I'm a car detailer in SoCal and know (almost) all the tricks and tips. If you have a question, just ask.

If your headlights are yellowish/hazy looking, use a light compound like Meguiars Ultimate Compound to get it off, then use a plastic polish like Meguiars Plastix.

Can you tell I like Meguiars products?

 

Seeing no one looks in this forum section, I'll humor you with some questions I would actually like some answers to.
I have two, Meguiars products: Cleaner wax, and the deep crystal carnauba wax. I use a spongy wax application pad and have already applied the cleaner wax. Now last time I applied the carnauba wax, I applied it generously and had and extremely difficult time removing the swirls and dark haze that can only be seen if looking directly at the spot(not from an angle). I have read that what I am doing is no good and that I should apply very lightly. I used both a Viking product microfiber towel and a Viking product special wax removing cloth that is soft and has a rough suede like feel, don't know the name. But I have also tried applying the wax very lightly, not pressing hard and applying almost nothing, but it was no better. Still has the haze (of course I tried that right after I removed my thick wax job, so that may be why it was no better.) So, whats up?

Thanks...

 

Here's my advice: Wash the car with Dawn dish soap. This is the only time I ever advise mixing your kitchen with your car (except for Mr. Clean Eraser sponges, those things are SWEEEET!!) Washing with Dawn will strip all the old wax, and you can start anew. If you're still seeing swirl marks, use Meguiars Ultimate Compound with a microfiber pad (can be bought on the cheap at Target or 99 cent stores. Keep the pad slightly moist as well, I mist it every third time I put more compound on the pad. DO NOT use a dual action power buffer, as that is simply an invite for more swirl marks. Go old skool and do it by hand. Once you're satisfied with the paint, depending on the car color, use Meguiars NXT Gen 2.0 wax or Mirror Glaze #6. NXT is awesome on silver, black and other dark paints, Mirror Glaze #6 is great for red, white and lighter hues.

CONSERVATIVELY apply wax, it is a common misconception that you've gotta pile the stuff on. When the wax has been applied and is cured, you should just barely be able to see it. If you've got a thick white haze, you're using wayyyy too much. Be sure it is done out of direct sunlight, and the surface it's being applied to is cool to the touch, as hot surfaces and direct sunlight will cause the wax to react inappropriately, as that's a common reason for it being difficult to remove. Do the whole car at once, start like on your left front quarter panel. Give the wax plenty of time to set up properly, and do the "finger swipe" test...just run your finger over what you think is cured wax, and if it comes off and leaves a finger streak in the rest of the wax on the car, it's ready to be buffed off. I say do the whole car at once, take a smoke break or something then go back and do the whole car. Have several microfibers on hand when removing the hazy wax, 'cause when it builds up on the cloth is basically just re-applies it to the car.

Ultimate Compound is also fantastic at removing surface scratches, just go over it several times lightly and let the product do the work. It's all too often I see guys pressing with all their might against to surface, and that's only gonna create dull spots and deep swirls. Ultimate Compound can also be used to polish chrome, remove water spots from wheels, glass or paint. It's great stuff.

Hope this helps Burn, and if I wasn't specific enough, just get back to me!!!!

 

Here's a few cars I've done recently:

 

Mine is bright red, and I have used dawn before to strip all the wax. Have you used clay bars before? Being red, the paint is a little oxidized in areas, giving that spotty white hazy look. I'm guessing that Ultimate Compound would cure that. So you would apply the mirror glaze too? Two cleaner compound seems a little harsh on the paint to me since I already used cleaner wax before. Can you overuse cleaner wax?

 

Clay bars: YES!! They are fantastic at smoothing the paint down before a coat of wax. Be sure you use some "qwick detailier" style product to lube the surface of the vehicle, and for Pete's sake...DON'T DROP IT!!!
Ultimate Compound: YES!! Try it on your oxidation, I was able to bring back the bright red of a shell on an old dually a month or so ago, and the owner really thought I shot fresh paint on it. UC is a miracle solution.
Cleaner wax: NO, can't overuse it. It has a very, very light cleaning agent to it, so you'd have to be the monkey who rubs in one spot for a long time with too much pressure to have that make an impact.

Based on what we've discussed...
Strip any old wax you've got now.
If paint feels rough to the touch on the back of your fingers, clay it. Pulls out any crap that has adhered to paint. You'll even see some of the paint coloc on clay, this is normal. Be sure to knead clay often.
Use UC all over vehicle, with extra attention to spots that need it ALSO...wipe off excess UC like you would buff off dry wax.
Mirror Glaze #6 wax. Apply and buff off, and remember, use sparingly.

Bueno Suerte!!!!

I'll be looking for photos soon here!!!

(now off to go detail my aunts RAV4)

 

How do I take care of my leather seats, dashboard, and steering wheel? I live in Phoenix, where cars can get to 180* F in the summer, interior temperature and I need to take care of these nice black leather seats in my S70 GLS. Any advice? For leather products I've dealt with in the past, I've used saddle soap on everything except shoes. Is this a bad idea in a car?