My 2006 Volvo v50 giving me fits again. Starter engages only part way and happens as it gets cold. Unpredictable and sporadic. New battery. I think it is the alarm system battery that is draining primary. Primary only showing 12.1 volts after parked awhile in cold.

a mechanic lost my owners manual....I would like to remove fuse for alarm circuit. Anyone know which fuse?

see pic

Andy

 

You can download the manual from Volvo

 

I found the fuse for the car alarm and removed it. Still, I will park the car and batteryshows 12.5 volts and after several hours it is down to 12.1 volt. The battery is about a year old. The car either starts or it will seem to not engage start completely. I think the rechargeable battery in the car alarm is draining the battery or the starter is just shot. A quote for a new starter was $650. I can install a starter in my Chevy or ford pickup for less then $100 by myself in an hour. THAT exemplifies what I do not like about the Volvo....you cannot easily troubleshoot or fix them. This car has got to go!

 

a few thoughts. Volvo publishes owners manuals online at https://www.volvocars.com/us/own/own...owners-manuals

If your battery is draining over time, continue to follow the process for determining the parasitic draw by putting a VOM to measure current draw and start pulling fuses. Best to check the normal current draw but my guess it'd be in the 20mA range with the key off. A normal 80% charge battery is 12.6V or so, under 12.2V and you get your bad behavior... Could also be the battery has been weakened by the constant drain/charge - plus I'd check the alternator output. Once you start the car, it should be putting out 13.5V or more even with a moderate load (like headlights on, rear defog on, AC blower on.)

 

This morning early started up just fine. Parked until about 2:00 pm (cold) started up just fine. Tried to start at 4:30 pm will not start, starter sounds half powered.

Alarm system model service light coming up again. I am going to remove he right front wheel,remove the fender surround, find that #%!^^ module and remove it entirely. I am sick and tired of this "parasitic drain" for a car I would be almost happy if someone stole. First and LAST Volvo I will ever drive!

 

mt6197 I have a clamp on meter and show about 0.5 amp draw with car off on main battery lead to primary panel. So, would you start checking the primary fuses (bolt on 60 amp) in the box under the hood, or the smaller fuses in the panel under the glove compartment? There are over 80 individual fuses in the box under the glove box. There are over 40 fuses in the primary fuse panel. Is there a suggestion to narrow it down? I am pretty certain that alarm module is part of the problem, at least, as it always flashes the warning in the winter (colder) seasons. I found the manual on line and printed off fuse diagrams, so that is good to have.
Thanks for any assistance.

 

How did you get the car started? Was the battery too weak and you had to jump start the car (with an additional battery)?

With modern cars it's almost impossible to track down a drain on a battery. The many modules continue to draw current for a while after leaving the car. Then if you open a door, turn a key, or gaze at the sky in frustration or amazement- another module wakes up - and hey - there's a drain on the system.

I would look for things like a weak bad (new) battery, or a poor connection/voltage drop somewhere. I have replaced many alarm modules in the 01-07 cars for battery related problems - but did not see any bad alarm modules in your series volvo (v40-v50-c70 etc.) in the years until 2018. So it's possible but I can't say I have seen it.

But if you go looking for the alarm module - look under the cowl , in the RF near the windshield -

 

Okay, so I just checked the voltage and current a couple of hours later. The voltage has come UP to 12.3 and the current drain has dropped to 0.40 amp. I will have to check it again in the morning. I had to shuttle home to get another car with my wife. Good thing we have a 4 runner, and older chevy cheyenne pickup, an older Ford Ranger pickup, and the volvo. I have discovered as I age that redundency is a good thing!!

Apparently something is draining the battery heavily when the engine is initially turned off (hot), battery at 12.1 v, current at 0.5 amp. Then as the hours go by the battery regains/recovers as the current drain drops off. What could it be? All I can think is that alarm module. Does anyone know what fuse it is connected? The manual shows number 56 is a 10 amp for "Remote control module, siren control module" I removed taht fuse a couple of days ago...no change.

 

Test your alarm, roll drivers window down, close and lock the car, wait 10 seconds, pretend to break drivers window and open the drivers door from the inside - does the alarm sound and lights flash?

 

hoonk, tried your advice. Lights flash...no alarm.

I cannot find that module under the cowling on your picture. Unless it is inside the cockpit, will look some more, I think it must be in front of the wheel on the passengers side. BAtter about 12.2 this AM and still drawing about 0.4 amps.

 

Then the module might be bad - and you are looking for something like this -

https://www.ebay.com/i/253780534004?...caAuTxEALw_wcB

 

Would it be possible to just "disable/disconnect/remove" this module. I do not need an alarm system on a 14 year old car with 200.000 miles?
Do you know what fuse this is powered under? I will randomly start test all the 80 + fuses until I find what is powering this unnecessary headache. The car started fine after sitting all night. It is just when the engine is still warm, and within several hours that the battery is overstrained.

 

Found the siren module and removed it. Still seemed to be a current draw until I removed fuse 51 “Additional heater for the passenger compartment, AWD, fuel filter relay, heating”. So I removed siren, see picas well as fuse 51 and 56. Will see what happens....

 

Well, it seems better on starting but the real test will be when the weather gets cold again. When I turn off the engine and check current drain it is still quite Hugh, like 1-2 amps but then quickly goes to 0.40 amp. I guess the on board computer, clock etc arealways drawing something. Just not sure this is reasonable. See pic.

 

Modern cars electrical systems can stay awake pulling current for awhile. Depending on the car some systems can be 5-10 minutes before going to sleep/shut down. Open hood latches can cause draw.
Using an amp clamp on the battery with the hood open you should latch the hood latch/latches. Key out of the car. let the car sit undisturbed for 5-10 minutes and then check the draw.
Also in your picture you have your amp clamp on one wire but there are other wires coming off of the battery there. Ideal location in this case for the clamp would be on the part coming off of the battery post so you get a reading of everything coming out of the battery.