I just bought a 2002 V70 in good condition but when i got it home I couldn't remove the key from the ignition. It will start and turn off but not go to the removal position. I tried wiggling the steering wheel which wasn't locked, then moved the shifter back and forth. I pushed the button "W" next to the shifter no difference. The battery was low so i trickle charged it all night and in the morning it started right up and the key came out very easily... yay! I thought the low battery was the problem and i drove it to work and then several stops on the way home, and when i got there the key was stuck again! So gave up again and hope it will work again tomorrow. Can anyone tell from the description if this is the shifter position or the key mech or a relay? And has anyone put a start button in these older models?

 

I've had a similar experience with my 2000 S40 - what happened there was the shift release button on the back of the **** got stuck in the depressed position which triggered the shift interlock to the key. Wiggled the handle and coaxed the button back out and the key came out. I then checked to make sure the button didn't fail (it was ok) so I sprayed some lubricant to allow the button to move freely and that was that.

 

Your problem is being caused by the cable that runs from the ignition switch/steering column lock to the shifter. When you put the shifter in park - that cable moves and allows the key to return to the completely off position and be removed. The cable is visible under the side of the console (after you remove the cover) Sometimes simply a squirt of wd40 or similar will solve the problem.

To solve - take the side panel off (as shown below) Find the end of the black cable and make sure it moves when you put the shifter back in park. - Spray lubricant to help the inner cable move freely during that process. If not still working you can move the cable manually until you replace or disconnect the cable from both ends eliminating the need for the shifter to be in park for the key to be removed.

 

Thanks for the replies guys! And the diagrams too. So I went out a bit ago to blindly spray some wd 40 in the button and another clue came. The key came right out but the battery was almost dead again after a long charge and driving around town. And there was fast clicking coming from the passenger door. Don't know if its related to the key but both times it got stuck was when the battery was almost dead. And the clicking makes me think that something in the door could be draining the battery or maybe the battery itself is bad?? Anyway ill open that panel and investigate tomorrow if it doesn't rain.

 

how old is the battery? how long was the key stuck in? You can test for a parasitic battery draw or the health of your alternator if you have a multi-meter. With the key out, measure your battery voltage. A charged battery should be in the 12.6V range. A weak or drained battery will be 12.2 or lower. Now start the car and measure battery voltage. It should be 14V or more (but not too high - that's a different issue). You can then throw on some load, AC blower motor, head lights, rear defogger, seat heaters. The voltage should stay over 13V. Now the last test is to turn the car off and measure the current remaining on the battery. your meter needs to be in series with the wiring - which means you either need to disconnect the battery cable and insert the meter into the path or rent/borrow a "loop" meter that clamps around the battery cable (it measures amps by inductance). With key out and everything off as if you were parked for the night, you should see something less than 20mA current draw (not sure of the exact spec here, probably its closer to 10mA). If you see something higher, check for things like vanity lights (glove box?) that may be stuck on

OR... if you battery if older than 4 years, just replace it since you'll being needing to do that anyways.

 

Ok, had a chance to do a little investigating by removing that cover below the shifter. I managed to untrack (accidentally) part of the cable and manipulating it i could get the key out but then the shifter would lock, lol. So I decided to remove the console to get a better view at things but I could not move the shifter to remove the console cause the battery was dead again! So then I had to stop and investigate that, which I will make a new post on. But it looks like it will be easy to sort out when I get the console out.

 

Got the console out and can easily see and get to the cable. I reseated the stationary part i dislodged then sprayed with lithium grease. Working the key back and forth it was working better but still sticking now and then. It looks like it needs adjusting just a little bit to work 100%. The spring is pretty rusty before i sprayed it. I'll keep the console off till i get it fixed.

 

On second look it seems if the spring was a little stronger it would push the cable the 2mm distance to where it should travel. So hopefully my last question will be... If I remove that yellow cap and free this end of the cable, can I remove the spring from that end to replace it?

 

Just to update... I found after prying out that yellow cap/clamp I could easily adjust the cable so no need to replace the spring and I put it all back together and the key comes out every time