ayudame! 98 v70 awd 2.4L turbo
my brakes began being very hard to press and took seconds before they would barely activate. the LR pad was worn completely, (which, I think is a separate issue of the piston in the caliper not retracting.) the RR was about halfway done for, fronts fine.
I replaced the rear pads and sprung for rotors (since I was told they were awful), then only hard brake going about halfway down, (like before) but no braking whatsoever.
I did not have the cap off at the master cylinder when I pushed the caliper pistons in, which is where I think (limited in experience as I am) I must have made a clog.
only got drips at first when attempting to bleed and now nothing.
to make matters worse, a 'helper' blew indirectly at it with an air hose to clear out metal shaving from when we replaced a snapped bleeder screw, ended up blowing some fluid up out of the reservoir (so no clog?)
and this is when the pedal went completely soft and started hitting the floor. there aren't any leaks but is there I way I can force it to flush back down and out?
is there a way to remove my master cylinder and check it? never done this much to a car but I know I can and will fix it, I just have to know what I'm doing first.
I'm as broke as a glowstick and stranded in a town so small there is no mechanic here who knows enough to want to come near me when I say Volvo.
internet says I can blast through each piece at a time with rubbing alcohol? any experience or place to start with taking it apart one piece at a time until I find and clear it would truly be a life saver for me and my girl. thanks a billion!

 

Not sure where you live where a mechanic would shy away from working on a Volvo. Brakes are all a common design and about the only thing you may need that's not standard is a 7mm allen bit. Pads and rotors are easy to find and worst case is you shop online.

idea of removing the reservoir cap is to get the float out to make room for the fluid pressed out of the calipers. If you "blew bubbles" out of the reservoir, chances are you now have air in the master cylinder so that will need to be bled. Check YouTube for vids on how to do that. Its also possible that one of your calipers is sticking - which can cause one side of the pads to wear sooner than the rest.

You may want to see if you can buy/rent a power bleeder (some force pressure from the reservoir which in turn transfers to the calipers when you pump the brakes), others use a vacuum on the bleed screw to pull the fluid.

As to the original hard pedal, that can be a sign of a clogged line, stuck caliper or a stuck valve in the ABS. I was able to find a used ABS valve body for $65 for my S40 when that stopped giving pressure to one wheel (causing the diagonal to lock up).

 

I've tried power bleeding I now have a twenty dollar pressure bleeder but it's barely drawing out drops. I am going to try a bench bleed today, but I think there is a clog as well. I should replace the hoses but everything is stuck together pretty good. how could I clean a clog without damaging any parts?
also, it's in Oklahoma, some tiny town, there's only like four mechanics here and since I can't take it to the big city forty minutes from here, I'm learning a lot. my pads and rotors are replaced but nothing is coming out when I bleed

 

so I've called two mechanics out here who have given up without doing much. one thinks it is the abs, since we got fluid out of the mc. one thinks it's the booster, one thinks it's the abs. the abs light isn't on. there's a whoosh when I press the brake, and if I pump it enough times while the car is running, I get pressure. any advice please?