Torque Specs
Did a search on the forum and couldn't find the torques that I need. Does anyone have VADI(S) for a 2007 XC90 3.2L? If so could you post the torque specs for the front lower control arm bolts, ball joints and CV bolt? TIA
I pulled this while the vehicle profile was my 06 XC90 2.5T AWD.....
Ball joint
50 Nm
Ball joint in link arm XC90 (M14)
100 Nm
Tightening torque
General tightening torque
Note! Screws coated with a locking fluid or self locking nuts must be replaced with new when reinstalled.
See the table below to find the tightening torques for components not included in the summary.
Nuts and screws which are not self locking can be reused provided that they are in good condition.
Applies to screwed joint with strength class 8.8.
Thread
Tightening torque (Nm)
M5
5
M6
10
M7
17
M8
24
M10
50
M12
80
M14
130
Summary of tightening torques for specific components
Note! Screws coated with locking fluid or sealant must be replaced with new when reinstalled.
Always use new screws and nuts when angle tightening. Any exceptions to this rule will be indicated in the method.
Angle-tightening in tight spaces. See Screwed joint, torque/angle tightening .
Bushing housing upper link arm in sub-frame rear XC90 (M12)
1st step, 65 Nm
2nd step, 90°
Rear sub-frame in body (M12)
100 Nm
Rear cross member
25 Nm
Spring strut/Wheel spindle
1st step, 105 Nm
2nd step, 60º
Ball joint in wheel spindle, aluminum from and incl. w919 not XC90 (M10)
40 Nm
Ball joint in link arm XC90 (M14)
100 Nm
Ball joint in control arm aluminum (not XC90)(M12)
1st step, 50 Nm.
2nd step, 40º
Ball joint in control arm steel (not XC90)(M14)
100 Nm
Drive shaft ball joint
1st step, 35 Nm.
2nd step, 90º
Anti-roll bar to link
50 Nm
Cover rear sub-frame AWD (not XC90) (M12)
100 Nm.
Cover rear sub-frame AWD (not XC90)
80 Nm
Link arm front in sub-frame, front mounting (M12)
1st step, 65 Nm.
2nd step, 105º
Link arm front in sub-frame, rear mounting (M14)
1st step, 105 Nm.
2nd step, 180º
Control arm, rear, lower to subframe (applies to XC90)
1st step, 65 Nm
2nd step, 180º
Lock nut outer steering joint against inner steering joint (M14)
70 Nm
Return hose in steering gear (M18)
25 Nm
Screw for steering wheel - steering column (M14)
1st step, 30 Nm
2nd step, 30º
Steering wheel lock in steering column (M8)
18 Nm
Dirt deflector in longitudinal stay not XC90 and R-line (M8)
10 Nm
Lower steering column/steering shaft wing screw - lock nut (M8) not XC90
30 Nm
Lower steering shaft joint to steering gear locking screw (M8) not XC90
25 Nm
Joint for steering column/steering shaft locking screw (M8) XC90
32 Nm
Joint for steering gear locking nut (M8) XC90
25 Nm
Outer screws for the track rod XC90
90 Nm
Eccentric screw and nut for the track rod XC90
90 Nm
Tie rod, inner nut
80 Nm
Tie rod's ball joint to steering gear
100 Nm
Steering arm/tie rod end in wheel spindle steel
70 Nm
Steering joint in wheel spindle aluminum
1st step, 50 Nm
2nd step, 40º
Steering joint in wheel spindle XC90
1st step, 50 Nm
2nd step, 35º
Steering gear
50 Nm
Support plate
50 Nm
Pressure line to steering gear (M16)
25 Nm
Pressure hose in pump (M16)
32 Nm
Delivery line to power steering pump XC90
30Nm
Cross member
25 Nm
Heat shield plate in steering gear (M5)
6 Nm
No problem..be sure to come back and let us know how it goes. I'm planning on doing a front-end rehaul on our XC90 this spring myself - control arms, ball joints, sway-bar links, and tie-rods.
Sorry for not getting back sooner but I just finished the job this weekend. Several missteps along the way. Was doing rotors, pads, ball joints and control arms. First attempt I found I had the wrong pads had to send back and re-order. Second attempt I started on the driver side (God was looking out for me) dis-assembled everything and when I pulled the new driver side control arm out (I think 4045) I decided to check the new passenger side (4046) and saw that it was the same part. It did not come in a Volvo bag and had a label attached to it that said it was a 4046 but it was a 4045. So I had to ship that back get credit and have a real 4046 sent to me. This along with travel for work held me up. But all is done and everything worked out. The most difficult part of the job was getting the new ball joints back into the new control arms. This took some time, my straps have short levers so getting enough leverage to pull the control arms down was difficult. I don't get on the computer that often but if you have any questions let me know and I will check from time to time. Thanks again.
Sorry for not getting back sooner but I just finished the job this weekend. Several missteps along the way. Was doing rotors, pads, ball joints and control arms. First attempt I found I had the wrong pads had to send back and re-order. Second attempt I started on the driver side (God was looking out for me) dis-assembled everything and when I pulled the new driver side control arm out (I think 4045) I decided to check the new passenger side (4046) and saw that it was the same part. It did not come in a Volvo bag and had a label attached to it that said it was a 4046 but it was a 4045. So I had to ship that back get credit and have a real 4046 sent to me. This along with travel for work held me up. But all is done and everything worked out. The most difficult part of the job was getting the new ball joints back into the new control arms. This took some time, my straps have short levers so getting enough leverage to pull the control arms down was difficult. I don't get on the computer that often but if you have any questions let me know and I will check from time to time. Thanks again.
Jabber, sorry I don't get on the computer that often. Probably too late for you but maybe someone else might find the information useful. I use a piece of threaded pipe 3" long with an outside diameter of roughly 2.3125" with a threaded cap on the one end. I clean up the rust/corrosion from the cavity and then I use a light coat of machine oil on the ball joint (portion that gets beat in). I use the old ball joint screws to snug it into place evenly, then I slide the pipe over the ball joint and I use a 10 lb maul to beat the ball joint into place. I have done this on a V70, XC90 and today on my S60. Some take more beating than others and when I stop to check I snug the screws up before I start beating again. Always leave the plastic sleeve over the ball joint while doing this to protect the boot. The pipe will fit inbetween the screws heads and clear the ball joint diameter, it is a perfect fit, but if you get sloppy while beating the end of the pipe and let is come off the ball joint between strikes it is possible to catch the boot if you don't leave the sleeve on. The other pointer I will give is that I became tired of using the strap method for compressing the control arm and today when I did the S60 I just popped the hub off the strut, slipped the ball joint into the control arm and then pushed the hub back down to align the bolt holes. Much easier for me to do it this way then with the straps.
Last edited by McBain; Dec 20, 2015 at 06:41 PM.
guys, what is the bolt thread and pitch for this ball joint? im looking at this ball joint for a universal alternate application.
looking online it shown to be volvo part and that's why im here.
this one:
the center ball joint thread itself, is is M14x1.5 pitch or???
thanks,
-J
looking online it shown to be volvo part and that's why im here.
this one:
the center ball joint thread itself, is is M14x1.5 pitch or???
thanks,
-J
Last edited by jasontamu; Mar 8, 2016 at 11:27 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
mirubbish
Volvo V70
0
May 10, 2007 12:38 PM



