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  #1  
Old 09-04-2010, 08:47 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Posts: 9
Default Radio and speaker question - need expert advice

I just bought my fifth Volvo - a 2007 S60 AWD

It has the stock HU-650 sound system with "performance" (aka basic) speakers and no amp.

I am starting an upgrade process and will do it in steps.

My first step is to patch in an aftermarket amp, then speakers then a new head unit.

Now, for my first step, I've got patch cables, etc.

My question is this:

Can I plug into the 6-pin DIN connector for pre-amp outs AND keep my speaker outputs intact? In other words, my HU-650 has no pre-amp output - everything runs direct to the 4 paired speakers. Can I leave all those as-is and connect to the pre-amp output thorugh an amp to additional speakers/subwoofer? Or, will the HU-650 toggle the line level outouts off when it sees a draw on the pre amp outputs?
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  #2  
Old 09-05-2010, 10:52 PM
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Posts: 425
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ethyre View Post
I just bought my fifth Volvo - a 2007 S60 AWD

It has the stock HU-650 sound system with "performance" (aka basic) speakers and no amp.

I am starting an upgrade process and will do it in steps.

My first step is to patch in an aftermarket amp, then speakers then a new head unit.

Now, for my first step, I've got patch cables, etc.

My question is this:

Can I plug into the 6-pin DIN connector for pre-amp outs AND keep my speaker outputs intact? In other words, my HU-650 has no pre-amp output - everything runs direct to the 4 paired speakers. Can I leave all those as-is and connect to the pre-amp output thorugh an amp to additional speakers/subwoofer? Or, will the HU-650 toggle the line level outouts off when it sees a draw on the pre amp outputs?
Doubtful the internal amp shuts off when using the DIN output(question has been asked on Swedespeed audio section, uncertain if it was answered). Regardless with noise issues killing a good stereo I would just integrate off the speaker outputs(hi level). Use a good quality component such as an Rockford Fosgate 360.2. If that is out of your price range then use an MTX REQ. Cheaper PAC SNI-35's will work, but the newer pieces give higher sound quality, GL.
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  #3  
Old 09-15-2010, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkc70 View Post
Doubtful the internal amp shuts off when using the DIN output(question has been asked on Swedespeed audio section, uncertain if it was answered). Regardless with noise issues killing a good stereo I would just integrate off the speaker outputs(hi level). Use a good quality component such as an Rockford Fosgate 360.2. If that is out of your price range then use an MTX REQ. Cheaper PAC SNI-35's will work, but the newer pieces give higher sound quality, GL.
+1 on the 360.2
-10000 on the mtx req
-10000000 on the SNI-35
+100000 on a new deck to the OEM speakers

then no need to additional equipment, stereo is only as good as its weakest link. in this case it will start from the HU. just my $0.02
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  #4  
Old 09-16-2010, 01:28 AM
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Originally Posted by gshadow325 View Post
+1 on the 360.2
-10000 on the mtx req
-10000000 on the SNI-35
+100000 on a new deck to the OEM speakers

then no need to additional equipment, stereo is only as good as its weakest link. in this case it will start from the HU. just my $0.02
Kind of surprised with the dislike for any of the items considering they work fine. Also add the fact that the 360.2 and MTX R-EQ were supposedly built by the same guy.
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  #5  
Old 09-16-2010, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by mkc70 View Post
Kind of surprised with the dislike for any of the items considering they work fine. Also add the fact that the 360.2 and MTX R-EQ were supposedly built by the same guy.
i have had experience with both products only second hand. meaning they were both installed at other shops and i removed them.

360.2 worked better than the req. JL's cleansweep worked alot better than both. still nothing replaces a aftermarket deck.
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  #6  
Old 09-16-2010, 09:29 AM
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Originally Posted by gshadow325 View Post
i have had experience with both products only second hand. meaning they were both installed at other shops and i removed them.

360.2 worked better than the req. JL's cleansweep worked alot better than both. still nothing replaces a aftermarket deck.
Well I have first hand experience with all the products mentioned and they all work fine for the price you pay for each. Aftermarket decks are not for everyone, though they have their pros and cons.
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  #7  
Old 09-29-2010, 12:13 AM
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I have a 2010 V50 with Dynaudio. I decided to let a shop run all the wires for me this time as I didn't feel like getting my hands all cut up and scraped trying to get the wires hidden. The shop put a crappy line level converter in, and chose a crappy remote wire source. The audio quality is ok, but I am unsure of what it would actually sound like if it were driven by a non 'converted' source.

I would like to get some RCA outputs off the amp or head unit, but am hesitant to start ripping apart the dash or rear panels. I have heard that the amp is fed by a fiber optic cable, which is cool to avoid grounding issues, but sucks for any sort of aftermarket modifications.

I am stuck with the head unit as it controls the AC and various car settings.

Does anyone know if the head unit has the jumper for this cable: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_1167wt_1149 ?

If not, I guess I am stuck with line level converters. It would be nice to see some scope based tests of the ones on the market. By this I mean showing a graph of the actual audio output from a source, then run that through the car amp and through a line level converter, and compare that to the control source. I am interested to see what the difference in these converters is, and would really like to see some quantitative analysis of them, other than what 'car audio shop employees' are hocking at me.

One last thing.. Does anyone know of a diagram that shows how to get to the back of the factory head unit? I found a couple screws, but am hesitant as I dont want to break any plastic clips accidentally.

Thanks!
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  #8  
Old 09-29-2010, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alives View Post
I have a 2010 V50 with Dynaudio. I decided to let a shop run all the wires for me this time as I didn't feel like getting my hands all cut up and scraped trying to get the wires hidden. The shop put a crappy line level converter in, and chose a crappy remote wire source. The audio quality is ok, but I am unsure of what it would actually sound like if it were driven by a non 'converted' source.

I would like to get some RCA outputs off the amp or head unit, but am hesitant to start ripping apart the dash or rear panels. I have heard that the amp is fed by a fiber optic cable, which is cool to avoid grounding issues, but sucks for any sort of aftermarket modifications.

I am stuck with the head unit as it controls the AC and various car settings.

Does anyone know if the head unit has the jumper for this cable: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ht_1167wt_1149 ?

If not, I guess I am stuck with line level converters. It would be nice to see some scope based tests of the ones on the market. By this I mean showing a graph of the actual audio output from a source, then run that through the car amp and through a line level converter, and compare that to the control source. I am interested to see what the difference in these converters is, and would really like to see some quantitative analysis of them, other than what 'car audio shop employees' are hocking at me.

One last thing.. Does anyone know of a diagram that shows how to get to the back of the factory head unit? I found a couple screws, but am hesitant as I dont want to break any plastic clips accidentally.

Thanks!
Adapter from ebay is not for your setup. Will do you no good to remove the dash as the components of the audio system communicate via optic cables. Reference to head unit in the traditional sense really does not apply.
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  #9  
Old 09-29-2010, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkc70 View Post
Adapter from ebay is not for your setup. Will do you no good to remove the dash as the components of the audio system communicate via optic cables. Reference to head unit in the traditional sense really does not apply.
Yeah, its definitely not a head unit... more like an interface to the car computer.

I was looking for something like this http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=1&t=30204 but have given up. Last night I pried a little too hard and popped some buttons off the console so will have to look into getting that fixed now .

I am just under the impression my line level signals arent including the full range of output. I feel like they might be limited to 50Hz and above, but am not sure.

I really wish volvo had considered this.

Anyone else dealing with this style of stereo?
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  #10  
Old 09-29-2010, 06:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alives View Post
Yeah, its definitely not a head unit... more like an interface to the car computer.

I was looking for something like this http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/for...hp?f=1&t=30204 but have given up. Last night I pried a little too hard and popped some buttons off the console so will have to look into getting that fixed now .

I am just under the impression my line level signals arent including the full range of output. I feel like they might be limited to 50Hz and above, but am not sure.

I really wish volvo had considered this.

Anyone else dealing with this style of stereo?
Only thing without the Volvo info is how to take apart the console and remove the ICM and the 1disc/6disc player. Will hunt the link down for you tomorrow, but it is easy to remove.
Going off memory, pop cigarette piece by center console(between the seats)
remove to 2 torx screws

Remove trim around CD/ICM, start at the top and swing down and off

Pop trim piece off behind console, lower portion of dash. This will give you access to push the ICM out as the 2 hidden clips hold it snug. Remove 2 more torx to get at the CD part.

Amp location uncertain, as I am only familiar with the S40 model which is the left rear of trunk.

Of course these steps could be completely wrong and not apply to your V50

line level converter would not limit the 50Hz, that would be a function of the crossover whether it is internal on your subwoofer amplifier or an external unit.
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Old 09-29-2010, 06:16 PM
 
 
 
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