98 v70 t5m won't crank after dead battery
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05-12-2015, 06:27 AM
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98 v70 t5m won't crank after dead battery
Hello, I'm having strange problems with my 98 Volvo V70 T5 with a manual transmission.
Background.
A couple weeks ago a friend was borrowing my car and he got a flat tire. He was unable to get the tire off and waited for AAA to show up. While waiting he left the hazards on and the battery went dead. He then got it towed to his house. He said that when they dropped it off the battery was dead and they jumped it and let it run for a little bit.
I showed up a few days later and changed the tire and tried to start it. It cranked slowly for a couple seconds before the starter solenoid started clicking indicating the battery was out of juice.
This is where the trouble starts.
After hooking up the jumper cables the car wouldn't crank at all. All the dash lights would come on as would my headlights but won't crank. All fuses were checked and rechecked. All tested fine fine for continuity.
Some odd things started to happen as well. The oil light would stay on even with the key removed and the clock and odometer stay on all the time (this last one may be normal but I don't remember it from before).
We tried tapping the starter and solenoid with a hammer but still nothing. We ended up getting it towed to my dads house.
Got it back there and this weekend I replaced the starter with a junkyard unit (bench tested fine) but still no cranking. I am getting 12v to the terminal on the starter solenoid but not to the solenoid signal wire. I bench tested the starter relay (tested fine clicks with 12v applied and gets continuity across the other poles) If I jump the solenoid to the battery the car will crank over but not run even with the key in the run position.
I've tried two different batteries just in case.
That's when I realized that the fuel pump isn't getting enough voltage either (my fuel pressure guage wouldn't fit the schrader valve so I set the car to run and pushed in on the valve with a screw driver. The fuel just dropped out not sprayed like it would if it were under pressure). In fact I'm getting only 1.36v to the ignition coil, fuel pump fuse, and ecu fuse (I'm assuming other thugs as well but those are the ones I checked). I am getting 12v across the ignition switch fuse.
Some orher weird issues are happening now. Instrument cluster lights stay on when the key is in the run position (position II) such as the gas light stays on when the guage shows half a hand and the emergency brake light stays on after I take the brake off. The weirdest one is when I tried to pull codes from the computer it attempts to read them and before it gives up and says "no link" my dome lights flash of and on about five times. I don't know how that is possible.
I've tried grounding the engine to the battery with jumper cables but it hasn't changed anything and with the cable disconnected I get very little resistance between the engine block and the ground terminal on the battery.
I guess my questions are as follows.
1. I don't get continuity between the starter relay and the starter solenoid wire. Is there somewhere else it goes between the two?
2. Is this an immobilizer issue? I've heard about them and have tried the lock unlock with my key but to no avail. The horn doesn't honk and the flashers aren't flashing.
3. Could this be an ignition switch issue? (All my other stuff works. Windows, instruments, heater fan. But won't crank and low voltage to other things after the ignition switch. I haven't taken it apart to meter it. Wiggling the key in the ignition has yelled no results)
4. Does any part of the starter system run through the ecu?
5. Does anyone have a schematic for the car? I got the manual from volvomanuals.com but it's just locations of components and not an actual schematic.
Any help would be appreciated. I love my car and want to save it.
-Dan
Background.
A couple weeks ago a friend was borrowing my car and he got a flat tire. He was unable to get the tire off and waited for AAA to show up. While waiting he left the hazards on and the battery went dead. He then got it towed to his house. He said that when they dropped it off the battery was dead and they jumped it and let it run for a little bit.
I showed up a few days later and changed the tire and tried to start it. It cranked slowly for a couple seconds before the starter solenoid started clicking indicating the battery was out of juice.
This is where the trouble starts.
After hooking up the jumper cables the car wouldn't crank at all. All the dash lights would come on as would my headlights but won't crank. All fuses were checked and rechecked. All tested fine fine for continuity.
Some odd things started to happen as well. The oil light would stay on even with the key removed and the clock and odometer stay on all the time (this last one may be normal but I don't remember it from before).
We tried tapping the starter and solenoid with a hammer but still nothing. We ended up getting it towed to my dads house.
Got it back there and this weekend I replaced the starter with a junkyard unit (bench tested fine) but still no cranking. I am getting 12v to the terminal on the starter solenoid but not to the solenoid signal wire. I bench tested the starter relay (tested fine clicks with 12v applied and gets continuity across the other poles) If I jump the solenoid to the battery the car will crank over but not run even with the key in the run position.
I've tried two different batteries just in case.
That's when I realized that the fuel pump isn't getting enough voltage either (my fuel pressure guage wouldn't fit the schrader valve so I set the car to run and pushed in on the valve with a screw driver. The fuel just dropped out not sprayed like it would if it were under pressure). In fact I'm getting only 1.36v to the ignition coil, fuel pump fuse, and ecu fuse (I'm assuming other thugs as well but those are the ones I checked). I am getting 12v across the ignition switch fuse.
Some orher weird issues are happening now. Instrument cluster lights stay on when the key is in the run position (position II) such as the gas light stays on when the guage shows half a hand and the emergency brake light stays on after I take the brake off. The weirdest one is when I tried to pull codes from the computer it attempts to read them and before it gives up and says "no link" my dome lights flash of and on about five times. I don't know how that is possible.
I've tried grounding the engine to the battery with jumper cables but it hasn't changed anything and with the cable disconnected I get very little resistance between the engine block and the ground terminal on the battery.
I guess my questions are as follows.
1. I don't get continuity between the starter relay and the starter solenoid wire. Is there somewhere else it goes between the two?
2. Is this an immobilizer issue? I've heard about them and have tried the lock unlock with my key but to no avail. The horn doesn't honk and the flashers aren't flashing.
3. Could this be an ignition switch issue? (All my other stuff works. Windows, instruments, heater fan. But won't crank and low voltage to other things after the ignition switch. I haven't taken it apart to meter it. Wiggling the key in the ignition has yelled no results)
4. Does any part of the starter system run through the ecu?
5. Does anyone have a schematic for the car? I got the manual from volvomanuals.com but it's just locations of components and not an actual schematic.
Any help would be appreciated. I love my car and want to save it.
-Dan
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