01 timing belt change
Thread Starter
|
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 35
From: SW, WA
01 timing belt change
All,
I know I asked this before, but I cannot find the answer (guess I should have printed it out). ANyway, I'm changing the timing belt, serpentine belt and all pulleys on the wife's 01 XC-70 this coming weekend. I did the same job on my son's 95 850 this summer and with the instructions I have, it was straightforward and simple.
Is it the same procedure on the 01 XC70 as it is on the 95 850? I know about the difference in the tensioners for the timing belt and how to set it, but is there anything else I need to be aware of. My main concern is that the 850 used cutouts on the upper timing belt cover to help align the timing marks on the cams. From what I can see, the timing belt cover on the XC 70 is different. How are the cams aligned
If anyone has any tips or specific instructions on how to do the belts on an 01 and up XC 70 I would appreciate it.
Glenn
I know I asked this before, but I cannot find the answer (guess I should have printed it out). ANyway, I'm changing the timing belt, serpentine belt and all pulleys on the wife's 01 XC-70 this coming weekend. I did the same job on my son's 95 850 this summer and with the instructions I have, it was straightforward and simple.
Is it the same procedure on the 01 XC70 as it is on the 95 850? I know about the difference in the tensioners for the timing belt and how to set it, but is there anything else I need to be aware of. My main concern is that the 850 used cutouts on the upper timing belt cover to help align the timing marks on the cams. From what I can see, the timing belt cover on the XC 70 is different. How are the cams aligned
If anyone has any tips or specific instructions on how to do the belts on an 01 and up XC 70 I would appreciate it.
Glenn
Administrator
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 36,349
Likes: 45
From: Orlando, Florida
RE: 01 timing belt change
The timing marks are straight up (12:00 position) on the upper engine cover.
Mark the pulleys and then make a refrence mark on the Cam cover and VVT Valve bolted to the cam cover.
Make sure all marks line up when done.
The VVT is sometimes spring loaded and you will need to hold it into position when you install the belt.
The crank mark is very hard to see because of the manual tensioner. Look closely and carefully.
Most of the crank pulleys have 2 marks and you need to line the one on the engine up between the 2 on the pulley (crank).
Other than that everything else should be the same.
Mark the pulleys and then make a refrence mark on the Cam cover and VVT Valve bolted to the cam cover.
Make sure all marks line up when done.
The VVT is sometimes spring loaded and you will need to hold it into position when you install the belt.
The crank mark is very hard to see because of the manual tensioner. Look closely and carefully.
Most of the crank pulleys have 2 marks and you need to line the one on the engine up between the 2 on the pulley (crank).
Other than that everything else should be the same.
Thread Starter
|
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 35
From: SW, WA
RE: 01 timing belt change
Hi Tech,
Thanks for telling me about the timing mark cutouts on the upper cover being at the 12:00 position. I had to look twice to see them, but I did find them. Looking at my cam pulleys, they have stamped marks on them just like the 850 cam pulleys did.
Sowhat you are saying is I just need to line up the stamped markson the cam pulleys with the 12:00 cutout marks on the upper timing cover and then check the to see if the mark on the engine lines up between the two crank pulley marks. Then reference the VVT position and proceed as normal. Please let me know if I have the right idea.
Thanks tech,
Glenn
Thanks for telling me about the timing mark cutouts on the upper cover being at the 12:00 position. I had to look twice to see them, but I did find them. Looking at my cam pulleys, they have stamped marks on them just like the 850 cam pulleys did.
Sowhat you are saying is I just need to line up the stamped markson the cam pulleys with the 12:00 cutout marks on the upper timing cover and then check the to see if the mark on the engine lines up between the two crank pulley marks. Then reference the VVT position and proceed as normal. Please let me know if I have the right idea.
Thanks tech,
Glenn
Thread Starter
|
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 35
From: SW, WA
RE: 01 timing belt change
Tech,
Well, I've got it all back together for the most part. I still have to fill it with coolant and button up a few plastic pieces but I ran out of light. The job waspretty simple and your instructions made it clear and easier than I expected. After putting on the new belt and making sure it was tight, I set the tensioner so thepointer is in the center of the window (just like the old one). Then, I rotated it by had twice and all the marks lined up just like they should. For good measure, I had my son rotate it through about 6 more times while I watched everything. All the new pulleys are tight and quiet, and even the serpentine belt and new pulleys were easy to install
In short, the tensioner moves freely, and the engine rotates free with no binding and the marks all line up. So tomorrow I will fill it with coolant and fire it up to check for leaks.
Many thanks again for the help and suggestions,
Glenn
Well, I've got it all back together for the most part. I still have to fill it with coolant and button up a few plastic pieces but I ran out of light. The job waspretty simple and your instructions made it clear and easier than I expected. After putting on the new belt and making sure it was tight, I set the tensioner so thepointer is in the center of the window (just like the old one). Then, I rotated it by had twice and all the marks lined up just like they should. For good measure, I had my son rotate it through about 6 more times while I watched everything. All the new pulleys are tight and quiet, and even the serpentine belt and new pulleys were easy to install
In short, the tensioner moves freely, and the engine rotates free with no binding and the marks all line up. So tomorrow I will fill it with coolant and fire it up to check for leaks.
Many thanks again for the help and suggestions,
Glenn
Thread Starter
|
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 35
From: SW, WA
RE: 01 timing belt change
As promised, here are the final results. I added all the fluids, and lit the car off. Ran smooth as silk, so I took it off the jacks, and test drove it. No problems whatsoever. Got back home, buttoned it all up,had a well deserved beer or two, and waited for the Mrs. to get home from work When she got home I tossed her the keys to her carand let her take it for a spin. End result, she says it runs like a new car and she is very pleased.
Thanks again Tech for the advice and tips.
Glenn
Thanks again Tech for the advice and tips.
Glenn
Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
RE: 01 timing belt change
ORIGINAL: Psaboic
As promised, here are the final results. I added all the fluids, and lit the car off. Ran smooth as silk, so I took it off the jacks, and test drove it. No problems whatsoever. Got back home, buttoned it all up,had a well deserved beer or two, and waited for the Mrs. to get home from work When she got home I tossed her the keys to her carand let her take it for a spin. End result, she says it runs like a new car and she is very pleased.
Thanks again Tech for the advice and tips.
Glenn
As promised, here are the final results. I added all the fluids, and lit the car off. Ran smooth as silk, so I took it off the jacks, and test drove it. No problems whatsoever. Got back home, buttoned it all up,had a well deserved beer or two, and waited for the Mrs. to get home from work When she got home I tossed her the keys to her carand let her take it for a spin. End result, she says it runs like a new car and she is very pleased.
Thanks again Tech for the advice and tips.
Glenn
it is encouraging to hear about your success.
i am going to tackle this job soon on my 2000 xc.
any tips?
what parts did you replace?
did you replace the water pump?
any special tools needed?
where did you purchase parts?
i have consulted vadis and there is a special tool required for the tensioner (tensioners maybe different between 2000 and 2001) but i am sure i can work around this.
any insight is greatly appreciated.
Thread Starter
|
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 35
From: SW, WA
RE: 01 timing belt change
Mrscullini,
As far as waht parts I replaced, I replaed the timing belt, belt tensioner, and idler pulley. I also replaced the serpentine belt, serpentine belt tensioner, serpentine belt idler pulley, water pump, and coolant. The water pump was probably ok, but since I had the car torn down anyway, I went ahead and changed it.
As far as tips, the biggest thing is either take pictures or draw how the belts are routed before you remove them, leave plenty of time so you are not rushed to finish the job, and ALWAYS check and re-check the timing marks during the job to make sure everything stays in place. Also, rotate the engine by hand at least through 2 complete firing cycles before you actually start it. THat way you will make sure nothing is binding.
The only special tools I needed were a 30mm socket for the big nut on the crank pulley (to manually turn the motor over and align the timing marks) and a set of T-10 through T-45 Torx bits for all the nuts and bolts.
Hope this helps. Tech is also a great source of info.
Glenn
As far as waht parts I replaced, I replaed the timing belt, belt tensioner, and idler pulley. I also replaced the serpentine belt, serpentine belt tensioner, serpentine belt idler pulley, water pump, and coolant. The water pump was probably ok, but since I had the car torn down anyway, I went ahead and changed it.
As far as tips, the biggest thing is either take pictures or draw how the belts are routed before you remove them, leave plenty of time so you are not rushed to finish the job, and ALWAYS check and re-check the timing marks during the job to make sure everything stays in place. Also, rotate the engine by hand at least through 2 complete firing cycles before you actually start it. THat way you will make sure nothing is binding.
The only special tools I needed were a 30mm socket for the big nut on the crank pulley (to manually turn the motor over and align the timing marks) and a set of T-10 through T-45 Torx bits for all the nuts and bolts.
Hope this helps. Tech is also a great source of info.
Glenn
Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
RE: 01 timing belt change
ORIGINAL: Psaboic
Mrscullini,
As far as waht parts I replaced, I replaed the timing belt, belt tensioner, and idler pulley. I also replaced the serpentine belt, serpentine belt tensioner, serpentine belt idler pulley, water pump, and coolant. The water pump was probably ok, but since I had the car torn down anyway, I went ahead and changed it.
As far as tips, the biggest thing is either take pictures or draw how the belts are routed before you remove them, leave plenty of time so you are not rushed to finish the job, and ALWAYS check and re-check the timing marks during the job to make sure everything stays in place. Also, rotate the engine by hand at least through 2 complete firing cycles before you actually start it. THat way you will make sure nothing is binding.
The only special tools I needed were a 30mm socket for the big nut on the crank pulley (to manually turn the motor over and align the timing marks) and a set of T-10 through T-45 Torx bits for all the nuts and bolts.
Hope this helps. Tech is also a great source of info.
Glenn
Mrscullini,
As far as waht parts I replaced, I replaed the timing belt, belt tensioner, and idler pulley. I also replaced the serpentine belt, serpentine belt tensioner, serpentine belt idler pulley, water pump, and coolant. The water pump was probably ok, but since I had the car torn down anyway, I went ahead and changed it.
As far as tips, the biggest thing is either take pictures or draw how the belts are routed before you remove them, leave plenty of time so you are not rushed to finish the job, and ALWAYS check and re-check the timing marks during the job to make sure everything stays in place. Also, rotate the engine by hand at least through 2 complete firing cycles before you actually start it. THat way you will make sure nothing is binding.
The only special tools I needed were a 30mm socket for the big nut on the crank pulley (to manually turn the motor over and align the timing marks) and a set of T-10 through T-45 Torx bits for all the nuts and bolts.
Hope this helps. Tech is also a great source of info.
Glenn
thanks for the info.
did you remove the plugs before rotating the motor or did the motor turn easily through the compression stroke?
thanks again.
john
Thread Starter
|
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,564
Likes: 35
From: SW, WA
RE: 01 timing belt change
John,
I removed the plugs (I was going to change them anyway). If you are not going to change the plugs you will at the very least have to loosen them up, as the compression was too much to let the engine turn through it easily. Also, be sure you mark where the plug wires go so you don't get them mixed up when you re-assemble.
Forgot to mention I got the parts at FCP Groton, and Egerman parts (both on-line). Autohaus Az is aslo pretty good.
Glenn
I removed the plugs (I was going to change them anyway). If you are not going to change the plugs you will at the very least have to loosen them up, as the compression was too much to let the engine turn through it easily. Also, be sure you mark where the plug wires go so you don't get them mixed up when you re-assemble.
Forgot to mention I got the parts at FCP Groton, and Egerman parts (both on-line). Autohaus Az is aslo pretty good.
Glenn
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
