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My first time here. I've had a look to see if this issue has been addressed before but can't find anything relevant. Apologies if I'm duplicating.
The engine in my 2002 V70XC needed replacing (cylinders out of shape), and I have set about doing it myself. So far so good, albeit a little slowly (I last swapped an engine about 27 years ago - a SAAB 99), and the old engine is out. And I have (hopefully) got a good deal on a second hand engine recommended to me by a local Volvo technician. However, the new block is slightly different to the old one - eg front mount (under main pulley) screw holes are in a different place on the block. The old block is a B5244T3, I can't tell what this one is as it was sprayed when it was refurbished and the block number is obliterated. The new block has three very distinct plates on the exhaust side which hopefully are definitive. I have included a picture of the new block showing these plates.
So any help identifying this block would be great! Many thanks in advance.
And I have (hopefully) got a good deal on a second hand engine recommended to me by a local Volvo technician.
However, the new block is slightly different to the old one - eg front mount (under main pulley) screw holes are in a different place on the block.
I can't tell what this one is as it was sprayed when it was refurbished and the block number is obliterated.
The new block has three very distinct plates on the exhaust side which hopefully are definitive.
What's his commission on the sale?
What did this engine come out of? Ford focus uses the 5 cyl volvo engine in some of their cars. what's the history? If the motor mount holes are in the wrong place - how are you going to bolt the front mount on? And why try?
Sprayed bright silver - what was done to this engine?, what compression ratio? Ground off engine #? Does it come with a head?
I would run away as fast as you can - unless you can get some answers that will make you want to take the risk. It's a lot of work to replace an engine more than once -
By the way, nobody takes the cooling system pipe out - you pull the engine and put it on a shelf to sell - why is the coolant pipe missing? Did this come out of a boat or something weird like that? Not many people "refurbish" these engines - it is very labor intensive and expensive.
Thanks for your reply. You should know I'm having to do this on the very cheap. I live in South Africa, it's been a lousy year for work, and options aren't huge for me. I know it's a risk.
The engine is complete, rotates nicely. The cooling pipe was removed because the previous owner was modifying the exhaust manifold to fit in a Mazda.
The engine number hasn't been ground off, it's been sprayed over.
I have seen this block (with the three plates) on pictures of other Volvo engines, and this one certainly has Volvo stamped all over it - no sign of Ford badging, mods etc. I'm assuming that there will be a correct mount for it somewhere, providing I can identify the block.
did you find the stamping on the exhaust side of the head near #1? If it only says T, that's your iteration. If you know the year of the donor, you can double check by googling "Volvo Modular Engine Wiki" for info on what was new by T#
(Apologies if I'm repeating myself - I posted a reply earlier but it seems to have disappeared)
OK - yes, to your first question.
If it is just the B5234T, it would make the original car a '93-'96 850 (Volvo tech says it comes out of an S60).
However, the old engine is stamped B5244T but is a B5244T3 (sticker on t/belt cover), so perhaps the engine stamp doesn't necessarily show the iterations? Don't know if you can clarify because, also, the 'new' engine has exhaust VVT, which wasn't fitted until '99 (on the B5234T3). According to the wikipedia page the only iteration of the B5234T to have VVT was the B5234T3, and only the T3 and T7 were fitted to S60s (if tech's info is to be trusted), although no VVT on T7?
It is possible that it's an ad hoc block and head pairing
good question about the stamping vs iterations. Note that the Wiki is not always 100% right on some of the details. For the original engine, what do you have in the 6/7 position of your VIN - should be something like 56 or 58...??
VIN says 58 (original engine). The actual car is a 2002 V70XC. It has 315,000 km on the clock and, other than the engine (my fault for letting her overheat) and a leak from the steering rack (which I'm rectifying while the engine is out) is still a really good vehicle with no other issues.
I can only assume the new engine is a post-99 B5234Tsomething since the presence of VVT excludes any version before then (if wikipedia is accurate). I've emailed Volvo Cars in Sweden with the engine number to see if they can help.
so if your replacement engine has VVT on the exhaust, its a 99+ year , sounding like a T3 or later. For those years the 5234Ts were "high pressure turbo" (HP) and the 5244Ts were low pressure (LP). If the turbo is included you can look for a part number or size (HP had the 16Ts and I think the LPs have a 14T). So you're not looking at a like for like swap but I'd be surprised if there are too many external differences. See if you can google and find a write up on a LP to HP swap/conversion.
It took a long time in between other things going on, but the engine is in and running at almost 100%.
However, I am repeatedly getting P0016 on start up. Start up is fine, but idle quickly becomes rhythmically lumpy, a sort of wuh-wuh-wuh. Otherwise performance across the revs is smooth and 'normal' (it's a B5234T3 with 16T, there's definitely more lag), gear changes are smooth etc. If I cancel the MIL while engine is running it doesn't come back, but does on restart (although only 90% of the time, it's not an absolute given).
I have:
1. Reset timing completely (using tool etc), following advice for here and elsewhere: Locked cams in place (inlet cam slot up, exhaust cam slot down), crank lined up, VVT (floating hub, not spring-loaded) turned hard clockwise, good tension between hubs etc. Could not line cam marks up because pulleys were not set on cams as from the factory. However, I did NOT remove VVT (which is on exhaust only), I just set the cam in the right place and turned the VVT hub clockwise to its limit.
2. Cleaned and checked VVT solenoid, new gasket etc.
3. Swapped between cam tone rings from old engine to new as they are different.
4. Ensured CKP and CMP are functioning.
5. Engine has new oil etc.
Am I missing something? The idle is lumpy but Should I do the timing again, and if so, should I take off VVT hub this time (and clean it???)? I'm quite happy to do it (well, reasonably content), but I just want to make sure I'm not missing something else first.