How hard is to replace Upper torque rod assembly (with bushing)?

 

It's a simple DIY job. You will need Torx bits and wrenches. Remove the bolt going through the bushing, remove the top engine cover (the plastic cover that VOLVO is embossed). Remove the 4 bolts holding the mount to the engine. Replace the mount and reverse the procedure.

 

Thanks, just ordered part from Europarts

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how come you changed the entire mount and not just the bushing?

 

I couldn't find OEM bushing and had bad experience with poly bushing on my 96 850.( Had to reinstal rubber bushing and make special tool for it and waste couple hours to get it done.)
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sorry to hear that, I just this week changed the poly bushing on my s80 and never experienced any of the vibration issues that people seem to complain about so much.. I guess im just lucky.. but the entire thing took me about 10 minutes, two ratchets, one on each end.. just took some arm strength

 

I also would go with the Volvo OEM unit instead of the after-market urethane one. A few months ago an independent Volvo repair shop put in my 2001 V70 (same engine & transmission as the S60) the after-market urethene one, and the vibration was pretty bad in the steering wheel and on the dash when coming up to a stop position........that's where it vibrated. I decided to install a new Volvo OEM part myself (took me two hours with the tools I have.......had to remove the cross bar to get to the back two bolts) but the vibration is 100% improvement. My new Volvo mechanic suggests using the Volvo OEM unit, which has the gromet made of rubber, to better handle the engine vibration issue even if they don't last as long as the urethane after-market unit. He also said the Volvo OEM rubber one has been improved from the first ones they made several years ago. Since the S60 vehicle is smaller size, maybe there's less a problem on the vibration issue. Also, if you belong to one of the clubs like Volvo Club of America, many of the Volvo Dealer Parts Depts will give you 15% discount and it was almost as cheap as ordering an OEM part from a online site and I got it immediately, no shipping costs, and installed the same day.

 

Thanks everybody. I did it today. First had to remove the cross bar than remove the bolt going through the bushing, remove the top engine cover, remove the 4 bolts holding the mount to the engine. Used 14, 15, 17, 19 mm wrenches and 25 Torx bit. Took me 45 minutes and two beers.
That was really easy and good part of this story.
Bad part was earlier when FEDEX delivered part. I ordered part from eEuroparts.com like I posted before on picture is mount with square bushing. When opened box I found older stile mount with round bushing. That did not make me happy camper. I called them and complain. They knew right away what I was talking about. That made me very mad. I think they were trying to get rid of older models.I suggested that they should change pic on their website bat it seemed they don't care. They told me to return part if I don't like it. I need car tomorrow ( going on longer trip ) so had to install this mount. I am never again ordering anything from eEuroparts. Same part like they send to me for $54 I could buy elsewhere for $41 http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...ine_mount.html
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04 S60 R
96 850 n/a
97 Suzuki Sidekick

 

im sorry to hear about your experience with them, they have always been good to me.
eg. i ordered a new tranny filter and gasket ($15 andf $10 respectively) and when i got the filter didnt realise it came with a gasket, emailed asking if i can trutn the extra gasket, they said keep it and refunded me the $10 as well... was excellent service.
i guess they have inconsistent service in that case? my argument was that at no point did it state that their filter came with a gasket, i couldnt assume that

 

My 02 S60 needs the top mount replaced.. My question... Do I need to brace/lift the engine to remove the top mount?

 

Nope. The engine is not going anywhere. The engine is supported completely by the lower mounts. The top mount is for vibration damping.

 

Just that simple... Just that easy...
The old bushing was just floating there.

Took me a little over an hour, including changing a bad turn signal socket and de-crudding the engine compartment from winter grime and an accidential off-roading adventure.

Needed a T25 and a T30 torx to get the plastics out of the way along with the misc sockets listed in this thread

Thanks again

2002 S60 2.4T

 

Once you have the part installed - is there any side to side play in the mount where it attaches to the cross bar? Or is the thing bolted on tight?

I have the later square mount and I am noting some play - but not sure if this is normal.

Cheers

 

I think since it is tighten to the rubber there should be some play.

 

No, you just unbolt the four bolts on the assembly...........but I also removed the cross bar too because I had limited tools and I couldn't reach all the rear bolts without removing that bar. You also have to unscrew the hex bolts on the top engine cover since the left corner covers over one of the mount's bolts.