MAF Sensor Cleaning...
#1
MAF Sensor Cleaning...
I read somewhere that someone suggest that people clean their MAF every once in a while. So I went and picked up some MAF cleaner and went at it.
Part of the instructions of the cleaner that I have state that the cleaner should NOT be used on Karman-Vortex MAF's. They say they are used on Toyota Supra Turbo, Mitsubishi and most Lexus'. How are we suppose to know if we have that kind of MAF?
Also, they claim that I wll gain 4 to 10 HP at the wheels. I assume they mean re-cop 4 to 10 HP.
I guess my question is if anyone believes that cleaning the MAF will extend it's life???
Part of the instructions of the cleaner that I have state that the cleaner should NOT be used on Karman-Vortex MAF's. They say they are used on Toyota Supra Turbo, Mitsubishi and most Lexus'. How are we suppose to know if we have that kind of MAF?
Also, they claim that I wll gain 4 to 10 HP at the wheels. I assume they mean re-cop 4 to 10 HP.
I guess my question is if anyone believes that cleaning the MAF will extend it's life???
#2
Cleaning MAF should only be done with TBI cleaner, never carb cleaner according to several Volvo and Ford garage service centers I have used. Carb cleaner will damage a MAF according to the mechs. Just my understanding. I have used it on all my vehicles. Mechanics tell me carb cleaner will damage the sensor wire. FYI.
1956 Ford Crown Victoria
1998 C70, 2.3 HPT
2000 Lincoln LS
2002 F150 Supercrew Lariet, 5.4L
1956 Ford Crown Victoria
1998 C70, 2.3 HPT
2000 Lincoln LS
2002 F150 Supercrew Lariet, 5.4L
#3
CRC actually makes a product specifically for the AMM/MAF and electronic components. It's $10 a can. Carb cleaner is $1 a can...but don't be tempted as it's a no-no. Frankly, most TBI/Injector cleaner has the same components (perhaps in smaller quantities) as carb cleaner. What does work and is reasonably cheap, is aerosol brake cleaner. We've used it for 20+ years.
Bosch LH2.2 and 2.4 have a burn off circuit. Every single time you turn the key off, the sensor is heated and contaminants are burned off. In theory at least. In practice...after 15 -25 years, it could use some help. Still...it isn't something recommended every time you change oil.
Gain HP? Hmmm...that sort of claim only works for folks who think a cone filter under the hood is a cold air intake. As you suspect Robert, perhaps you MAY recoup a few ponies...but that's it.
Bosch LH2.2 and 2.4 have a burn off circuit. Every single time you turn the key off, the sensor is heated and contaminants are burned off. In theory at least. In practice...after 15 -25 years, it could use some help. Still...it isn't something recommended every time you change oil.
Gain HP? Hmmm...that sort of claim only works for folks who think a cone filter under the hood is a cold air intake. As you suspect Robert, perhaps you MAY recoup a few ponies...but that's it.
#5
Volvo used a hot wire AMM. Newer MAF's generally use a film material. I've seen the wire type break from a direct hit of aerosol cleaner. Given the delicacy of these old AMM's, I couldn't recommend touching it with anything...and it is the only portion susceptible to grime. Most rubbing alcohol is ~30% water...another reason I would be uncomfortable. There is a more expensive variety that's 90% alcohol...the type used in cleaning injection sites in a medical setting...that might be ok. Honestly though, I'm not convinced AMM cleaning is a periodic maintenance thing. One of those "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" kind of things. If your air filter is good and the plumbing to the AMM is spot on and the downstream screen is in place (I always remove the upstream one) the AMM should stay pretty darn clean.
#6
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