Looking at buying my first V70XC, has a few problems, any suggestions?
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Looking at buying my first V70XC, has a few problems, any suggestions?
Hey guys and gals, been awhile since I've posted. Sold my 97 850 to a friend awhile back and have missed it ever since (nothing I've driven can match the comfort and performance of the 850)...
So heres the thing. I found a local seller who has a 98 V70XC for sale with about 200k miles on it. Overall in good shape, he's had it a bit over a year and recently picked up a 2002 V70XC. He's a bit of an enthusiast and has been driving Volvo's since the 70s (has a '72 444 sitting in his garage).
First and foremost, the drive shaft on this particular 98 needs rebuilt (rear cv joint is toast). Its been removed from the car and is running in FWD mode. From the research I've done, I'm ok with that since it seems to be a common problem, and the 98 MY can be rebuilt with new cv's/joints for about $400.
So here's the rundown on the rest of the car from what I was able to gather today:
The timing belt was replaced recently, but he says without looking at the records he is unsure off the top of his head when.
The PCV system he wasn't sure if its been serviced or not (I'll expect to do it anyhow if I buy the car, for peace of mind)
It doesn't burn any oil/coolant or blow any smoke. He did say that he replaced the battery and after that on first startup it blew a bit of smoke but hasn't done it since.
Turbo is in good condition and pulls well I'm told. Only issue is the coolant return line is weeping a bit, but not enough to drop the level in the tank.
The ABS light is on and he states the previous owner had a wooden block wedged between the control module and firewall. This makes me suspect that its solder joints on the CM power connector inside the box (Like my 850, easy fix that doesn't have me too concerned).
Suspension is good, front ball joints replaced within the past year, and it has brand new 15" tires all around.
Overall it sounds like a decent deal, but what has me concerned is that lack of power. If I buy the car I plan to use it to replace my dying Protege5 to commute 3 hours to work, and there are a lot of uphill runs on the drive. Asking price is $950, but from the sounds of it I should be able to talk him down much lower (I'm thinking around $500-$700 range, he's had it sitting for about 2-3 months now since buying the 02 and wants it gone to make room for his 1800 project)
Anyone have any experience dealing with symptoms like this? What was your fix? My first thoughts are tune up (plugs, wires dist cap/coils, new filters, check for boost leaks, etc) then look at the possibility of a clogged cat converter or injectors. He did say though that it seems like the transmission isn't shifting though, which makes me wonder...could it be related to the bevel gear problems I keep reading about on these cars?
Any info you folks can provide is much appreciated! Thanks!
So heres the thing. I found a local seller who has a 98 V70XC for sale with about 200k miles on it. Overall in good shape, he's had it a bit over a year and recently picked up a 2002 V70XC. He's a bit of an enthusiast and has been driving Volvo's since the 70s (has a '72 444 sitting in his garage).
First and foremost, the drive shaft on this particular 98 needs rebuilt (rear cv joint is toast). Its been removed from the car and is running in FWD mode. From the research I've done, I'm ok with that since it seems to be a common problem, and the 98 MY can be rebuilt with new cv's/joints for about $400.
So here's the rundown on the rest of the car from what I was able to gather today:
The timing belt was replaced recently, but he says without looking at the records he is unsure off the top of his head when.
The PCV system he wasn't sure if its been serviced or not (I'll expect to do it anyhow if I buy the car, for peace of mind)
It doesn't burn any oil/coolant or blow any smoke. He did say that he replaced the battery and after that on first startup it blew a bit of smoke but hasn't done it since.
Turbo is in good condition and pulls well I'm told. Only issue is the coolant return line is weeping a bit, but not enough to drop the level in the tank.
The ABS light is on and he states the previous owner had a wooden block wedged between the control module and firewall. This makes me suspect that its solder joints on the CM power connector inside the box (Like my 850, easy fix that doesn't have me too concerned).
Suspension is good, front ball joints replaced within the past year, and it has brand new 15" tires all around.
Overall it sounds like a decent deal, but what has me concerned is that lack of power. If I buy the car I plan to use it to replace my dying Protege5 to commute 3 hours to work, and there are a lot of uphill runs on the drive. Asking price is $950, but from the sounds of it I should be able to talk him down much lower (I'm thinking around $500-$700 range, he's had it sitting for about 2-3 months now since buying the 02 and wants it gone to make room for his 1800 project)
Anyone have any experience dealing with symptoms like this? What was your fix? My first thoughts are tune up (plugs, wires dist cap/coils, new filters, check for boost leaks, etc) then look at the possibility of a clogged cat converter or injectors. He did say though that it seems like the transmission isn't shifting though, which makes me wonder...could it be related to the bevel gear problems I keep reading about on these cars?
Any info you folks can provide is much appreciated! Thanks!
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Bevel gears are separate from the transmission - think of them as a co-located differential that turns the power 90 degrees. In terms of the power, could it be it has the "light pressure turbo" vs the the high pressure turbo you had in your 97? When you suggest the transmission is not shifting through - not sure what that means. That should throw a transmission code - so you may want to do a full OBD2 scan. I'm sure you'd notice if the car were trying to start in 2nd gear (like the "winter mode" does on the 850s). If you do decide to buy, first is to check when the timing belt is due, next is to do a stage 0 tune up (plugs/wires/cap/coils etc) if they are old or unknown. You may need to check the front O2 sensor and check for any vacuum hose issues - but again those would likely throw a check engine code. Finally if the tranny is not shifting smoothly, check fluid levels/color and consider a drain/fill procedure. To test for a clogged cat, you can try pulling one of the O2 sensors to give it some vent space and see if it runs better open.
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Bevel gears are separate from the transmission - think of them as a co-located differential that turns the power 90 degrees. In terms of the power, could it be it has the "light pressure turbo" vs the the high pressure turbo you had in your 97? When you suggest the transmission is not shifting through - not sure what that means. That should throw a transmission code - so you may want to do a full OBD2 scan. I'm sure you'd notice if the car were trying to start in 2nd gear (like the "winter mode" does on the 850s). If you do decide to buy, first is to check when the timing belt is due, next is to do a stage 0 tune up (plugs/wires/cap/coils etc) if they are old or unknown. You may need to check the front O2 sensor and check for any vacuum hose issues - but again those would likely throw a check engine code. Finally if the tranny is not shifting smoothly, check fluid levels/color and consider a drain/fill procedure. To test for a clogged cat, you can try pulling one of the O2 sensors to give it some vent space and see if it runs better open.
AFAIK, there are no codes/CELs being thrown, but I do plan to take an OBDII scanner with me to check and see if anything is stored.
If I can get it for an even better steal of a deal than the $950 he's asking, I'm definitely considering jumping on it. The Mazda will get me around for now, but she's starting to get a bit grouchy with start up due to the oil consumption (and I suspect bad rings/compression is causing it since they had low tension rings)... It'll be nice to have AWD again once I fix the drive shaft, after having a run of bad luck with all the subaru's I bought after the 850 (4 in 2 years
), thats really what has my eye on this. Been a rough winter here this year and with me driving 160 miles round trip for work 3x a week on forest roads, well...Definitely plan to do stage 0 first and foremost...
Slightly off topic, in my research it seems there are a few different options with the AWD XC70 for a bit more power...Its my understanding these cars come stock with a 13t, and the 16t is a direct swap...is that correct? Also, I've read there are 2 different rear suspension setups (nivomat vs standard), and that all of the 98 XC70s came with the Nivomat setup, is that correct? I'd eventually like to put stiffer suspension on the car and lower it a bit for handling, but from what I've read there aren't many options when it comes to the Nivomat setup... Would the koni yellows with IPD springs from an 850 work? Its my understanding that the xc70 is essentially an 850 with added AWD and a more rounded front end...
I've got the appointment set to meet up with the current owner on 2/24 to look over/drive the car and see what I can come up with. Trying to get all my ducks in a row now though so I know what to look for/inspect when I get there...
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I've been thinking about this no power uphill issue he mentioned to me a bit more the past few days.
He said something along the lines at first that it seemed like the turbo didn't seem to be spooling up. Like its struggling for speed and doesn't have any power... But what has me concerned is he did say it seems like the transmission isn't shifting on uphill drives, although it seems to be working ok on flat ground and shifts/drives fine...Turbo spools up, etc.
Really leaning towards the idea of a fuel/spark problem, possibly clogged injectors or fuel filter...Or perhaps this could be related to the PCV system (since its an unknown if it was maintained..) Could it maybe be related to the lack of a driveshaft to power the rear wheels?
Does anyone have any other suggestions or have they dealt with an issue like this before? Going tomorrow afternoon after a dentist appointment to check it over and take it for a drive...That'll determine if I want to buy or now. It really is a clean car from the pics I saw on craigslist. But I've found a few others in the same price range that seem like they've been better maintained (albeit not awd, which is what really has me looking at this V70xc tomorrow)...
He said something along the lines at first that it seemed like the turbo didn't seem to be spooling up. Like its struggling for speed and doesn't have any power... But what has me concerned is he did say it seems like the transmission isn't shifting on uphill drives, although it seems to be working ok on flat ground and shifts/drives fine...Turbo spools up, etc.
Really leaning towards the idea of a fuel/spark problem, possibly clogged injectors or fuel filter...Or perhaps this could be related to the PCV system (since its an unknown if it was maintained..) Could it maybe be related to the lack of a driveshaft to power the rear wheels?
Does anyone have any other suggestions or have they dealt with an issue like this before? Going tomorrow afternoon after a dentist appointment to check it over and take it for a drive...That'll determine if I want to buy or now. It really is a clean car from the pics I saw on craigslist. But I've found a few others in the same price range that seem like they've been better maintained (albeit not awd, which is what really has me looking at this V70xc tomorrow)...
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Well, made the trip down today to look over the car. Found a few things wrong with it.
First, the PCV system needs done. Pulled the dipstick and there came the smoke.
Car idles a bit rough, like its misfiring. Also acts like it has a bad motor mount, NVH in cabin are pretty bad when rev'd. Clears up when car goes into reverse though...
As for thte no power thing: The tranny shifts, but to get power I really had to mash the gas down about 65% throttle to get up and go, and the car really didnt seem to like it much. Its really acting like its only running on 3-4 cylinders. Both o2 sensors registered from 0.2 to 0.8 on the monitors. No stored codes/current lights (prior to me unplugging the MAF anyhow).
Tranny needs a drain and fill something fierce. Fluid was brown and smelled burnt.
Latch for tailgate is broken, wont close/latch all the way, so the idiot light is on and it rattles a bit. The car needs work in the right front, suspect its a spring seat/strut mount etc. Its banging around pretty good over bumps current owner replaced the control arm on that side...Oddly enough, my 850 did the same thing after control arm replacement...
Unplugged the MAF sensor while the car was running. It smoothed out ever so slightly, but really no change. had the monitor on the scan tool, showed the MAF was registering ok.
Owner states he's running regular unleaded, not premium. Could have something to do with it (although the ecu should compensate for this...)
Timing advance was all over the place at idle. Oil return line at turbo is leaking, as well as the coolant line that runs across the top of the exhaust manifold (corroded). Coolant temp was coming in around 225 F steady, and fans were kicking on with no trouble.
Kinda suspecting a slipped timing belt... Which is a shame because the rest of the car is fantastic and worth repairing the small issues with it. From what I can see, the car would need at very least:
New plugs, wires, cap/rotor
Oil change (BG 44k/MOA, synth oil, filter)
Transmission drain and fill (BG synth fluid in the 10 gallon box)
Fuel filter
Turbo return lines/gaskets
PCV flame trap kit
Timing belt/water pump service (for peace of mind)
2 cans of seafoam (1/2 can intake/half can oil, 1 can gas tank)
New battery (to replace the non sealed wrong size one in the car now)
Motor mounts (rear, possibly front)
drive shaft rebuild
I offered him $500 for it. He is asking $950 and says his bottom line is $750. Told him if he changes his mind I'll be there with cash in hand. Honestly I think $500 is really pushing it for a possible timing belt being slipped...But it has brand new tires on it and a new(ish) battery. Worse case I can pull the wheels/tires and sell them, then scrap the car for $350-$400....
Sharing the ad. What do you guys think? Worth the time/effort? I'm not afraid to turn the wrenches and do the work, only thing that really scares me though is the possible timing belt issue...
1998 Volvo V70 XC
First, the PCV system needs done. Pulled the dipstick and there came the smoke.
Car idles a bit rough, like its misfiring. Also acts like it has a bad motor mount, NVH in cabin are pretty bad when rev'd. Clears up when car goes into reverse though...
As for thte no power thing: The tranny shifts, but to get power I really had to mash the gas down about 65% throttle to get up and go, and the car really didnt seem to like it much. Its really acting like its only running on 3-4 cylinders. Both o2 sensors registered from 0.2 to 0.8 on the monitors. No stored codes/current lights (prior to me unplugging the MAF anyhow).
Tranny needs a drain and fill something fierce. Fluid was brown and smelled burnt.
Latch for tailgate is broken, wont close/latch all the way, so the idiot light is on and it rattles a bit. The car needs work in the right front, suspect its a spring seat/strut mount etc. Its banging around pretty good over bumps current owner replaced the control arm on that side...Oddly enough, my 850 did the same thing after control arm replacement...
Unplugged the MAF sensor while the car was running. It smoothed out ever so slightly, but really no change. had the monitor on the scan tool, showed the MAF was registering ok.
Owner states he's running regular unleaded, not premium. Could have something to do with it (although the ecu should compensate for this...)
Timing advance was all over the place at idle. Oil return line at turbo is leaking, as well as the coolant line that runs across the top of the exhaust manifold (corroded). Coolant temp was coming in around 225 F steady, and fans were kicking on with no trouble.
Kinda suspecting a slipped timing belt... Which is a shame because the rest of the car is fantastic and worth repairing the small issues with it. From what I can see, the car would need at very least:
New plugs, wires, cap/rotor
Oil change (BG 44k/MOA, synth oil, filter)
Transmission drain and fill (BG synth fluid in the 10 gallon box)
Fuel filter
Turbo return lines/gaskets
PCV flame trap kit
Timing belt/water pump service (for peace of mind)
2 cans of seafoam (1/2 can intake/half can oil, 1 can gas tank)
New battery (to replace the non sealed wrong size one in the car now)
Motor mounts (rear, possibly front)
drive shaft rebuild
I offered him $500 for it. He is asking $950 and says his bottom line is $750. Told him if he changes his mind I'll be there with cash in hand. Honestly I think $500 is really pushing it for a possible timing belt being slipped...But it has brand new tires on it and a new(ish) battery. Worse case I can pull the wheels/tires and sell them, then scrap the car for $350-$400....
Sharing the ad. What do you guys think? Worth the time/effort? I'm not afraid to turn the wrenches and do the work, only thing that really scares me though is the possible timing belt issue...
1998 Volvo V70 XC
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Well, i expect the driveshaft to run me about $275-$350 rebuilt locally (I have a shop that does the full workup and does excellent work). The rest of the stuff I'm probably looking at about $700 on the high side of things (tune up parts etc, not including timing belt stuff).
Labor is free if I DIY it all. Going by NADA guide, clean retail is just over $3000 for the car running and driving...Trade in about 1700..Not leaving much meat on the bone honestly if I take it at $500...
Really on the fence honestly. Biggest thing is I'd like to have awd again. However, there is a 95 850 I found with about the same miles for the same price, and it has the 16t, IPD tower brace, koni yellows/IPD springs, BSR stage 3, etc etc on it already...burns a qt of oil every 5k or so... It needs a heater core, battery, new interior, cat converter, rear o2 sensor, and a few other nickle and dime items...Half tempted to spring for that and pick up this 94 850T sedan I found for $400 that needs an AC compressor, and make 1 whole car out of it for the same amount of $... I lose the awd, but I essentially end up with a 95 t5 clone
Labor is free if I DIY it all. Going by NADA guide, clean retail is just over $3000 for the car running and driving...Trade in about 1700..Not leaving much meat on the bone honestly if I take it at $500...
Really on the fence honestly. Biggest thing is I'd like to have awd again. However, there is a 95 850 I found with about the same miles for the same price, and it has the 16t, IPD tower brace, koni yellows/IPD springs, BSR stage 3, etc etc on it already...burns a qt of oil every 5k or so... It needs a heater core, battery, new interior, cat converter, rear o2 sensor, and a few other nickle and dime items...Half tempted to spring for that and pick up this 94 850T sedan I found for $400 that needs an AC compressor, and make 1 whole car out of it for the same amount of $... I lose the awd, but I essentially end up with a 95 t5 clone
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