O-rings in the oil pan. The kit came with some paper type rings/gaskets. I am not running into where they look like they go on my car.

The oil cooler, I can not figure out if the remainding rings are suppose to go in there? or just use the old ones. (Chiltons says otherwise) Obviously its a easy replacement if I find out there is another kit with those rings.

So putting the pan onto the bottom of the only issue that was disturbing, is of the 4 bolts that chiltons said that needed to be torqued to 20 ft/lbs, then retorqued to 37 ft/lbs, 2 of them seemed to be striped. Since this is my first trip into the pan, and I do have a history of failing to torque things right, (thus the failed 4 our trip to look for torque wrench) (XS400 with a stripped drive axle, failed to torque to 75 ft/pds, oops)
Thanks
Tobe

 

This might help you for converting torque values.

Inch-Pounds to Newton Meters Conversion Calculator

 

I used that one initially on my cell phone, Google finally did just fine. But then there is the right tool to do the torque'ing. The one I picked up, was good from 120 ft/lbs and up. I needed a 19 ft/lbs.
Thanks! I do appreciate the help!

 

Haha! I did think it was a little weird that a torque wrench couldn't torque in metric!

 

I can only work on the car on Tuesdays. I have college on mondays, and I work 2nd shift for the rest of the remaining days.

While cleaning the oilpan I noticed the hole that goes to the square hole was really clogged as well. I tried to pressure wash the clogged stuff out.. it didn't work. I used a Romex wire gound to get into there. I could not figure out how to get the baffles out. Then ...
I go to get everything put together I had could not put the oil coolant on. Well I bought the O-ring kit, and those orings were not part of the kit.

question one, should I replace those oil coolant o-rings 30637339? or do you think the 11 year old orings will be fine?
2. should I do the timing now, while I have the intake manifold off?


I think i am tired, I am thinking some of this is Deja vu. later

 

I see I have some great answers to my questions.
Today's missions was to remove the oil pan, and seal it, and replace it.
Done.
tomorrow am, provided weather is good, I will put some oil in the to see if it will hold oil. Since the intake Manifold is off, I have been vacuuming out fluid that has been accumulating.

Next week I will attack the silver bar, and remove and replace. back to YouTube so I can get some help.

 

Okay, Two weeks later, I took a look at the metal tube, and now to remove it.

apparently I need to remove the Turbo intake, Done.

So how do I get the silver tube, and intake tube to come out? I was going to pull a 12mm bolt out, but the torque was really strong, so I reconsidered. Any suggestions?
Thanks
Tobie

 

I found a you tube, that showed a good removal of the Turbo intake tube. not my intention of upgrading now, but nice to know that is an option.

 

A month into the process, I had a school delay. Some reason I could not share my time between my 2nd shift job, and school, and sleep, did I mention I had a wife, and child hospitalized during this month? When I was last looking at this car. I was having a hard time figuring out how to remove the turbo intake tube. That YouTube vid helped. Then the next issue was how to get the breather pipe out? The turbo tube had an extra tube attached, that I didn't see earlier, then I was able to rotate the turbo connection downward,, and out. The breather pipe had to be cut off first. I found a gardening shears, and clipped it near the turbo tube. Then I found the breather banjo bolt.

I was able to put the banjo bolt on, with new crush rings. no problem. Then I went to put on the new oil trap, I knew it was smaller than the one I pulled off, every else seemed to line up right. Then I went to put on the new upper vent tube connector, and it was too small. I trusted Amazon way too much. My next email is to Amazon UROparts, and see what they have to say. Hopefully it wont be out of the return window. by the way, my local Volvo dealer had just closed an hour before I discovered that I had this jacked up.

Since I didn't get that fixed today, I moved onto other projects.
1. Flooding under the mats. I plugged in the battery today, knowing that the fuel pump fuze is pulled, so I know nothing is going to activate. So to check the floor boards, I found I have to remove the seats, and then I can evaluate the wetness. Driver side was dry, but the conditon of the floorboards (carpet to foam insulation) is poor. I found alot of slate type aquarium size under the driver floor board, then when I brought that thing into the house to rub it down with some OxiClean, I kept hearing the slate moving around in the floor pad. Since the seats are out, the previous owner had a dog or cat that traveled all the time. So I vacumed all that stuff out, and then the poored coffee on the middle console, and floor boards. My wet dry vac had a work out today.

2. since It was battery was on, I checked out the headlight washer. The tubing sprayed water, the old unit refused to work. so I painted the cover for the new one.

3. when I pulled out the passenger floor board, it was damp. Since I just drived it out during winter, It didnt need that deep cleaning. I took off the A post cover, and checked the L shape grommet, it was breaking down. I went to Menards and got a 10' 1/2 in ID tubing, clear vinyl. (thin wall, it was thinner than another one taht I had found there. Now I have put some baking power/soda aound the passenger compartment tubing since the floor board is out, and I am going to put a sprinker next to the car for an hour, and see if it floods into the car now.

So on the to do list in the future is:
1. middle seats have alot of animal hair under those seats.
2. new fog light driver side.
3. new Alarm (battery is dead)
4. pull out the intercooler, since it is filled with oil, I think I will rinse it with either fuel, a internet site suggested acetone/acetate? I haven't made up my mind yet. (I am not counting on any suggestions) however it would be nice.

Thanks Crane for your input!
Tobie

PS. parts were delivered on March 3, and the window was closed about the 3rd of april, and today is the 23 or April. I am out only $32usd. Not too bad i guess.

 

Already then, Today was a good maintenance day. My goal was to get the radiator/intercooler out, and rinse out the oil from the intercooler. Done. The Volvo parts guy, warned of a hydro lock, seems that if the pistons, can get too much pressure, and blow a rod. Interesting. I told him that my valves has seafoam in/on them to prevent corrosion or anything else. (its been off the road on jacks since March)

Things learned today, middle tray/brush guard can stick, It is easier to work on the headlight washers with the headlights taken out, also gives plenty of room to get to the radiator stuff, as needed. the gray panels on either side of the brush guard, is relatively painless to remove. I did snap one or two of the plastic tabs.)

Progress, the radiator/intercooler has been replace. I do feel accomplish, even though i only got one thing accomplished.

previous owner did have some work done on the radiator in the past, you can tell by the missing bolt, and broken tie downs. maybe they also cleaned out the intercooler in the past, and I should replace the seals on the turbo? I know the main seal is going, and the still thinking I will pay someone to do the timing belt, (and sneak that into the consideration for the job. (camshaft seals examined.)

I replaced the one headlight washer, and still only one activates. I am supposing that the motor isn't strong enough to run both of them? anyone? Thansk

 

Todays journal...
Lets see something to add to the new needs, The drivers speaker cover fell off, apparently the PO glued/epoxied the cover onto the space. Cheapest replacement online was ebay for 40 bucks. High pressure washer pump (headlight)

Need to find a junk yard, to see if I can find a drivers carpet replacement/speaker cover.

Amazon shipments showed up, replaced front fog light.

Alright the troubles of today, or successes --
Placed intake on, took two times to get things right. The back of the breather pipe got stuck under the coolant return. Took me forever to figure out to undo the banjo bolt, and redo the connector to the turbo intake pipe.

So when I stopped tonight, The breather pipe should be done, Now it should be rest of the air ducting, fluids (coolant/oil) I can't believe it take me an hour or two to finish it up.

replaced the driver seat side panel.

working on replacing the shifter

I have new motor mounts to put in.

I have a trailer hitch, from amazon ready to be installed.
Thanks guys

Questions for the community... Has anyone replaced the carpet, under the drivers mat?

 

Progress, I have put oil into the oilpan, and coolant into that system. Oops, I need to put the oil dipstick back into its place. Almost ready to spin the motor with out sparkplugs, (to make sure I dont get a hydrolock) Hope I used the right term. Seems I all that is left is the Air box, and the various turbo tubings, and ensure I plug all the right stuff into the right holes.

Then onto the engine mounts, tail hitch, shifter ****. Then next month, suspension, timing belt. a new quote for the Main seal.

I haven't made up my mind, should I put new plugs in, (144,000 mi)

 

Its a week later, I am almost don e with my classes.
So this week, I had discovered a leaky turbo, there is a new thread for that. Mechanic said not to worry about it.

I striped out a bolt for the thermostat housing, so I am in a waiting mode until I get that. (Friday) hopefully i will have it figured out, now that I messed with the oil drain tube, the red/orange gasket, crumbled. so know I have to do something.

The rear window sprayer, is not clogged from the bottle to the first connector. so now to get into the middle light lens, and check out the jet, and confirm that the hose is not clogged or bent. (no leak any were else)

Tail hitch is almost on all the way. The box said, this side up. I had it saving space in my garage until I could spend some time on it. so now I suspect that the weight bent in part of the connecting flange. So I will be pounding it out, so I can get bolts onto all the holes (6 total)

I am thinking that I need to get a new pump for the headlight washers. I am assuming that the one that does work has a lighter spring? and the new one not as light. or, there is a problem with the hose. I would like to get this fixed as long as I have access to those spots.

So needless to say, the intake is off again, and once again, I am pondering what I need to do next. (replace the thermostat housing, put everything back together, pull the turbo out, (if I can) Got a better estimate for timing belt job, $700 at the dealership.) Main seal $1750. USD

I ordered a tow package, came with everything. I like what I seen in the amazon order page. there was non-electronic wire plugin, I open up that package, and seen the connector was an energized unit. Doh.

 

Okay, Accomplishments, 1. put the tow hitch on. 2. thermostat housing is back on. After pulling the turbo off, I don't know which fluids have washed my arm. antifreeze,(coolant) or oil.

So I am running my Turbo for someone else to do. I need to do a Timing belt job, before I put those fluids back

I think I am going to postpone the suspension. I need to finish the motor mount replacement, which needs to include replacing the swaybar link. as well as the stick upgrade.

I am still planning on pulling out the rear carpet, unless I can figure out the rear seat sun roof discharge to the rear seats.

 

Accomplishments:
Trailer hitch, installed with wiring harness! late last weekend (great rainy time project)
Motor Mounts replaced (yesterday)

Turbo repaired (stuck bearing, crazy leaking) Figured out the leak, I poured some oil into the pistons (via spark plug holes, and the oil followed gravity and leaked out the space between the turbo, and exhaust manifold, and appropriate

Still working on:
stain removal of back seat of car, old pet hair...
removal of middle row seats to make it easier to vacuum, and hoping to determine if access to the area below the carpet is accessible from here. I want to see if I can find the rear sunroof drainage connector, to determine if its leaking. (its just that there is a specific smell. I can not tell if its animal hair, or that the child was dumping tons of soda of some sort onto the floor between chairs?

Timing belt kit from IPD showed up today, discovered my car uses T60 Torx bit for the serpentine belt tension pulley.

So today, I tried to close up the rest of the jobs, so the plenum has placed, all the connections that I can remember are plugged in. (I found a extra 3 pin connctions, same as the cam wire, seems the wires are colored the same.

So tomorrow it should just the finish the timing belt job. So any luck tomorrow, it will be running, and be clean.