Here's an experience we had today.

2011 XC90 key turns to "ON" (position II) but won't go past to position III (Start). The dash lights up "on" but can't start the car, can't get shifter out of "Park". Called dealership, they said the car had to be repaired (under warranty).

Waited 3 hours for towtruck. Towtruck driver squirted lube in there, fiddled with it. Then asked "do you have a spare key?" Answer yes, 2 miles from here.

Tow driver said "I'm going to force your key. Volvo has a design error in the key, we see it all the time. It gets stuck. Volvo dealer will replace the lock cylinder and charge (either you or the warranty dept.) $700."

"But I'm going to force it, and break the pin. If the key doesn't break first then your problem is solved, forever. I have done this many times on Volvos."

Tow truck driver squirted lube in the keyhole, shoved key in and out a bunch of times then brute-force-turned the key towards "start". It popped, and then behaved perfectly normal after that. Drove the car home, it seems fine. Quite mad at my dealer for not telling me and saving the 3 hours wait.

 

Sorry but how is that a good thing at all?!? Don't get mad at the dealer for not telling you something that is incorrect. The reason it was stuck was because the column lock failed. I have never heard of a design error in the key at all, of there was a design error in the key you wouldn't be able to ever start your car. Didn't you think something was wrong with that when he said "if your key doesn't break first"? It is not designed to break.

 

Yeah, don't post this BS "solution" as if it is a real fix. The column lock needs to be replaced. Very common.

 

He said "key" but probably was referring to a design error "in the lock cylinder". Apparently it happens a lot, I'm not so impressed with how it was "designed" when Volvo are unable to rectify it after years of problems. Or Volvo could recommend a lube once yearly to prevent this (just a guess). Probably should wait for advice from somebody who knows this problem better (than my single experience).

Well this is the first time I have used a TowTruck driver for Volvo expertise. Maybe if we go on vacation for a week we can take the car in for warranty and tell them to fix it. If its been happening for years, of course the dealer knows about it too. But could be quite the ordeal as it's working perfectly now. I do not enjoy the hassle of being without the vehicle for several days.

Is there anyone who knows exactly what happened in the lock mechanism when the Tow driver 'forced it' -- and can post pics so I can see for myself if indeed it's 'fixed forever' (per the Tow drivers prediction). I don't like the idea of it happening again, especially after the warranty is up. I'm a little uneasy about it.

But this method could be a $700 gift for Volvos that are "out of warranty". More people doing it and reporting results will be appreciated, at least by me. Sadly this is probably a good candidate for a repair shops to overcharge a customer $700 in 3 minutes.

 

I've replaced dozens of them. Never have I forced the key and then charged to replace the lock. If you're worried about that, ask for the old part back.

 

What you said is reasonable with a trusted mechanic, but who can "know" that the part presented is the actual part removed from their car? It's not a direct line of proof. Anyway Volvo owners can now decide to:

Endure the tow hassle ($$$?), a few days without the car, and $700 repair bill
--- or ---
risk their key, but possibly drive home, possibly be done with it

 

It all comes down to trust and you're choosing to trust the tow driver (who clearly has wrong info on this- there is no design flaw with the key and it doesn't cost $700 for the column lock) because it's more convenient. That is not the fix though.

 

You need new tumbler, about $250 or so.

I have not done this on the XC90 yet, but for my 1998 S70, the procedure is below.

Note that since this thread was started, there are some nice tricks that came in:
- No need to remove the steering wheel.
- No need to drill the theft-resistant bolts' heads.
- A small flame (use aluminum foil to protect surrounding areas) aimed at the bolt threads will soften the Loctite and make removal easier.
- Cut a small slot in the bolt head (dremel tool) and use screwdriver t spin it out.


http://matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/...hp?f=1&t=34472