Ok I am sure you have been asked this before, but I am going to replace the timing belts on my 2001 xc70 and my 2002 s80. I am replacing everything since I bought these both a year ago.
any last advice b4 I get into it?
- how much anti freeze do I need to drain out since I am replacing water pumps? as not to make a huge mess lol

so any advice would be appreciated, thanks

I have my parts on order, should do this next weekend

 

Always drain the entire system and flush it two or three times with plain water. Refill with original Volvo coolant. I know it's pricey but it is different than the stuff off the shelf. It's also a good chance to replace the radiator. The plastic-aluminum radiators can split open and fail after about ten years. Also replace the utility belt (fan belt, serpentine belt) and replace the radiator hoses every ten years or 100,000 miles. It's cheap insurance.

 

Why are you answering +year old posts?

 

A good chance to replace the radiator? It has nothing to do with a timing belt. Its also a fairly big job and the part isn't cheap... No need to replace it for no reason.

 

My 2004 V70 2.4L non-turbo has VVt (not sure if intake or exhaust or both?). How do I deal with that when changing the timing belt? Do I have to use a cam lock on the back end of the cam shafts? My understanding of the IPD site is that they say that a lock on the front sprockets is not sufficient for the VVT equipped engine.


The YouTube videos I see don't use a camshaft lock either on front or back. Wouldn't the intake cam VVT be locked if the engine was at idle before being turned off?

 

I never lock the cams when doing a timing belt.

 

The normal positions of the cams is "at rest" which means that they are hard against their internal stops. So, when you spin the engine over to TDC and line up all of the marks, the VVT cams are as far right as they can go.

Then you mark everything. I use dots of red paint on the cams to line up with the timing marks. I also mark the head opposite the cam marks which makes it easier to see if either can has moved.

You can rotate the cams to the left which is what happens when the hydraulic VVT engages, it "advances" the cams.

So, when you put on the new timing belt, always make sure that you keep those marks lined up and make sure that both cams are to the right against their stop. Don't turn too hard or you will move the cams.

 

I never understood why people add more marks. The marks that are already on the cams work just fine.

 

Because it makes them easier to see and speeds up the process a bit. Since I've made a fortune in the car business my opinion trumps yours.

 

It doesn't speed up anything.

 

When you say "cams to the right against their stops" do you mean clockwise against their stops as viewed from the front of the engine (i.e., the right or passenger side of a left-hand drive car?


I've had this 2004 V70 from new in Sept 2003 so it has been in service for 11 years, but only driven carefully with 59,000 miles on the odo. Both the serpentine belt and the cam belt are original, but look fine to my eye. Can I wait several more years to change them or could one of them (or the idlers or tensioners) fail at any time? I see that the timing belt and tensioners of the California PZEV version is 'warranted' for 15 years or 150,000 miles, but unfortunately mine is the standard 2.4L non-turbo (engine code 61) and the owner's manual specifies 10 years time limit for the cam timing belt. Is it really necessary to change it now given the low mileage?

 

I would change it. It isn't the belt that usually fails. It's the idler or tensioner. Of course, you can roll the dice if you want. I would not go over 12 years though.

 

Do the PZEV models (I think this is engine vin code 59, but I'm not sure) with the 15-year change time limit have heavier duty belt, or idler and tensioner? Or is it that the PZEV model has say softer valve springs or such a different fuel map that the time to failure is that much longer?


The way I have driven this car is maybe once a year I stomp on the accelerator to maneuver on a freeway, otherwise it never goes above 3000 or 3500 rpms. Wouldn't that affect the status of the belts, idlers and tensioners?

 

Good question. I don't know if they use a different belt or why they have a longer interval.

You can chance it if you want. As long as you're aware that pushing the limit could cost thousands extra. If you're changing it yourself, it isn't worth the risk to save $200 now.

 

A good timing belt kit is $90.

 

I'm talking dealer prices, since I use dealer parts. Sure, you can also get a cheap one.