Hello all, I'm new here, and I've completed my search of the forum, and haven't quite found the answers I am seeking. Here is what I'm experiencing:

1. Front Passenger door controls non responsive. Can't toggle the locks or operate the window from either Driver or Passenger side door controls. I have read a number of threads that the Drivers Side Door switch is a common problem, but I'm not sure that is what I am experiencing since my driver's side controls all work?

2. Temperature Gauge reads "--F--"

3. AC system blows nice and cold, and the fan turns full speed, but air doesn't come out. Most commonly occurs when cabin temp is similar to outdoor temp (like mid sixty's). It seems like there is a damper within the system that is set to the wrong setting and won't allow the air to blow into the cabin. VERY frustrating. Toggling the manual controls has no effect whatsoever. That damper just will not open up until it's good and ready. Yesterday it happened when there was considerable temperature differential (over 30 degrees, and it was about 100 in the car), so it appears to be getting worse...although perhaps its getting a reading from my non-functional external air temp sensor? (see item 2 above)

4. Stereo console volume **** does not have direct effect on volume control. If I turn it left (down) the volume goes up. I can keep spinning it, and it will go down, after two or three full turns. Volume switches on steering console work fine (thank goodness!)

5. I go through light bulbs for front headlights (low beams) and rear tail lights like Michael Moore eats popcorn in one of his own movies. Usually replace them 3 times a year. I hate doing the upper rear taillight bulbs.

6. Steering wheel position switch / key lockout? Sometimes my car will not start, because the steering wheel is not oriented correctly. I think there is some sort of lockout sensor on the steering column that is going bad. Anyone have a recommended fix or part number?

Any help you guys could provide is very appreciated. THANKS!

BTW< I did find this thread which mirrored some of my own problems, but there was no conclusion to it:
https://volvoforums.com/forum/2001-2...en-cold-68898/

 

"like Michael Moore eats popcorn in one of his own movies"....LOL

I haven't tried to match up every symptom, but search around for "DIM" (Driver Information Module). I just know that when the DIM goes out, you end up with a whole slew of electrical issues like what you're describing.

 

And FWIW, I'd also suggest checking your battery voltage with the car running. It shouldn't be higher than around 14 volts, give or take a couple 1/10ths of a volt maximum. What makes me suggest this is your going through light bulbs (like MM eating popcorn - LOL). Even if the DIM is bad - and that's certainly a good possibility - the worst the DIM can do to light bulbs is to pass through whatever voltage is available, which shouldn't be burning out bulbs any faster than "normal" (which is a lot slower than MM going through a tub of popcorn).

High voltage can play havoc with delicate electronics as well, especially high voltage transient spikes, which might not even show up much on a meter, sadly... you might hear them with the sound system on a "dead source" (like CD or tape, with no CD or tape inserted), as a high-pitched or gravelly whine. An oscilloscope would show it up, but I'd bet you don't have one laying around... I can't say this is anything a modern Volvo is likely to experience, but with that many symptoms, it would sure fit.

 

Well, I'm reading about 13.2 to 13.5 volts pretty consistently with the car running, measured back at the battery though. What a PIA. Why two different nut driver sizes to remove the cover tray?

I went to the local auto salvage yard and pulled a passenger switch module from an 850 of the same vintage. Everything looked the same until I got it home and realized the part on the 850 was about 4" longer. Otherwise identical. Very odd. Even the printed circuit boards inside look the same. Plugged it in and no joy. Plugged in the old one and at least got it click-cick-clicking again. So removing the battery terminals and touching the black and red wires together to reset the computer seems to have partially worked. The original, while still faulty, is atleast getting power again :-)

I found a replacement on e-Bay for $40. We'll see how it works.
Here is the part: http://www.ebay.com/itm/251205115953...witem=&vxp=mtr


NOT to be confused with this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VOLVO-S80-S6...51205115953%26


(see the difference in size?