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  #11  
Old 06-24-2007, 04:06 PM
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1
Default RE: Dash board removal for mounting tab repair

The two right side tabs on mine are broken. Is there anywhere I can simply get a replacement part?
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  #12  
Old 06-24-2007, 05:45 PM
tech's Avatar
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Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 36,443
Default RE: Dash board removal for mounting tab repair

No you have to repair them.
They are made into the defrost vents in the dash system.
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1987 Ford mustang LX Coupe 5.0
1995 Yellow T5-RM running
1996 850 turbo
1994 N/A 5-speed wagon Purple (daughters)
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  #13  
Old 08-09-2007, 08:35 PM
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
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Posts: 12
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Default RE: Dash board removal for mounting tab repair

Hey All,
Tech gave some pretty good detailed instructions. I came across some instructions a while back for the same project. What a long, drawn out project. Make sure before you start, you have the entire day set aside. Preferably start Saturday Morning, just in case something goes wrong, you have Sunday to recover.

Well I couldn't find the original thread anymore so here is a carbon copy.

First of all, let me say that this was done on a 1999 S70 and will work for all trims. It could possibly be different for 1998 and will more than likely be different for 850's.

One of the main reasons your dash is squeaking/ratteling is because 4 studs that screw into the firewall have shattered. These are the tools and supplies you'll need:

-General tools and sockets
-Torx screwdrivers
-thin strips of aluminum or other maluable metal.
-wood screws
-new screw plates (only if you are missing any)
-Zip-Ties (optional)

Ok. Here are the steps at a glance:[/b]

**DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE (-) LEAD TO THE BATTERY TO AVOID AN SRS CODE** (but make sure electric seats are all the way back first!!)

1.) Take off the top dash pad and remove other accessories.
2.) Remove the center console.
3.) Remove the windshield wiper cover.
4.) Remove steering wheel+turn signal and windshield wiper stalks.
5.) Remove lots of T25 screws and a yellow plug.

1.) Removing the dash pad and other accessories.[/b]

Open the glovebox door and start taking out all the T25 screws you see. Give the box a good jerk and pull it out. Again, pull out all the T25 screws you see and set them aside. The bottom row should release the bottom storage compartment.
Pry out all of the air vents and stereo mesh on the pad. Unscrew the seven T25 screws behind all of them. There are two screws above/in front of the instrument cluster. Remove these screws.
Click the image to open in full size.
Now direct your attention to the glovebox. Along the top are three 10mm bolts holding in the dash pad.
Click the image to open in full size.
Lift off the dash pad and notice the passenger airbag is still connected; pinch the ends of the connector on the end of the module and pull out, then slide out the clip on the bottom.
The dash pad can now be easily lifted out. Now remove your radio, thermostat controls, and hazard light switch.

2.) Remove the center console.[/b]

Open the armrest and pry out the cover at the bottom. Underneath are two 8mm screws that hold the entire console in. Unscrew them.
Release the parking break (if enabled) and pull the cover towards the drivers seat until it snaps out. Underneath, there are two white connectors. Seperate them. From here, put the car in neutral and lift up on the entire console and pull it out of the car.
The center console should now be out of the car.

3.) Removing the windshileld wiper cover.[/b]

Remove the caps on the windshield wiper stalks. Use a 13mm socket to remove the windshield wipers.
Remove these five screws:
Click the image to open in full size.
Pry off the clamps holding the two rubber drain hoses on both sides off.

4.) Removing the steering wheel.[/b]

Remove the three screws on the bottom of the steering column cover and pull off the bottom half. The bottom half can be pried out like so:
Click the image to open in full size.
Turn the key to Position | or || and turn the wheel sideways. Unscrew the two screws to pry out the airbag (you will need a long T25(possibly T30) screwdriver). It takes a little bit of persuading, but it'll come off.
Next, remove the white plug that fits in the back of the airbag. It pulls straight out. Next, unscrew the big screw in the middle of the wheel. You will now see some splines. Take a ultra-fine point sharpie or pencil and mark a straight line across the diameter. This will help make sure you put the wheel back on straight.
You can now pull off the wheel. Remove the wiper and turn signal stalks.
Click the image to open in full size.


5.) Remove LOTS of T25 screws and yellow plug.[/b]

Now back to the interior. There is a black cover that pops out on the very far outside bottom of the dash. Pull straight towards the back of the car and it will pop out. Behind will be, you guessed it, another T25! Remove the one on both the drivers and passengers side.
Next, lay in the drivers foot well and look up towards the relays and you will see a yellow plug. Pull out the purple retainer and just lift out the yellow plug!
Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.
If you want pictures of the entire wiring harness just let me know and i'll post it up!
From here you should now be able to lift/contort the entire dash out!
Click the image to open in full size.
Picture of Socals just a little more clearer:
Click the image to open in full size.

Now to fix the problem![/b]Thanks Socal!

This is your problem
Click the image to open in full size.
There are 4 plastic clips (which are molded into the defrost vent and the dash console itself) that go over 4 square nuts, which are what the 4 bolts in the firewall screw into.

When plastic breaks the square nuts are no longer being held in place and the dashboard is no longer attached to the firewall.

The crude but effective fix I came up with, was to make some rough metal strips which hold the nut against the dash, and which are screwed into the defrost vent. After padding it around the strap and reassembling, it totally eliminated the racket that my dash was making.

You can see the long bolts sticking out of the dash, I was checking to make sure they went through correctly.
Click the image to open in full size.

I will have Seamus' method up soon as well whenever i find it.

Reinstall everything in reverse order!




Good Luck and Happy Wrenching!
[/align]
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  #14  
Old 02-29-2008, 09:59 AM
kks kks is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 21
Default RE: Dash board removal for mounting tab repair

so what happens if you don't fix the mounting tabs?
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  #15  
Old 02-29-2008, 06:07 PM
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Location: Orlando, Florida
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Default RE: Dash board removal for mounting tab repair

Nothing really the noise is just so annoying!!!
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1987 Ford mustang LX Coupe 5.0
1995 Yellow T5-RM running
1996 850 turbo
1994 N/A 5-speed wagon Purple (daughters)
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  #16  
Old 02-29-2008, 06:26 PM
kks kks is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 21
Default RE: Dash board removal for mounting tab repair

thanks tech. so how much does the repair cost?
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  #17  
Old 02-29-2008, 06:37 PM
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Default RE: Dash board removal for mounting tab repair

We charge about 2 to 3 hours labor at our shop bepending on how bad it is.
Check around at local indipendant shops.
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1987 Ford mustang LX Coupe 5.0
1995 Yellow T5-RM running
1996 850 turbo
1994 N/A 5-speed wagon Purple (daughters)
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  #18  
Old 02-22-2009, 01:47 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: beaumont, tx
Posts: 5
Default

glad this is sticky. MyS70Glt, that diagram is great. Thanks for providing it. I just bought an s70 with terrible dash noises. It seems to be exactly those tabs.

Also, I too am curious about those cheap trim kits on ebay. I've got a couple of cracked trim pieces that could use replacing, among other broken interior parts.
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  #19  
Old 03-01-2009, 03:42 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 2
Default Broken and hopeless?

These are great postings and instructions. My shop wanted $800. to just remove and install the dash. Repairs/ replacement parts would have been extra. Had a completely loose dash assembly in my 97' 850 T-5. Took it apart and now see that all the mounts are in a hundred pieces. I can't see a way to reconstruct the mounts (holding nuts). There is nothing to go by anymore. I think I'm left with ordering a replacement from the dealer. I saved $800. though and feel good about that. Thanks guys. Mike
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  #20  
Old 03-01-2009, 09:03 PM
tech's Avatar
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Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 36,443
Default

Wait till you get the price from the Dealer I think they are about 2K for a new one.
Try to find a used one.
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1987 Ford mustang LX Coupe 5.0
1995 Yellow T5-RM running
1996 850 turbo
1994 N/A 5-speed wagon Purple (daughters)
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Old 03-01-2009, 09:03 PM
 
 
 
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1996, 1998, 850, break, dash, dashboard, loose, mounting, removal, remove, repair, s70, squeak, tab, volvo


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