Some time ago I promised the forum membership I would write an oil change procedure for the XC90 4.4L V-8. Since then, for one reason or another we kept going back to the dealer and having them do the oil change. Today, I finally did the oil change on my own. So without any more fanfare, here’s what it took:

Tools:

10mm socket
17mm socket
strap wrench
10 gal oil drain pan
Ramps
Funnel
Lots of shop towels in my case

Supplies:

K&N Oil Filter with O-ring
Air filter
Cabin Filter
7 quarts Castrol GTX 10w30


Procedure:

1. With the XC90 front tires on service ramps, remove the black plastic skid plate using the 10mm socket wrench. There are six 10mm capscrews with washers that hold the skid plate on. One of mine screws was missing incidentally, it probably vibrated loose after the most recent dealer service visit. The screws are located two in the front, two in the rear, and one on either side midway between front and back along the edge of the pan.


2. Remove the drain plug at the rear center of the oil pan with the 17mm socket, with a drain pan in place in advance. Allow the oil to drain into a 10 gal. oil drain pan.


3. The oil filter canister is located at the bottom of the engine, at front and center, pointing straight down. It is black in color and nearly completely recessed. There’s also a wire loom running along the rearward edge of the canister.

Note this oil canister is not accessible from any position except from underneath the vehicle with the skid plate removed. I didn’t have an oil filter wrench to fit the canister, and so I used a strap wrench instead. I was able to get the strap wrench around the canister (barely) to loosen it.

I waited until the oil completely drained from the crankcase plug hole before I removed the oil canister. This way there was minimal oil loss through the oil filter channel. The filter cartridge came out with the canister. I held a separate small oil recovery pan under the canister to catch the oil that came out when the canister was removed. After draining the oil from the canister I removed the oil filter, inspected it, then threw it away. I cleaned the inside of the canister completely, as well as the threads.


4. After both access points stopped dripping I wiped the areas down with clean shop rags,

5. I installed a new oil filter (K&N) by sliding it onto the sleeve extending down from the oil filter recess, then reinstalled the canister housing including the new O-ring that came with the filter element.

6. Replaced the oil drain bolt and tightened it with the 17mm socket.

7. Added 7 quarts of Castrol 10w30. The owner’s manual calls for 7.1 quarts.

8. I started it up and ran it for 1-2 minutes looking for any leaks. I then shut it back off and cleaned up my work area. After about 15 minutes I pulled the dipstick and was surprised to see the oil level was midway between the high and low marks. I didn’t add any more oil today, but will keep an eye on it for a day or two and add a bit if needed. (What is up with this 7.1 business….???)

9. Re-installed the skid plate with the 10mm socket wrench.


I also ALMOST replaced the air filter today, except that Advance Auto gave me the wrong part. I took it back and they don’t have the right one in stock. The second filter will be here in 3-4 days so I’ll install it then.

I also replaced the cabin filter, and, after a second trip to Advance Auto (thankfully they’re close by) to double check what they sold me I installed the original filter they gave me, even though the plastic housing on the top of the filter element is on the wrong side.

On the new Purolator cabin filter the plastic vertical “fin” at the top of the element is closer to the engine, the Volvo filter I took out had the plastic “fin” closer to the cabin. Also, the air flow indicator is in the wrong direction in my opinion (towards the engine) on the Purolator cabin filter but the store told me told that should not matter. We’ll see. (It’s like the Volvo filter and the Purolator filter are mirror images of each other, if that helps explain it better).

If anyone needs detailed info on the cabin or air filter replacement let me know.

 

Good write up thanks!!

 

yes bluemagicbus could you please detail the cabin / air filter install? also is it the same install for the 6 cylinder??

 

hi sean177.. I don't know if the install is the same for the V-8 and the six cylinder... I'm just an owner of a V-8, not a Volvo technician. I'll post the air and cabin filter writeups separately.

 

hi sean177.. I don't know if the install is the same for the V-8 and the six cylinder... I'm just an owner of a V-8, not a Volvo technician. I'll post the air and cabin filter writeups separately.

 

Yes it is exactly the same.

 

Post by Arporro, moved from: https://volvoforums.com/m_73061/mpage_2/tm.htm

Thanks,

This was an excellent guide. I used it to change the oil on our new 08 XC90 3.2 L AWD. Knowing the bolt sizes in advance was great plus the tip of removing the oil filter first. This is probably the easiest oil filter replacement I've ever done. The only issue I had is that my oil drain pan was way too small got to get the supersized one for this car.

The only correction I have in your instructions is that the oil filter housing cap is torqued down to 25 Newton Meters rather than 25 foot pounds. I was able to use a torque wrench by using two long 3/8 in. extensions. The cap turns quite a bit before the torque comes up to spec, so you may take the risk that the cap may be loose if you don't use the torque wrench.

 

Post by stevejanosik, moved from: https://volvoforums.com/m_73061/mpage_2/tm.htm

Mine XC90 is a V8, after removed the oil filter housing and filter I used a flashlight look up the hole where the filter was. I noticed there is a bolt/screw sticking out from otherwise smooth ceiling. When I look at the oil filter I just removed, there is a dent apparently caused by that bolt/screw. There is no way the new filter will go all the way in to against the top ceiling without have a small gap because of the bolt/screw. Is this normal?

_____________________________

1998 S70 67,120 miles
2006 XC90 43,350 miles
2000 Honda Odyssey 186,900 miles

 

I changed the oil on my V8 XC90 and found it very easy except that I could not read the oil on the dip stick after adding 7 quarts of Castrol Syntec 10W-30. From my 8th quart, I poured a little more in and thought I was seeing the oil at the min marking. Out of frustration, I kept adding a little more and checking the dipstick. Before I knew it, I had poured the entire 8th quart in. In retrospect, I should have stopped at 7 quarts and drove the car waiting for a low oil indication. Should I bother letting a half quart out via the filter? I can't read the dip stick since the oil is so clean.

 

I have 09 xc90 V8, i assume this DIY applies to my model year? Also, when looking up other DIY's what model years would also be compatible with mine?

Thanks!