I Just bought a 2007 XC70 with 192000 miles on it. It was an estate sale so do not have a great history. I have a few problems and I just realized Volvo’s are not easy to diagnose or cheap to repair.

problem: when i start the car I get a message DSTC spin control off along with anti-skid temporarily off. As soon as I turn the steering wheel I get anti-skid service required. During this I do have the traction control on right of dash on and the triangle ! Both in orange. Along with this problem I noticed that the car seems to crank quite a bit more than usual to start. Last night I had a complete no start. The car would crank normally but just not start. It did smell of fuel and I did check the shrader valve on the fuel rail ( there was very little pressure just a small squirt) . I nearly killed the battery so I left it for the night and this morning with battery on trickle charge I tried to start it again. I turned the key one time and checked the pressure at the fuel line and it was just a tine drop of fuel. I then turned the key on and off 4 times giving the hum sound under the hood by the headlight time to cycle and tried to start it. It took quite a bit of cranks but it did start. I then proceeded to check the obd2 port with my reader and I could see that live scanning showed 45 psi fuel pressure while the car was running. So far all day every time I turn off the car it restarts.
The big issue here is I only have 1 volvo dealer and he wants to bend me over big to find the issue. Any help would be awesome.
I did remove the clock spring, turned it to check the condition and it actually from center turnes 3-3 1/2 to the left and 3 3/4 to right from center. Seems that the ribbon is stretched. not sure if that helps. Put it all back together and nothing has changed

Oh I dod scan for codes with my obd2 code reader and I have none. That this reader is able to read. I do not have the vida reader

 

Your first step should be to use a scanner that can talk to all the control units in the car.

There will be codes stored related to ABS/DSTC - and those can help point you in the correct direction. Anything else is just a guess.

Abs control units are a common failure. Solder joints crack in the control unit and create all sorts of problems. Mostly false codes - so don't replace wheels sensors if that's what the codes are - unless they test bad. Steering angle sensors are common also - those can be tested with the appropriate scan tool. The ribbon in the clock spring to simply to carry the wiring to the air bag and not part of the angle sensor. So you can have a bad angle sensor with a good clock spring. (although it's all the same part)

A company such as xemodex offers preprogrammed fixed ABS modules. A new Abs module (from Volvo) requires a software download using VIDA to make it work.

Long crank time - First step would be - stage 0 - how old are the spark plugs? I've replaced tested good engine temp sensors to solve long crank time (out of frustration trying to solve that problem) - but only after making sure every other component and sensor was working correctly. For instance there is an outside air temp sensor - that can screw things up. And it's not the sensor that reports the outside temp on the dash. There's 2 air temp sensors, they are the little bumps on the bottom the the outside mirrors, and a good scan tool can get live data from them.

The fuel pump on your car only runs as needed - it spins slower depending on load. There again a good scan tool can measure the fuel pump duty cycle. Too high duty cycle and there are fuel delivery/running problems. The PEM - fuel pump control unit was mounted on the side of the gas tank on some cars - near the rr tire - and if still mounted there in certain corrosive climates can be so corroded that the fuel pump does not work at times. It was moved in later cars to inside the car, under the seat or in the trunk.

 

Update: I was taking the car to the mehanic to get the codes pulled. I had my tpms light come on, so I pulled over and turned off the car and then restarted it. The DSCT showed off like it does before it says anti-skid service. As I pulled away, I turned the wheel about 30 Degrees to the left and to my surprise all service lights went off that were linked to the anti spin or traction control... My traction control was working again. Soon as I needed to turn left and the steering wheel was turned to the 9 OClock position the anti-spin requires service came on. I tried it 4 times and everytime it did the same. I was able to turn it off completely and turn it on with the left turn.
My question is do I need to replace the whole clock spring now or should I replace the ribbon side only. I have DSTC. Ribbon side is $150-$175 vs the whole thing at $500+ and then I have to go get it programmed by the dealer because mine has the DSTC. Dealer wants $300 to program it. Do I even need to get the new one programmed? Im just going by what the dealer is saying.
I never dropped it off to get the codes pulled since I figure it has got to be the clock spring.

 

The clock spring and steering angle sensor are all one part. Probably a 31313083.

No "programming" needed, they come locked into hopefully the correct position with a little screw - Volvo does suggest making sure the clock spring is set correctly - it only turns so far in each direction. Their directions below.

 

I replaced my clock spring with 31313083 from a functioning 07 xc70 and put it in mine. I now get dstc spin control off and anti skid temporarily off. Does this just mean that it now needs to be calibrated? I called volvo and they said that you can not put a used one in because it will not work. Must be brand new and then has to have software installed and then calibrated. Is this true?

 

What codes do you have?

 

Hi, I'm having a similar problem with a 2007 XC70 I just acquired. Traction Control warning light on; scanned and got "000E: Permanent Fault - Steering Wheel angle sensor internal fault".

From my searches it seems like the clock spring needs to be replaced, but I don't know if my car has DSTC or not - how do I figure this out?

Sorry to "hijack" this post - but it seems like the original poster has moved on...

 

Here's what Volvo says about their 0003 code

 

Hoonk, thanks for the info. Based on this, I need to adjust this part, but don't need a new one? Do you agree? It would be great not to have to cough up $400+ for a new part...