Ok, so there is a lot of debate on how to go about this procedure. Yes there are several different way to go about the job. However, I am going to give a general overview how to for all years and models. This is the ways I would do the job. For speed, efficiency, and reliability. I have never had a comeback doing it this way. I have done close to 200 of these jobs on covering all the years and models.

To start things off.

Diagnosing a clogged or due for replacement flame trap: With the engine at operating temperature, pull the dipstick out about 1/4 the way. Take a light and shine it perpendicularly across the opening. If you see "steam" or "smoke" and smell a foul oily odor it is 99.99% of the time a clogged flame trap system.

To begin with the 850 NA (naturally aspired) on some years had an EGR valve. It is a 32 MM hex to get the pipe off.

On the turbo versions of the 850s, everything is slightly different. You will see that and everything goes about the same. Just have to remove more intake hoses.

The V70s are the same as the S70 and S60. The S80 is again slightly different.

Keep in mind that mid year 1999 and up came the ETM (electronic throttle modules) You MUST take care not to use any solvents in or around these. use a solvent covered rag and scrub them by hand while holding the throttle plate open.

Pre 1999 models has the drive by cable set-ups these are ok to use spray solvents if you choose.

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REMOVE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE

Remove all intake hoses or turbo hoses that go to the intake. I use a 7mm 1/4 drive socket on a 1/4 adapter to use with my impact driver.

Disconnect the fan and rearrange the wiring harness to get it out of your way. You will them need a T-25 or T-27 torx and in some cases a 10MM socket to remove the bolts that are under the radiator support cover. Getting the fan out after that is self explanatory.

Remove dip stick. Some intakes has the mounting pad on the top, some on the bottom. It is always however toward the front of the intake.

Remove spark plug cover (the bigger main piece) and fuel rail cover. T27 is the torx size.

Disconnect the fuel line. Some modes use a pipe fitting, some use a quick disconnect. Located in several places. On S80 it is under the intake manifold.

remove the two 10mm bolts holding the fuel rail. Take a small pry bar and very carefully wiggle the injectors out of the intake. Afterward lay assembly over by the air box location.

Take your time now and remove the vacuum hoses going to the intake. On 850s, remove only what you have to.

Remove any other connectors that would limit movement of the intake manifold. This is usually only a couple.

remove top PCV hose at the top of the engine.

On 850s is you haven't already remove the throttle cable at the linkage.

For the intake bolts themselves I use a special 10mm 1/4 drive flex head socket (they cost about $70) and an extension. Remove only the top bolts and loosen the bottom ones enough to slide the intake up and out.

On the S and V series there is a banjo bolt. It is a 17mm hex. It is easiest to loosen it before the intake bolts and them take it off after you lift the intake up. On some engines there is a intake support underneath size is 12mm hex. One bolt for intake, two for block. Most pre '99 engines I just tilt the intake in the engine bay out of the way. On engines with a ETM I remove them to clean the throttle body.

The flame trap is the black box with 1-4 hoses coming out of it. Remove the hoses. It is two bolts on ither side holding it on (10mm hex) box just prys off after that.

The holes in the block are proabbly almost block up. Take a small screy driver and get the gunk out. Spray some solvent in the holes and let it sit while you clean the throttle body. After some time take a rag and wipe the rest out, repeat as necessary.

Put it all back together as you took it apart (replacing with new parts as needed) For the banjo bolt its a PITA I know, but it does go back on.

On 850s, clean the intake valve or replace. It is located near the throttle body on the intake hose.

I replace any torn or ripped vacuum hoses with BMW smog hose (silicone hose)

On the hoses for the flame trap I use zip ties, and or hose clamps.

I use vasoline on the fuel injector o-rings when putting the rail back on.

When you start the engine for the first time afterward, Idle the engine for 30 minutes with the dipstick out 1/4 way to allow the solvent vapors to vent.

I like changing the oil afterward, but no necessary.

I will be updating this with some more pictures in a little while.

Bellow are the only tools I use for the V and S models. >>>>>>>