More Tracs Off and ABS lights.
#1
02-25-2012, 05:47 PM
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Location: Memphis, Tn.
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More Tracs Off and ABS lights.
96 850 Platinum
At first, I was getting 7 error codes in FCR which included all wheel sensor circuits so I pulled the ABS module and re-soldered all the joints that are recommended. Then I was just getting LF, RF and LR sensor and would take longer for the lights on the dash to come on. Next I pulled the fuse box up and soldered the crimped abs wires and the lights stayed off for about a week/200miles. I thought for sure I had it this time until my mom drove the car back from the Mall (20miles) with the E-Brake pulled up. The rear rotors were then warped and the Tracs Off came back on with just 2 codes that both refer the the LR wheel sensor circuit.
I pulled all 4 rotors and had them turned and cleaned the sensors and the toothed wheels at each wheel. I drove 20 miles today and the Tracs light came back on and then 10 miles later the ABS light came on. It still has just the 2 codes. ABS-313 and ABS-323 still LR sensor circuit.
If this is possibly still a joint in the ABS module, anyone know of a diagram that covers the PCB of the module so I would know which pins are for the left rear sensor circuit?
At first, I was getting 7 error codes in FCR which included all wheel sensor circuits so I pulled the ABS module and re-soldered all the joints that are recommended. Then I was just getting LF, RF and LR sensor and would take longer for the lights on the dash to come on. Next I pulled the fuse box up and soldered the crimped abs wires and the lights stayed off for about a week/200miles. I thought for sure I had it this time until my mom drove the car back from the Mall (20miles) with the E-Brake pulled up. The rear rotors were then warped and the Tracs Off came back on with just 2 codes that both refer the the LR wheel sensor circuit.
I pulled all 4 rotors and had them turned and cleaned the sensors and the toothed wheels at each wheel. I drove 20 miles today and the Tracs light came back on and then 10 miles later the ABS light came on. It still has just the 2 codes. ABS-313 and ABS-323 still LR sensor circuit.
If this is possibly still a joint in the ABS module, anyone know of a diagram that covers the PCB of the module so I would know which pins are for the left rear sensor circuit?
Last edited by schigara; 02-25-2012 at 06:02 PM.
#2
02-25-2012, 06:43 PM
Senior Member
In the Volvo service manual I have, it uses a Volvo breakout box to do resistance and voltage diagnostics. However, I would hope that their breakout box terminals and the control module pins would relate in some way that you can maybe figure it out. If not, you could check the ABS wheel speed sensor by itself; it is basically a small generator. I'll copy the relevant diagnostics here.
6) Check resistance between suspect sensor input terminal and
ground. Connect an ohmmeter between test box terminal No. 48 and
ground (left front), No. 47 and ground (right front), No. 46 and
ground (left rear), or No. 45 and ground (right rear). If ohmmeter
indicates no continuity, go to next step. If ohmmeter indicates
continuity exists, go to step 9).
7) Connect a voltmeter and measure AC voltage between suspect
wheel sensor terminals while turning wheel by hand. Connect voltmeter
between test box terminals No. 48 and 30 (left front), No. 47 and 29
(right front), No. 46 and 28 (left rear), and No. 45 and 27 (right
rear). If voltmeter indicates .05-.9 volt, go to step 10). If
voltmeter does not indicate .05-.9 volt, check pulse wheel and sensor
for excess dirt or damage. If pulse wheel is okay, replace wheel
sensor.
9) If ohmmeter indicated continuity in step 6), raise
vehicle. Remove wheel so suspect sensor can be easily accessed. Clean
area around sensor connector, then disconnect connector. Ensure all
dirt on sensor and pulse wheel is removed before lowering vehicle.
Connect an ohmmeter between sensor terminal No. 1 and ground. See
Fig. 4. If ohmmeter indicates no continuity, check wiring for a short
circuit. If ohmmeter indicates continuity, replace wheel sensor.
10) Connect ohmmeter between control module housing and
ground, then between test box terminal No. 1 and ground. Ohmmeter
should indicate continuity in both cases. If continuity is not
present, check that sensor wiring is not too close to sources of
interference, wiring is not loose, or pulse wheel is not damaged. If
no problems are found, replace control module.
ground. Connect an ohmmeter between test box terminal No. 48 and
ground (left front), No. 47 and ground (right front), No. 46 and
ground (left rear), or No. 45 and ground (right rear). If ohmmeter
indicates no continuity, go to next step. If ohmmeter indicates
continuity exists, go to step 9).
7) Connect a voltmeter and measure AC voltage between suspect
wheel sensor terminals while turning wheel by hand. Connect voltmeter
between test box terminals No. 48 and 30 (left front), No. 47 and 29
(right front), No. 46 and 28 (left rear), and No. 45 and 27 (right
rear). If voltmeter indicates .05-.9 volt, go to step 10). If
voltmeter does not indicate .05-.9 volt, check pulse wheel and sensor
for excess dirt or damage. If pulse wheel is okay, replace wheel
sensor.
9) If ohmmeter indicated continuity in step 6), raise
vehicle. Remove wheel so suspect sensor can be easily accessed. Clean
area around sensor connector, then disconnect connector. Ensure all
dirt on sensor and pulse wheel is removed before lowering vehicle.
Connect an ohmmeter between sensor terminal No. 1 and ground. See
Fig. 4. If ohmmeter indicates no continuity, check wiring for a short
circuit. If ohmmeter indicates continuity, replace wheel sensor.
10) Connect ohmmeter between control module housing and
ground, then between test box terminal No. 1 and ground. Ohmmeter
should indicate continuity in both cases. If continuity is not
present, check that sensor wiring is not too close to sources of
interference, wiring is not loose, or pulse wheel is not damaged. If
no problems are found, replace control module.
Last edited by Turkey_Sandwich; 02-25-2012 at 06:45 PM.
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