Immobiliser
Hi Everyone
My first post. Having a problem with my S60 D5. About a month ago, after a 5-minute journey and a further 45-minute delay on return to car, it refused to start, turned over but didn't fire. Probable fuel pump I diagnosed.
As I was going offshore that day I had it taken to a garage for repair. Following day the garage told my wife that it was a communication problem between the key-fob (keyless system) and that they could do nothing. My wife tried to start using the 2nd key with no joy, spoke to an auto-electrician I know he advised that they could do nothing Main Dealer was the only option, my heart sank at the thought of the bill.
As the car need transporting to the dealership, I organised and my wife met him at the garage with the keys. Guy switches ignition on to undo steering lock, it starts and it continued to start. Cancelled the dealership visit until I came home.
Hooked up my OBDII (I'm not hugely experienced using them) found, Keyless DTCs, erased them, started the car multiple times and patted myself on the head!
You will not be surprised to learn that it's happened again and even with no faults showing as DTCs, it continues to not start - HELP!
My first post. Having a problem with my S60 D5. About a month ago, after a 5-minute journey and a further 45-minute delay on return to car, it refused to start, turned over but didn't fire. Probable fuel pump I diagnosed.
As I was going offshore that day I had it taken to a garage for repair. Following day the garage told my wife that it was a communication problem between the key-fob (keyless system) and that they could do nothing. My wife tried to start using the 2nd key with no joy, spoke to an auto-electrician I know he advised that they could do nothing Main Dealer was the only option, my heart sank at the thought of the bill.
As the car need transporting to the dealership, I organised and my wife met him at the garage with the keys. Guy switches ignition on to undo steering lock, it starts and it continued to start. Cancelled the dealership visit until I came home.
Hooked up my OBDII (I'm not hugely experienced using them) found, Keyless DTCs, erased them, started the car multiple times and patted myself on the head!
You will not be surprised to learn that it's happened again and even with no faults showing as DTCs, it continues to not start - HELP!
Sorry bit lost on this site right now! It's a 2011 S60 D5, thank you.
edit: I now know that erasing DTCs does not fix the fault! But it does ensure there are no fault codes to refer to ... duh!
edit: I now know that erasing DTCs does not fix the fault! But it does ensure there are no fault codes to refer to ... duh!
Last edited by Captain Scarlett; Sep 18, 2020 at 12:16 PM.
Do you have to put the key in the slot to attempt to start the car, or can you leave it in your pocket? If you have to use the slot, I have replaced some of those ignition switches, (the slot you put the key in) they become erratic and don't send power to the starter. (actually they send a start signal to the CEM)
I have no experience with Volvo's diesel however - they are not sold in the US. From my experience with older diesels they have been very picky - any sort of fuel leak creates starting and running problems. Volvo used a VW diesel engine back in 80's.
Hi Hoonk, thanks for your help. It's a proximity-type key, I can keep it in my pocket. Like someone else on here I didn't realise that I was on the US site but I guess the receivers are the same on petrol or diesel powered units? I'm getting power to the starter, it just doesn't start. Would I be right in assuming that the receiver for the keyless system is in the same place as the keyed system, just a different type of receiver?
Really grateful for your help mate, thank you.
Really grateful for your help mate, thank you.
Additionally, it was happening sporadically, try it a couple of days later and vroom, off it went but happening more often now and in fact been 4 days and not starting, which tends to support your statement that they become very erratic, I don't know, a poor/dry connection cause resistance to spike? Any way of testing the unit? Had a look online and they're about $200 which I don't mind if it's going to fix it! Thanks again.
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