I did get it to start yesterday. Seams it took just 3 months for me to get this project complete. I had been telling people I started in February. When I started this thread, March 9. I want to thank Crane for his contribution, I wish more people would have contributed.

Total to date (June 9th)
$1959.

Amazon ($620)
Control Arms Moog RK640447 (46) $77 x2 $154
2 Front ball joints $34 (URO)
Tie Rods (May send back) ($46)
Fog light replacement $40
Drivers seat lower trim $22
2 hydraulic engine mount, , $72
Subframe torque mount $40
window washer jet $12
Headlamp washer cover $25
Gear Shift Rocker Arm kit $16, (I didn't need)
Outlet Crankcase Hose vent $7.
Shift **** $79
Oil Trap $25 (Wrong model, couldn't return because of more than a month went by until I found that out)
Crankcase breather hose $18
Dipstick $10
Intake manifold gasket 11
Oil separator to engine $8 (Wrong model) stayed with original.

IPD $376
Timing Belt kit with H20 pump $242
Serpentine belt $30
Oil change kit with wrench $25
Engine Mount $41.
Engine Oil Cooler seal $15.

TASCA ($332.)
Door Tweeter, Drivers side. (inner Cover) $31.
Siren (alarm system) 225
headlight washer pump $56

Dealership Everything added up since Feb ($631)
Breather tube $250
Oil trap $45
Various Bolts, nuts connectors $25

Still projected: Struts, caps, Drivers side carpet, used console for middle,

 

So, I went from the PVC job, right into the Timing belt job. Since the car has 163,000 miles on it, Why put it in service yet. I think I remarked on pricing options in a previous post. I bought the IPD kit with water pump, and serpentine belt. Figured out I needed a T60 torx for my serpentine belt. I did it, got it running. Problem popped up immediately was the car sat since February, and apparently some brake parts like to freeze. so in my zeal to break the brakes. I had to spend another 620 at a local shop. (still better than thier first quote, and with a $50 dollar coupon, Great pricing. They went above and beyond. if it was at the dealership, I am sure I would have gotten a call, stating that we have to charge more for going into the case to make sure the cams are right. In realatiy, I had a timing belt, I marked the marks on the plastic, and old belt, I counted out the lugs, matched it up on the new belt, and put it in there. only thing I could not see well enough was the bottom crankshaft. I thought the timing mark was still on mark when I completed, but I have no true idea that it was.

Next issue popped up right after I drove it to work. I drove it 10 miles home, and 30 miles to work. the throttle and turbo seem like it was working appropriately, then as I got to work, it was getting rough. which triggered the reduce engine performance, then when I got off of work, I not was able to start my car. I had it towed back to the shop. They stated that it needed a new throttle body. they quoted 1200, I found it for 300, from Rockauto.

So after the new ETM throttle, it did not get rid of the roughness. the final symptoms of the rough throttle is that you could be driving at 40 mph, and then accelerate over that spot, you feel a stutter in the throttle system. Since I had a check engine light, I took it into the dealership, and they looked at it complimentary check engine light program.(free)
They answered all my questions, 1, can they fix the window up/down when I send it up. 2, why is the muffler noise so noisy, (the new trailer hitch is rubbing on the muffler) 3. for $1400, USD, they will replace the fuel pump. otherwise it is functional until that dies. (okay he didn't say that)

When I realized that the new throttle body did the fix, I went to NAPA Auto, they suggested that bad gas could be an issue. Put some of this Purple stuff in a can, designed for fuel injectors/fuel. remove all the old fuel, replace the filter, (fyi 6.5inches). So I am still crossing my fingers that this intervention will fix it self. Only question I could be sure of is, should I have gone with 100% pure gas, (like for old cars) or go with the high octane of the ethanol. I went with option B. The next question is? Is many short trips better, or one long one, or just drive from slow to fast with turbo use, frequently? I have no problem with use of turbo.

well if anyone is reading this, todays project is to replace the suspension parts, control arm...

 

So your mechanic told you not to worry about the turbo...
Is it pressurizing your crank case causing oil leaks and PVC problems?
That is what is wrong with the turbo on my SAAB.
The turbo is leaking into my oil return and .... Oil everywhere! Lots of crank case pressure. (Like 1L oil loss / tank of fuel!) Turbo kit next week.
I had planned to sell this car next week but I can't let it go like this.

 

My primary concern when I started this project was the PVC system. If the Crankcase can not breath right, then when the turbo kicks in, it has to draw air from somewhere. So if it can not get air from the primary means, it will either blow air into the crankcase and over pressurize all the seals. Easiest seals for it to get what it wants is your Cam seals, and the Main output seal. If it does not get fixed by that time, it is going to total it self. (I don't know what really is, but it is bad, and expensive).

Note: the worse case I seen on the internet, included that the oil pan had blocked passages (for my car) I had that as well, and if nothing else, it learned if I am going to do something, I did everything at least twice.

The person that helped me the most was a Parts guy. He had the similar car as this one.

Step one for me, (since I am a EMT in previous time in my life) Breathing. I took off the PCV (Crankcase Ventilation) Looks Like I used the wrong acronym in my header title.

Step two, when taking apart the turbo charged air pipe, and the intercooler, is when I found the next issues. I didn't see my pic that I took of the connector pipe from the harden tube, to rubber tube, to the intercooler. That last tube, I was concerned about prior to my PCV journey because it alot of built up oil on it. It did not come off readily. I was assuming maybe power steering pump issues, or something else. (I had no Idea). My first clue was weird yellow mix under my thottle body.


For me it became obvious that the turbo was blowing oil/coolant mixture down the charged air tube. Which eventually covered my butterfly valve.


Then I started thinking, if its really crappy on the down slope to the intercooler, and the tube from the intercooler to the ETM (throttle Module) butterfly valve is yellow sprayed on, etc... How much crap is in my intercooler? Common sense tells me, if there juice getting though the intercooler, it has to be at least half filled with that crap. (no pics)

Up until this point I had not thought of the Turbo as an culprit. When I got the car put back together, and getting ready to get it running, (it was a project that I could only afford one day of the week, and that was only half a day usually. So since my car had been sitting for soo long, I decided to put seafoam into the intake portion of the engine, and then as I got closer to lets start her up, I put oil into the sparkplug holes. (It was winter when I started this project, now it was spring, working outside, next to small garage) So after filling up the various liquid items, a week later, I noticed I had two leaks, one was the thermostat housing, and the other was the turbo.


Since the car had not been running, it didn't dawn to me that the leak was from the sparkplug hole, I was convinced it moving oil, somehow, and it leaked, just because I topped off the oil capacities. Good thing I did, the Turbo shop asked if I tried to move the turbo things. I had no intention of learning another skill, so I just boxed it up, and brought it in. He said the bearings were replaced, he could not get it to spin. and he replaced the seals. Thanks DCI of Burnsville, MN ($520). A local shopped suggested I look up Diesel shops that work on turbos. They would have least issues as far as returning jobs.

Step three, Timing belt Since that car needed it, 163,000 Miles, done
Step four, Fuel. Since that fuel sat all that time, I started having some funky issues. I drove it to work, and it barely made it into the parkinglot. (30 Miles with hard use of turbo, ...) Shop said it was the ETM Throttle Module, ($300). I drained the fuel out of the car via the fuel rail, using a bicycle stem remover, and a 4" fuel line I picked up from a local auto store, Used a vise grips to seal the fuel line, until the car got started, and drained the contents into a new 5 gal fuel can. (slick!) as long as you have less than 5 gallons.

My dealership has a policy of checking out "check engine" lights for free (1 hour) I took the car in, they ran a check, they determine I had a bad fuel pump ($1400), coil one is not working and maybe need a new fuel tank ($2400). Now the error code is just Ignition coil one. I can get a used one for $23 locally.

I hope I covered everything. I plan on keeping my car for along time, so the time I put into it, should be worth it. With out knowing how intense the job is for a SAAB, My Turbo had to be done, my Oil trap needed to be done. and it snow balled from there. Good luck