Dont buy a new dash. You can make the metal nuts work like in the picture above. Use metal strapping to hold them "loosley" in place so that the bolts can connect. It'll work just look at the photo above.

VF

 

I bought a used dash today for $75 at a local Volvo wrecking yard. All 4 mounting tabs are still intact too! I figured for that price, it would be easier and faster than fixing the existing one.

To make sure this "new one" lasts a long time, what would you recommend doing prior to putting this one in?

I was thinking of putting in some screws as posts around the mounting tab, and then putting jb weld around the whole area. The screws would give the jb weld an extra something to adhere to as I'm not sure how well it'll adhere to the plastic. I was also thinking of squeezing in the jb weld inside the mounting tab around the metal nut so that it all becomes one solid piece.

Or, would it be better to just use the piping strap (or aluminum metal flashing) as mentioned before?

Just in case, are there other places I should add felt, other than the 4 mounting tabs and that one other felt covered tab?

 

I would just use the piping strap to secure now before putting it in.

 

horizontal or vertical placement? is any orientation easier or better?

 

I would run it up and over the clip.
Just like I did here.

 

Thanks for the picture.

Question: how exactly do the mounting tabs get shattered and broken into pieces? Is it more of an up and down or side to side movement of the dashboard? Does the piping strap help with the vibrations, movement?

I just noticed that although my tabs are all in good shape, at the base of one of them, there is a small crack starting. If it were to continue, I would think the whole tab would break off rather than break apart. That's why I was thinking a good amount of jb weld might help to join everything together.

 

I think it is more of an up and down action.

I have done that to fix shattered mounts and tried pulling on the dash 1 year later and it was still tight up against the firewall.

If you think it will be safer to add the JB weld then put the piping strap on then JB weld and install it. After I put the piping strap on I put some duct tape over the strap to make sure there is no noises after instillation.

 

On my current dash, and the used one I bought, there are many cracks at the top near the LED for the alarm. Is there anything I can do to minimize future cracks, or will stablizing the mounting tabs fix also work towards resolving that too?

 

Fixing the mounts should take care of most of that. But they all crack like that no matter what.

 

Hi,

I am a 2001 C70 T5 owner, and this problem also annoys me to much and even the screws that are holding glove box are braking day by day. I am planning to find a new dash from the junkyard.

My first question is if S70 Dash is same as C70s?

Secondly, after removing dash pad first, is the rest of the dash one piece? The reason I am asking this is the part close to windshield has also cracks. So I would like to also renew that part as well. Could you please assist. Many thanks.

 

The dashes should be the same except the top part if you have the center speaker.

But the part by the windshield is part of the main dash.

 

Yes I have Dolby with thecenter speake, but I have no problem with the dash pad.

My main dash, is moving so, I guess main dash of S70 and C70 are same. Am I right. Many thanks.

 

They should be exactly the same.

 

FYI for anyone thinking of getting a new dash (instrument panel, does not include the top cover). My dash mounts were in tiny bits and pieces. My local dealer gave me a quote of over $3,000. based on using my VIN. I have the 850T-5 with wood ingrained panel. Myswedishparts.com which is located in a dealer in Texas gave me an option of $650 for a solid plastic dash or $2,200 for the replacement wood grain. Shipping was $40. I did the reinforcement steps on these mounts, had a little trouble lining up the four firewall bolts, but eventually got it and I'm happy. The old dash had a bunch of broken tabs here and there. This new one is solid throughout. Be careful disconnecting all the wiring. The plastic doesn't hold up on old cars. I found and replaced a damaged clockspring in the drivers airbag and I replaced all the lights in the dash.

 

manythanks for your support. Are you able to provide me the product number of main dash panel which causes noise and is loose and which lies under the top dash pad. Thanks.

 

I will try to dig up pics for you.

 

How do I properly swap the VIN number from my car onto the replacement dash? The person doing the dashboard swap for me said it needs a special rivet ...

 

Push the center pin in and then slide the rest out and install in reverse order on the newer dash.

 

So, it's not a special rivet at all? Rivets are one time use, and this VIN "rivet" is just a special pin? If he pushes the pin in to remove the VIN, does he just push the pin from underneath to get it back to the original position?

Thanks for the super fast reply!

 

The center pin will push all the way out and leave another piece in the vin plate. Once the center pin is out the other part will just fall out. Then once everything is on the new dash just put the center pin back in.