2.4T Bent Valves

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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 09:07 PM
  #1  
roosterize's Avatar
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Default 2.4T Bent Valves

One year ago I swapped my failed AW55auto with a M56LK manual and have enjoyed smooth shifting ever since. That is until a couple of weeks ago when the timing belt tensioner started complaining and then promptly desintigrated in less than 20 miles. So here I sit with 10 bent exhaust valves and 4 shiny dings in the top of each piston.
My question has to do with the reinstall of the cams: how does one reinstall the cams and get them in the correct position with the crank? All the info and videos I've found suggest that you lock the cams in place before removing. This is fine if they are in the correct position to start with, but what about when they are off rotation? Certainly there is a way to do this accurately. Anybody have any suggestions?

If I can't repair it, I will just sell the whole car for what I have in the tranny swap.

Sean
 
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Old Oct 28, 2013 | 11:06 PM
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I think I tripped and fell and hit my head! I had something similar happen to me. The intructions are here if you use search. It's a fairly nasty job. In my case the parts alone with a good cam lock was about $1300 (Can) using my own labour. IMO a proper camlock is needed to torque down the VVT without moving the cam.

If your cam belt broke you can expect all 20 valves to be bent.If you're lucky , like I was, you won't have to replace any valve guides. My local shop did all teh head work for about $900, including valves re&re the head and new valve seals. Did I mention it was a nasty job but not impossible.

You can also buy a reconditioned head for about $500 + shipping.I can't remember the name of the CO but some ppl here have used it and were satisfied.

Head Removal and Installation, Volvo 850 / S70 Turbo B5234T, B5254T, Head gasket replacement, valve replacement.

My story of woe > https://volvoforums.com/forum/2001-2...-issues-67790/


Mine had the AW55.It had hash shifting at times. The new owner had it checked and there were no codes and no slipping. He went ahead and had the valve body rebuilt with all new solenoids for about $800 and it seems to be running fine now.


Originally Posted by roosterize
One year ago I swapped my failed AW55auto with a M56LK manual and have enjoyed smooth shifting ever since. That is until a couple of weeks ago when the timing belt tensioner started complaining and then promptly desintigrated in less than 20 miles. So here I sit with 10 bent exhaust valves and 4 shiny dings in the top of each piston.
My question has to do with the reinstall of the cams: how does one reinstall the cams and get them in the correct position with the crank? All the info and videos I've found suggest that you lock the cams in place before removing. This is fine if they are in the correct position to start with, but what about when they are off rotation? Certainly there is a way to do this accurately. Anybody have any suggestions?

If I can't repair it, I will just sell the whole car for what I have in the tranny swap.

Sean
 

Last edited by MaxOrbit; Oct 28, 2013 at 11:09 PM.
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 04:45 PM
  #3  
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Originally Posted by roosterize
One year ago I swapped my failed AW55auto with a M56LK manual and have enjoyed smooth shifting ever since. That is until a couple of weeks ago when the timing belt tensioner started complaining and then promptly desintigrated in less than 20 miles. So here I sit with 10 bent exhaust valves and 4 shiny dings in the top of each piston.
My question has to do with the reinstall of the cams: how does one reinstall the cams and get them in the correct position with the crank? All the info and videos I've found suggest that you lock the cams in place before removing. This is fine if they are in the correct position to start with, but what about when they are off rotation? Certainly there is a way to do this accurately. Anybody have any suggestions?

If I can't repair it, I will just sell the whole car for what I have in the tranny swap.

Sean
To do the head job properly you need to line up the crank & cams. The crank should be set to the timing mark on the crank pulley.The cams need to be set using a camlock. If you search on remove head you should find some links or search on replace cam/timing belt.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 06:38 PM
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Sad to read that you lost timing. If you don't mind, how old was the tensioner?

I'm not 100% sure about the timing on the newer motors, but there is a way to align the cams from the back of the motor on the older cars. It may also apply to the newer motors, minus the loading of the VVT on the exhaust cam (front).


 
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